I have the 2001 FSM but there are a few differences between my 1999 and what is listed in the book.

 

I am trying to get my rotor off but I can't tell if the axle nut keeps this thing on or not. To get the rotor off, do I remove the axle nut? Looking at what I have that appears to be the answer, but I would rather not remove it if I don't have to.

 

.  The FSM shows a caliper with two pistons, my truck has a single piston and no matter what I have tried I can't get the seal to seat.  It will be $60 for a new set of calipers, not sure that is too bad of a deal compared to how much time I have invested in trying to rebuild them.

That's another area where us 99 guys got cheated  . I'm not sure when the twin pistons showed up but we don't have them. Seems the front brakes are still plenty strong compared to the back. I'm with you on the reman calipers. I like to do things myself also, but an in-shop (my shop) rebuild is worth more than $60. If I was retired, OK, but I'm not. So I figure my time in to things like that.

That's another area where us 99 guys got cheated  . I'm not sure when the twin pistons showed up but we don't have them. Seems the front brakes are still plenty strong compared to the back. I'm with you on the reman calipers. I like to do things myself also, but an in-shop (my shop) rebuild is worth more than $60. If I was retired, OK, but I'm not. So I figure my time in to things like that.

my 2000  has   dual pistons.   Awaiting  arrival  of  new ones  as-we-speak.  

Pistons  were  5 bucks and  change each,  seal kit  was 3 bucks per caliper,   guide pins, bushings, and rubber boots  was another  6,  and  I'm  going to try  the  'speedy bleed'  bleeder screws from Dorman.

 

going to do a little searching to see if there is any 'trick' to popping in the new boots..

 

Man,   I'd agree  with you on some of this  re manned  stuff, (price versus our  'time')    But  after my   debacle of  a  CARDONE  steering gear lasting   8 months..     Plus  I  am  'teaching'  my kid how to get  his hands  dirty too..

Edited February 6, 201510 yr by rancherman

 

    Plus  I  am  'teaching'  my kid how to get  his hands  dirty too..

Hard to put a price on that. I have a little mechanic in the works as well.

I got my new rotors and hubs back on.  Bled the brakes after I installed the new calipers on both sides.  The tires are back on and my braking issues are a thing of the past.  Now I have small oil drip coming from my right axle. 

   I was worried that I banged the axle around too much when I installed the hub/rotor.

I got my new rotors and hubs back on.  Bled the brakes after I installed the new calipers on both sides.  The tires are back on and my braking issues are a thing of the past.  Now I have small oil drip coming from my right axle. 

   I was worried that I banged the axle around too much when I installed the hub/rotor.

Right axle isn't too bad..  not easy,  but  not too bad!   figure  3-4 hours   start to finish..

Don't have to  drop the  carrier out of the housing,..   to replace the seal.   I slid the  inner shaft out too, give a little more room  to install the new seal.

You will want to replace the  plastic bushing  in the end of the shaft when you  pull it  apart!  (or make dang sure it  in there when you do!)      

Right axle isn't too bad..  not easy,  but  not too bad!   figure  3-4 hours   start to finish..

Don't have to  drop the  carrier out of the housing,..   to replace the seal.   I slid the  inner shaft out too, give a little more room  to install the new seal.

You will want to replace the  plastic bushing  in the end of the shaft when you  pull it  apart!  (or make dang sure it  in there when you do!)      

If nothing else the hub/rotor assembly should come apart with no issues.  I've been reading hint/tips/tricks online and it doesn't seems too bad. I need to find a place to rent seal seating tool or make something out of all tread.  But I won't start that for a few weeks.

If nothing else the hub/rotor assembly should come apart with no issues.  I've been reading hint/tips/tricks online and it doesn't seems too bad. I need to find a place to rent seal seating tool or make something out of all tread.  But I won't start that for a few weeks.

I lucked out,  I had  some  threaded rod  from  a  engine sleeve pulling set,  and  used  an  adapter from my ball joint press, and  a couple of   large washers.  I pulled it  a little,  backed off to see if it was started straight.  It wasn't.   So I tapped  the  'high side' in a little to  even it out, and  pulled some more.

Tfaoro  recommended   grinding a  very slight bevel on the leading edge of the   seal..   I  only   buffed off the green paint with a wire wheel.

Pull it  in until it  bottoms out  in the bore. 

OH!  btw,   when you  run the  threaded rod in to   pull the new seal,   wrap  some  electrical tape on the  threads  so they don't  chew up the seal as you pass the rod through!!

 

OH!  btw,   when you  run the  threaded rod in to   pull the new seal,   wrap  some  electrical tape on the  threads  so they don't  chew up the seal as you pass the rod through!!

Good advice there!

 

   I was worried that I banged the axle around too much when I installed the hub/rotor.

you don't have to be  overly ginger  when  putting the axle back in..    There's a  'funnel/guide'  on the  seal itself,  which   guides  the  axle  up  and through the seal..  Still,  you don't want to   ape- chuck  it in!    

you don't have to be  overly ginger  when  putting the axle back in..    There's a  'funnel/guide'  on the  seal itself,  which   guides  the  axle  up  and through the seal..  Still,  you don't want to   ape- chuck  it in!    

 

He's right there is a funnel at the end of the tube to help guide the axle shaft back into the carrier/splines. I remember the old days on my 72 Dodge of having to lever or lift the shaft into place.