Back in 07 I bought a PF100 for an 01 24v that I had. In less than a year I was on my 3rd pump, (all covered under warranty). The first one burnt its self out due to being restricted, the second one quit due to a cheap o-ring that shrunk in the cold weather allowing the pump to suck air. The 3rd pump seemed to work alright but by then the blue fuel lines had started to show dry rot cracks. I ended up selling the truck not to long after that so I wasnt able to really put the pump to the test. To those who have and are currently running an Airdog, have you experienced an issues?

 

A few weeks ago I picked up a basically stock 02 24v and have been looking for lift pump replacement options. Naturally Airdog is the first name that comes to mind. I see now they have a few different models Is there any benifit with the Aridog II over the PF100? My over all goal for the truck is somewhere in the neighborhood of 475 ponies, and whatever torque figure that get me.

Well here it is, about 15% larger unit and filter are 2 times bigger. Had to mount it in a new place, it was too big to clear under cab.

An update, just drove the truck and right of way noticed pressure fluctuation of about 2 psi up down up down constantly, had to close my needle valve almost off for it to be steady. So ether that's how FASS is or my Air Dog was really worn out. But AD held 19-20 psi without much of fluctuation even with needle valve open a turn.  FASS seems to perform fine, holds about 18psi with needle valve almost closed. I felt return line and vibration corresponds to pressure fluctuations. My guess it ball and spring that regulate pressure opens and closes to stay at 18 psi. if I open needle valve then pressure is between 15.5 and 17.5 bouncing. Other than that I got life time warranty on it  as long as they don't go out of business like other have.

 

Edited January 31, 201510 yr by Dieselfuture

Alright, for all of you that have Air Dog. This is what I found when I tore my AD apart to find where the fuel was leaking from. I have to say that it's not all that bad of quality, but also this is one of the first ones too. It seems to be built pretty well and by the looks of it has a lot of life left in most of components. In pictures you will see the part that failed is a little seal that keeps fuel from coming in to electric motor, and there is a little hole for fuel to come outside when that seal fails. That seal also says made in Taiwan and appears to be damaged back in assembly line ( don't think it's in US, but maybe ). Other than that seal, everything else inside looked good and brushes that I thought would be worn had a lot of life left in them too. I took pictures with my phone so not sure how they will look on screen. I did try to zoom in on part #'s for future. So basically I'm glad I got a new FASS, (supposedly 98% made in USA), (hopefully that little seal too) ,  I don't think I'll find that little seal anytime fast for Air Dog, and AD people won't help. Enjoy the pictures.

P.S. I really think that Air Dog and FASS both should sell these little parts to their costumers. They are screwing us over for $5 worth of parts. It won't be any harder to rebuilt than an alternator or a vacuum pump.          

It also looked like that same hole fuel comes out, water can go back in if you power wash it. Notice some corrosion on the bearing and where it sits, also tiny groves from the seal. I think the only thing holding fuel from coming in to stator and armature when seal fails is that sealed bearing, it's pushed in to it's hole with o-ring so fuel has to go through the bearing it self.

Edited February 1, 201510 yr by Dieselfuture

definitely looks repairable, it would not be hard to source new seals and bearings. its  ashamed they are not forth coming with parts or a rebuild kit. this is and learning the family history between the two companies is why i picked the Airdog 2 165.

 

so far so good,

 

http://www.pureflowtechnologiesairdog.com/airdog-vs-others/

 

Ebay. Those bearings are like 10 for 6 bucks. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Qty-10-608-2RS-two-side-rubber-seals-bearing-608-rs-ball-bearings-608-rs-/130963688741?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e7e0b4d25

can't quite make out the number on the seal... Throw your specs on and google that number! No doubt you'll come up with plenty!

edit.. I think I got 031072v1 if so, this should work http://www.autopartoo.com/oem/transcom/031072vtby.html

The 'v' should be the Viton material (diesel resistant)

You may have to use one of the interchange numbers and try searching those

Edited February 1, 201510 yr by rancherman

Ebay. Those bearings are like 10 for 6 bucks. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Qty-10-608-2RS-two-side-rubber-seals-bearing-608-rs-ball-bearings-608-rs-/130963688741?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e7e0b4d25

can't quite make out the number on the seal... Throw your specs on and google that number! No doubt you'll come up with plenty!

I didn't worry about bearings as much as that seal. I got BDI bearing 10 min from me they carry a lot on hand, but that seal night be challenge to find. I just thought that AD or FASS should offer rebuilt kit for their product for people like me that bought their truck with pump on it and no warranty.

If you can get measurements off the seal McMaster Carr would have it, just call them and describe it and give them the measurements.

CHRYSLER t340

FREIGHTLNR CHR3101

TROSTEL T50364

VICTOR 62051

L&S Be... 71-3101

TIMKEN 712021

NATIONAL 240916

Would some like to create a article of all this AirDog data it might be something others would like to do is rebuild it themselves.

Would some like to create a article of all this AirDog data it might be something others would like to do is rebuild it themselves.

Looks like ranchman is all over parts #s and I got decent pictures of tear down, maybe once I get all the parts lined up I'll make a new post of how to rebuilt AD pump/motor. I'm not going to change bearings or brushes they are in great shape, just need that seal is all. Good thing is I'll have a spear lift pump now.

Unless you want to sell it at a nice price?

Unless you want to sell it at a nice price?

I thought about it too but I think I'd like to keep it as a spear for now, maybe later. I'm still thinking of a project for future.

CHRYSLER t340

FREIGHTLNR CHR3101

TROSTEL T50364

VICTOR 62051

L&S Be... 71-3101

TIMKEN 712021

NATIONAL 240916

I looked at some of the number you provided and they don't look like the seal that is in AD, just in case the number on the seal is 081072 vtf

Just seen your post above, so yes this is correct number, I did a quick search and didn't find nothing, I'll check later got to go shovel snow, we finally got some decent snow this year. About 10" so far, still snowing. Wet and heavy.

Edited February 1, 201510 yr by Dieselfuture

seals and numbers are kinda tricky.

not only are the shaft diameter, outside diameter, and width crucial, then you have lip type, number of lips, material of seal, direction of lips-according to body of seal.

That list of 'interchange #'s ' probably has the dimensions correct.. but there may be differences in actual seal type or msterial. Lets take a step outside the box here! There may be a good chance there is a better seal out there in the first place! Just gotta research what's 'out there'.

NO doubt airdog didn't have a special seal made just for them.. That lil dude no doubt is just a plain ol off the shelf that AD got a tremendous deal on. (cheap)

I knock mine apart tonight and see what's in it too. BRB!

seals and numbers are kinda tricky.

not only are the shaft diameter, outside diameter, and width crucial, then you have lip type, number of lips, material of seal, direction of lips-according to body of seal.

That list of 'interchange #'s ' probably has the dimensions correct.. but there may be differences in actual seal type or msterial. Lets take a step outside the box here! There may be a good chance there is a better seal out there in the first place! Just gotta research what's 'out there'.

NO doubt airdog didn't have a special seal made just for them.. That lil dude no doubt is just a plain ol off the shelf that AD got a tremendous deal on. (cheap)

I knock mine apart tonight and see what's in it too. BRB!

Oh man don't get mad, after shoveling snow I went and pupped that thing out and you were right   031072 is the number. here is few more pictures. Also that seal is pressed in against another o-ring, same size that is between gear rotor block and base plate.

Ok, got mine apart, and this is what I got;

This ad 100 has -0- hours.

I found the little star washer that is used to hold the seal in place was 'off center' half the little tangs on the star were just sitting in the bore, the opposing half were bent up. If that washer was putting any side pressure on the seal, It may cause it to wear pretty quickly in one spot.

I didn't pull it out, cause as you all know, those one-way washers might be junk for the next trip back in.

pretty small

 

Ok, got mine apart, and this is what I got;

This ad 100 has -0- hours.

I found the little star washer that is used to hold the seal in place was 'off center' half the little tangs on the star were just sitting in the bore, the opposing half were bent up. If that washer was putting any side pressure on the seal, It may cause it to wear pretty quickly in one spot.

I didn't pull it out, cause as you all know, those one-way washers might be junk for the next trip back in.

That just says how quality went to s..t over years. That's why most of their failures are from these seals leaking fuel in to electric motor, that simple step could double or triple life of these things. 

this was first one that popped up  http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/36676088?src=pla&cid=PLA-Google-PLA+-+Test&CS_003=7867724&CS_010=36676088

here is a good thread http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-performance-parts-discussion/561757-need-help-airdog-problem.html

and looks like these guy had SKF 3103 for seal

Edited February 1, 201510 yr by Dieselfuture

here's mine with -0- hours.

Sorry for the fuzzy pics. I was probably 4 inches too close!

I found the little star washer that holds the seal in place, 'off center'. half the little tabs that bite into the housing were straight, the opposing side tabs were bent up pretty severely. If that was putting any side pressure on the seal, it may have ate it up pretty quickly.

I didn't knock the seal out, I was a little afraid to force that star washer out and expect it to hold next time. Those little tabs were bit into the aluminum pretty deep.

Seal appears to be just a solid thick seal,(the 'rubber' is about 1/4 inch thick, same as the seal housing) and the pressure side has a slightly smaller diameter, forming the seal lip. I'd say the motor shaft would be in full contact with the whole depth of the seal.