Mopar1973Man

I was doing about 1,100 miles a week. So time spans will vary. Mileage will vary depending city vs highway use. Now not as much for me either.

Kick in a bit more for the APPS Sensor... 3 pins are the rheostat. +5V APPS Signal GND Then there is 3 other pins which is the IVS (Idle Validation Switches) Idle Throttling GND Now the stock APPS has a tag value of voltage on the back which is the point the logic chip flips those two idle validation switches. Only one leg at a time will be hooked to ground. If the throttle side is grounded then the ECM follows the APPS signal voltage. If the idle pin is grounded then all APPS voltages are ignored and the Cummins Idle Software is used. Some time ago someone on CF posted about doing voltage adjustment to fix shift issues and such. This went down a huge rabbit hole that had all kinds of bad results. Typically the end user attempted adjust to exactly that voltage and the sensor would rock back and forth between idle and throttling causing all kinds of other issues, idling high, shift changes, possible error codes. Hence why all documentation on the stock APPS sensor says "DO NOT ADJUST". I've removed a ton of these crappy noise filters and ground wire mods even the dealer today still doing. I will give it to @W-Tthe ground wire mod does indeed work very very well. I just done one not to long ago with shift issues had the BD noise filter and the APPS wire mod. This particular truck would not shift to 4th gear period. After pulling all the wiring mods off and returning pure stock electrical now it shift into 4th gear normally. I even informed the owner I needed to do a W-T ground wire mod soon to keep this straight. I even showed him on my own truck of what is removed and how its wired. I done at least a solid dozen W-T ground wire mods and 100% success rate too. Always a solid fix and no longer AC noise problems. Now as for APPS sensors I would only suggest the Timbo's APPS being its a completely mechanical sensor and there is NO ELECTRONICS. Life pan of the sensor is about 7 to 9 years of daily driver. Do bother with OE replacement, or Wells APPS both of these are back to using electronics to toggle the IVS to idle or throttling and back to fighting with adjusting voltages and people always screw that up. Timbo's you can literally install, start and drive without even adjusting or doing a APPS reset. I know this isn't optimal but I know it can be done. The whole voltage adjust is all about that IVS switches only on Wells and OE APPS its critical of the voltage where on the Timbo's is actually the bellcrank angle voltage isn't even a issue. As you see there is no electronics and the angle of the bellcrank will set the idle or throttling IVS legs. This why you could install and forget and never think about it again. Just when you do the install as instructed from Timbos you actually setting the slack space from the screw stop so your closer to the breaking point of the IVS.

Well I'm still on my way of fixing up my mini van. I just got my new tires for $380 installed and balanced. Really made it a better ride, smoother without the broken belt. So far I've only been running this mini van locally. Now with new tires I'm willing to travel now longer distances. No issues, no leaks, no performance issues. Just cheap tires but fresh rubber does better in the snow for control and just a bit better traction wise. Today I've got to haul out to Cascade ID let's see how it does.

Dang. We could use more snow. Just been cold.

Weird I live in Idaho and never heard of this. Might have to start packing the 9mm more...

Yes the brass sleeves are the bearings in the turbo both my HX35W or HX35/40 Hybrid use the same kit. The snap rings hold the brass sleeves in places. One on each side I will warn the pin holes in the clips are very very small. Make sure to tool up before starting. Yeah my first turbo rebuild make sure you really pay attention to all the parts your remove and where from, etc. Me I forgot one of the pieces for the thrust plate and you couldn't tighten the compressor without it binding up. Again make sure you paying attention all the way through if anything doesn't feel right don't force it, tighten to make it bind up, etc. Look over everything again be sure all parts are installed correctly you don't need to damaged parts. When its done that turbo should spin smooth and be just a bit stiff at first but after ran a few minutes on the truck the bearings will settle in and spin much better. The worse part is getting the exhaust housing unbolted carefully without breaking the bolts off, then getting the housing to separate to expose the tubine wheel. I've tried a few others in my time to rebuild and few times I hit a wall and couldn't because bolts are frozen bad, housing rusted together, etc.

I've seen several auto Cummins do this too but out here you let it use the top gear like yours it would be building mass EGT's because of the constant grades. Very inefficient to run that low out here because it would always have to be lugging climbing 1% to 2% grade. Thankfully most of the ranchers and such all have manuals it the retirees that have the Auto's for towing there RV's and toys. I just done 2 clutch job in this winter already on a 3rd gen and 4th gen. Autos, are not very common out here. You still find out the EGT's drop lower up near 2k RPMs vs letting it settle to the bottom like those do. All you need to do is watch the live data of Engine Load and the EGT's will tell you a bunch.

https://www.amazon.com/Turbo-Rebuild-Holset-HX35W-HE351CW/dp/B07Y2L4P5C Please don't freak out and say you need a Cummins OEM or Holset OEM rebuild kit. Being I've actually order and used a Holset kit for my HX35.40 and DID NOT come with everything this kit has. That was the mistake I did I listen to everyone stating you must have the official Holset kit to make it right. Well Holset kit is missing all the o-rings this one has, missing the return oil gasket, manifold exhaust gasket, and the rear housing gasket. I HIGHLY suggest this kit over the Holset being its much more complete. As you can see the Cummins kit is short also.. No manifold gasket, no oil return gasket, no discharge o-ring, lots of missing stuff that should be there but Hey its OEM crap once again PLEASE DO NOT BUY! Holset or Cummins kits, not good...

Nevermind on getting tracks on a vehicle.

I know the feeling. I'm hoping for a bit of global warming. I'm tired of the single digit morning here.

Oil residue. Look like bearing time.

3.55 gears and 35 tires are going to be a problem being the final ratio is 3.21 to the ground. Optimal is 3.55 to 3.73 to the ground. Be ready for a fight with EGTs till you change the gears to 4.10 in both axles which would be 3.71 which work work much better. I'm running 245s on 3.55 which is 3.69 final and capable of 28.04 MPG.

Your heading in the right direction. I would check all the CANBus wiring for issues. If there is connection issue it could drop the data and see gauges zero out. I've got to ask the DOM (date of manufacture) of the truck?

You need military style terminals then just copper lug the cables. I just done a 2006 Dodge back this summer and turned out good.

I can say the sound of the turbo was off while spooling. After seeing the rub marks yup I knew the bearings are done in the turbo. This stems from my parking brake being broke. So I'm shutting down so I can lock it down in gear. I'm pretty sure I've got a coked up shaft in the turbo.

@Krlspokane12 gotta ask what axle gears are running?

Yeah full track side by side or ATVs are really common out here. Not motorcycles with tracks. Ive seen a few passing on the highway but never send one running in the snow.

Nope. Maybe full track set up for ATV Honda Rancher... This is not mine... But wishing maybe... Addon: these are more than what I paid for the entire machine new... Ekkkk! https://atvtracksystems.com/product/honda-420-trx-foreman-rancher-rear-rigid-axle-2007-2013/

I wish. Truthfully when I get past some the stuff I'm doing I could hit the snowmobile rental shop in McCall ID and see if I can work a deal like I did 14 years ago and bought a Arctic CAT Panther Deluxe only paid $800 for it had a crack in the windscreen, I might do that again buy a nice one maybe next year?

but still its

Neat but out of my class of getting be an old fart.

Who built it?

Naw, too much issues for controlling. @Me78569he's already built a controller and done the entire turbo on his old 2nd Gen.

That excessive low end timing. That is about the only thing that causes the bucking issue in the low RPM's.

I must run in the wrong circles I've never really seen anything like that.