Has anyone tried to do the 3GEN MOD and put the battery up on the fender and swap the air filter to the front for forced cooler air?????

Be careful. For every 10*F drop from 100-140*F range of IAT temp there is roughly a 1 MPG loss. This is daily driver numbers and rule of thumb.

We've talked about this before.  Diesels fire on HEAT from compression.  CAIs are pretty silly given that the charge air goes though a HEATED water jacketed intake. 

I think it's a good point about the water entrance through the hood opening.  Weather stripping makes a lot of sense to me. 

Be careful. For every 10*F drop from 100-140*F range of IAT temp there is roughly a 1 MPG loss. This is daily driver numbers and rule of thumb.

  well your probably right about 2nd gen cause the ECM gonna retard timing and increase fuel delivery to compensate for the cooler more dense air...DANG.... 

SAM_2362.JPGSAM_2363.JPGSAM_2364.JPGSAM_2365.JPGSAM_2366.JPG

 

  Yabba.. IS that the smaller Size BHAF...???      what gauge metal or aluminum is that and did you bend it yourself, if so what did you use??

  well your probably right about 2nd gen cause the ECM gonna retard timing and increase fuel delivery to compensate for the cooler more dense air...DANG.... 

 

No. It over advances the timing. This why I created the MPG fooler to RETARD the timing and bring it back to normal. When IAT and ECT temps fall the timing is advanced hard and rattling is very obvious. Then just flipping the MPG fooler on the rattle is GONE. It becomes quieter and and MPG's rise about a average of 2 MPG.

 

Now I've got to clarify something.

 

RACING/ HIGH PERFORMANCE

 

Yes. You want to have a cold air intake. This is a must to controlling high EGT's and keeping the turbo discharge temperatures down while in high boost operation. Which will give better timing advancement and push the torque curve higher producing more power. But this is strictly for racing.

 

 

DAILY DRIVER

 

No. You want to take slightly warm air from under the hood. Being most daily drivers rarely ever hit high boost operations for long periods of time. Now if you trailer towing a lot I would suggest the cold air intake if you running the mountains and towing. But empty daily driver I highly suggest IAT temps of 100-140*F. Because when you retard timing it puts the torque down lower producing the power easier at lower RPM's. Not to mention it does provide the heat needed to quickly ignite the fuel where cold air can't.

 

 

As you'll see the turbo discharge is high but the intercooler knocks it back down. Now a daily driver with low boost will not produce enough warm to make the engine efficient.

  well your probably right about 2nd gen cause the ECM gonna retard timing and increase fuel delivery to compensate for the cooler more dense air...DANG.... 

 

 

No. It over advances the timing. This why I created the MPG fooler to RETARD the timing and bring it back to normal. When IAT and ECT temps fall the timing is advanced hard and rattling is very obvious. Then just flipping the MPG fooler on the rattle is GONE. It becomes quieter and and MPG's rise about a average of 2 MPG.

 

Now I've got to clarify something.

 

RACING/ HIGH PERFORMANCE

 

Yes. You want to have a cold air intake. This is a must to controlling high EGT's and keeping the turbo discharge temperatures down while in high boost operation. Which will give better timing advancement and push the torque curve higher producing more power. But this is strictly for racing.

 

high boost.png

 

DAILY DRIVER

 

No. You want to take slightly warm air from under the hood. Being most daily drivers rarely ever hit high boost operations for long periods of time. Now if you trailer towing a lot I would suggest the cold air intake if you running the mountains and towing. But empty daily driver I highly suggest IAT temps of 100-140*F. Because when you retard timing it puts the torque down lower producing the power easier at lower RPM's. Not to mention it does provide the heat needed to quickly ignite the fuel where cold air can't.

 

low boost.png

 

As you'll see the turbo discharge is high but the intercooler knocks it back down. Now a daily driver with low boost will not produce enough warm to make the engine efficient.

 

 

  well your probably right about 2nd gen cause the ECM gonna retard timing and increase fuel delivery to compensate for the cooler more dense air...DANG.... 

 

 

OK,, that came out wrong...what i should have said is the ECM is gonna Try to "STABILIZE" Timing...let me try this agin... The cold "more dense" air is definitely going to advance the "Engine Timing" on any engine,,i think thats agreed on   ,,,so to "STABILIZE OR COMPENSATE FOR THE ADVANCE TIMING the ECM sees this and advances the "FUEL Delivery timing ,,which without a steady Cylinder temps of 800-1000f degrees results in a "incomplete or inefficient burn,,  which EXPLAINS  the fuel/valve rattle and the drop in MPG..   

Edited July 18, 201510 yr by rburks

basically what your saying is without the necessary heat in the cylinders the advanced timing not gonna mean diddley,,just wasted fuel...

Problem is that with timing advancement the torque curve move up in RPM so advancing timing makes the power harder to reach during the cold operation forcing to rev higher. Then also the design was advance the timing to hopefully give enough time to convert liquid fuel to vapor to go BOOM. That liquid to vapor process takes longer if the cylinders and the air is colder. Make matters worse the 24V engine is the lowest compression ratio engine of all the engines to date. (SO @ 16.3:1 or HO @ 17.0:1) Even older 12 Valves where 17.5 or better IIRC.

HAS DOES THE MPG FOOLER work with Edge Comp or Edge juice..or any programmer???  i mean does it stop the programmer from adding its targeted timing ???

The MPG fooler is a simple resistor...  the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor is a variable resistor.  The "Fooler" inserts a resisor of the same value as a warmed up engine, so the engine will self adjust to that sensor reading. 

My home built fooler is a wiring harness extension tapped & wired to a dash switch & said resistor. 

a) before the engine fully warms up. 

b) when it's cold out & may not get full operating temperature 

 

Knowing this, the ECM & any chip or programer will do what it's set to do including the "fooled" IAT reading.