so, to all the flatbed owners out there..

Where do you have your mudflaps hanging? Close to the rear tires, or further back.

My mudflaps are are hard plastic (recycled 'something') and pretty stiff. they are 2X3 foot. I'll probably trim them a little. If I mount them right behind the

rear duals, say 4-5 inches back of the tire, It'll keep crap off the tailpipe... but there is always the concern of ripping them off whilst backing up in mud... Semi driver friend warned me about that..

If I mount them towards the back of the bed, then the exhaust may melt the flap.. the flap would only be 5-6 inches away from the exhaust flow.

Thanks for any advice!

I say mound them before the exhaust and cut the mudflaps so that they are a few inches off the ground and you should be fine. The plastic mud flaps are stiffer and more "slippery" than the rubber ones and I and I don't see them get ripped off much on the trucks I work on.

Ok, pretty good idea now where to weld in some mounting iron..

Next question!

I got the 'light kit' in a box for this flatbed.. whole bunch of oval reds, oval clear(white) small round red and amber

a ready made harness to string out and hook up..

NO MENTION OF WHERE THE REDS AND AMBERS GO!!!

So, picture this:

front corner of flatbed (you'd see it in the mirror shining straight ahead) gets a 'red'???

The sides of the deck front and rear get amber??

The rear is a no brainer.. all red or white ovals.

The headache rack has it's own special shaped lights.. easy peasy.

Edited October 26, 201410 yr by rancherman

Should be amber on the front corners and front sides of the bed. Then reds on the rear and rear sides of the bed if that makes sense. No reds should be facing forward and no ambers should be facing the rear.

Is this your project from several trucks? You no post pictures? So sad.

Should be amber on the front corners and front sides of the bed. Then reds on the rear and rear sides of the bed if that makes sense. No reds should be facing forward and no ambers should be facing the rear.

what he said, reds are rear and amber everywhere else

Is this your project from several trucks? You no post pictures? So sad.

yah, yah, yah!!! I know!!!

Here is a pic from 2 months ago.. I can't find the camera for the current

progress on the flatbed project.

here is a pic of the front 3/4 view, which shows all the holes for the lights

On the front corner, you'll notice 2 holes. One facing front, the other 'just around the corner, facing to the side'.

Edited October 26, 201410 yr by rancherman

Amber on the font corners and then red on the rear corners.

Amber on the font corners and then red on the rear corners.

This is exactly how my tilt trailer is set up From the factory.

I have 4 clear lights on each side. Only place there are any reds are at the back For the tail/brake lights and turn signals.

Edited October 26, 201410 yr by diesel4life

THANKS!!!

Forward HOOOO!

Should be amber on the front corners and front sides of the bed. Then reds on the rear and rear sides of the bed if that makes sense. No reds should be facing forward and no ambers should be facing the rear.

That's right.

How did you end up bolting it down? Just wondering since I made a suggestion.

I'll have pics soon!

Basically I used 6 'stringers' of 2X3X 1/4 rectangular tubing, and used the original box mounting holes. I welded the tubing to the channels of the flatbed. The extra 2 stringers were tied in with the gooseneck hitch area, welded to 3/8ths plate, and then THOSE were bolted to the existing frame holes (right beside the tires)..

Lights are now installed, but need to string out the wiring harness, then finish up on the fuel

neck, and of course the mudflaps!

pics of what I've got so far.

This pic is the rear section, using the 2x3x 1/4 rectangle tubing. They are welded permanently to the 'c' channel on the flatbed, and uses 5/8ths bolts through the original box mounting holes on the frame. The 'foward' of the two shown, is smashed a little. The truck frame has a slight bubble "UP" at this point, meaning the tops of the tube wouldn't be even. All the rest of the tubes came out even.

This pic shows the middle pair of stringers. This is the part that 'ties' in the actual hitch plate (gooseneck ball) to the frame of the truck. Again, the 2X3 tubing, with more tubing 'stacked' up to the 1/2 inch ball plate. I used 3/8ths plate welded to the stringers, and used existing 5/8ths holes already in the truck frame. This whole mess is permanently welded to the flatbed. Notice the 'notch' at bottom of plate.. to clear the brake line attaching bolt.. Might be handy to put a wrench on it someday!

This is a shot of the view looking upwards to the opening for the ball. Showing the 'stacking' of the tubing, which ties the original ball plate into the stringers. This dude is solid.

Finally, the forward 2 stringers. same tubing, welded to the C channel, and re using the original box mounts. Theoretically, I could pop the 12 bolts, and remove the whole system and re attach to another Dodge of same vintage.. 12 5/8ths bolts hold the whole contraption down, I didn't use lock washers. I used loc-tite and grade 8 flat washers. Lock washers tend to spin out/break.. and then you've got a loose fastener.

DOT is getting pretty snarly about what is getting drilled or welded on our pickups frames. Reusing existing holes is a safe bet.

I think I've a pretty good idea on how to plumb the fuel neck now.. I'm also going to re use the receiver hitch to tie into the drop down hitch on the flatbed. It'll be in the original position, but will be just to the front of the flatbed's dropdown. That'll really stiffen up the whole rear end. Lord help anyone who rear ends me!

Edited October 27, 201410 yr by rancherman

Time to wire!!!

Got the body harness sorted out, and labeled.. Bought a new 7 flat terminal body plug. This one seems tougher than the last one.

Now I need to wire in both the flatbed and the trailer plug.. I got my schematic all ready to roll!

Last month, I bought some crimp on connectors for another project, they had heat shrink tubing already in place.. Nice thicker type tubing.

All I can find for 'just tubing' is some pretty thin stuff, much thinner than what was on those terminals. Anyone know what I'm talking about? I'm just guessing, but I'd say the wall thickness was maybe 1/16th, pre shrink.... whereas the hardware store stuff is closer to geesh, 'paper thin'..

I'll solder and heat shrink.. then tape it all together.

I know what you're talking about, Heat shrink butt connectors and regular shrink tubing. I've never seen thick shrink tubing but have used the regular "paper thin" stuff many times as well as the heat shrink connectors both hold up quite well as long as there's no rubbing.

You can get shrink tube with a sealer inside it.

Its a nice bit thicker and will really seal your connections.

As far as a brand or place to buy it...I don't know. Just have used it at work.

Regards Chris