Mopar1973Man

Failing sensor would of tossed a error code for sure if it out of range. ECT if the sensor is unplugged then the volts go high and gauge pegs out 240F. If its shorted to ground it will drop to -40*F. The only way to have number in the middle random if of the sensor failed IN SPEC. In other words showing random data all over the map but never going out of range. This could also be a bad ECM and/or Quadzilla.

I'm not on the overloads yet. Again I'll get it scale here some day and find out.

I've several guys around me with twins on the 24v Cummins. It just rather foolish for the ones I've seen. Like I know of one truck with RV275 Injectors with twins. Then there is a second truck like mine with 150 HP injectors and twins again. I still have lower EGT's at cruise either towing or empty. Neither of these have a Quadzilla those two truck are running Edge Juice. There is no timing adjustment... I typically cruise at 550*F EGT's at 65 MPH. I would consider twins if my truck was towing more often and long haul going cross country.

I would talk to the coating company and be sure it can with stand temperatures above 1,200*F and for long term. Not that you would drive that hard but make sure it can withstand way more temperature for long periods of time.

Well I can give this much my last fill up I netted 17.58 MPG on my 2002 Dodge (The Beast). I've got the +150 Injectors but running a Quadzilla tuner. The key here is getting the optimal timing for you use. Like myself since I'm running 245's for tires my RPMs are up and the cruise for 65 MPH is right close to 2k RPMs. Now the next trick is to find the best cruise timing for your application. Good starting point would be 19 degrees at 2k RPMs. But this truck sits mostly and doesn't get driven but on the weekends. This last tank included hauling firewood out of the national forest. This is out side the 24V realm but... Just the changing of the 18 inch wheels off my 2006 Dodge and going back to stock steel wheels with 265/70 R17 tires gave nearly a full 4 MPG. Don't forget about rolling resistance and rotational mass. In this case dropping the extra mass and getting the final gearing close to 3.73 is very optimal for all Cummins.

You don't have too... If you have the valve spring compressor. What you do is run 1 and 6 up to TDC since they are running mates. Now the piston at TDC. You can compress the spring pull the clips out and change the valve seals on 1 and 6 without pulling the head. Then you run 2 and 5 up to TDC and repeat. Then 3 and 4 and repeat. The valves will sit on the top of the piston and not fall out. I've got the tool in my tool box and never got to use it yet.

I'll make you think a second I've never had to rebuild my own hydrobooster yet. 432k miles and still going. The biggest thing is keeping the power steering fluid changed every 30k miles. If you keep up on the fluid changes then you'll never have to rebuild the hydrobooster.

I remember back a few years I did a intake gasket replacement. I tried for quite awhile to get it to fire up and it was pumping fuel out of 1, 3, and 4. No dice on starting. I disconnected the grid heater at the battery and gave it a small shot of starting fluid and it fired right up. They are right if the starter is tired and not cranking fast enough it will struggle to fire up with air in the lines.

Let me dig my old Edge Comp out I've still got mine in the shop somewhere and I'll dig it up and give you pins and wire colors and going to what. Mine is a 2002 edition of the Edge Comp so it might vary a bit.

Here is the local global warming... So smokey that you can't see the mountain range towards home. Home is 20 miles ot the north of this picture and north is in the direction I shot the photo.

I need to hit the scales now with all the tools. I remember just the truck and flat bed was 10,200 pounds but that was years ago. I don't think so on the springs. I'll check when I get home.

Normally the 100F to 110F weather starts in August up here but this year it started in July. Yes its normal for 100 to 110 in August and been seeing the same weather for years. We are already talking about a wet/snowy winter. Some of the locals are good at reading animal patterns and even insects. Like today it started at 57F here this morning and the rose to 97F now. No biggy... This morning when I ran to work in Donnelly ID it was mere 40F from New Meadows up into McCall and there was wispy fog in the valleys. In the past when I was running on the local fires and working wildland I remember times of sitting in a water tender without A/C and it being 100F to 110F. I even remember looking at the old school thermometer at Chevron back when I worked there for a summer and seen 117F.

Be aware there is China made Cummins heads running around out there and poor quality.

So the over head was 20.3 MPG, after filling up today it... 517 miles / 30.084 Gallons = 17.19 MPG This is way better than last week with the old tires. 420 miles / 30.505 Gallons = 13.77 MPG Stock sized tires and stock steel wheels are a winner in my book since I ditch the Fuel 18 inch wheels. Hankook AT2 265/70 R17 - $985 dollars worth of tires.

Somewhere back a page or two the author mentions that compression was like 320 PSI IIRC...

Even with my wastegate hose disconnected and open and remove one intake manifold bolt I was still able to hit 40 to 45 PSI of boost on my 2002 Dodge. Boost leaks that are so small that you can't hear them don't count. In my example I created a massive leak you can here but it still wasn't enough to make the EGT's skyrocket.

It's most likely valve guides are wasted and the valve seal blew off. There is a member here that fought that problem. Myself I had it too and had 18 of the 24 valve guides replaced. Now all good and no longer blue smoking. At idle the ECM is in control of the timing and its normal for extended idle times to see the timing jump up this is totally normal.

I was just talking to friend about this and it possible to have the o-ring pinch through the head gasket cause compression leaks.

When I did mine I pull the entire charge lead out and re-routed to the passenger battery. The circuit breaker I put on the firewall side of the battery tray. The entire cable was completely re-used. The ground side I salvage the plug on the passenger side and made a new jumper from the driver side battery to the gear case.

Only running +50 HP injectors. So there is a bit of error but not much. Like right now I'm at 500 miles and just above 1/8 of tank and easily reach the 600 miles with what is left for fuel. For sure a better MPG's for sure.

Quality DVM like Fluke or similar that can measure small AC voltages. Red probe to the alternator charge stud and the black to clean block metal is best or the negative on the passenger battery. You really need to. The alternator lead is paired right next to the ECM ground and VP44 ground so when AC noise is created the noise jumps right into the ground leads and pollutes the ground signals to the ECM. This is a required mod. The alternator charge lead is move solely to the passenger battery and the ECM ground are to the gear case and the driver side battery. No longer an issue after the mod. Dropped me from 55-60 mV AC to mere 9-11 mV AC after I was done which is acceptable.

I'm close to 500 HP on my 2002 Dodge (The Beast). +150 HP injectors (7 x 0.010) popped at 320 bar Quadzilla Adrenaline (My own custom tune) Air Dog 150 HX35/40 Hybrid Turbo (60/60/12) The biggest thing to keeping the EGT's cool is a good tuner that allows for timing like Quadzilla and then proper final ratio to the ground. Like the Beast its gear to 3.69:1 to the ground. This is 245/75 R16 tires on 3.55 gear axle which produces this final ratio. It put me at 2k RPMs at 66 MPH. This truck maxed out at 27.2 MPG years ago. But Still able to reach 20-21 MPG with this set up. On my 2006 Dodge now with 3.73 gears and stock 265/70 R17 tires I'm still at 3.73 final to the ground. This is about 2,100 at 65 MPH. Great for heavy trucks and still reaching 19-20 MPG. I'm not in it for race either but for Efficiency and longevity. Well on the Beast I've just popped 2 head gaskets. First one was too much drive pressure most likely (high timing too). Then the second gasket OEM Cummins delaminated and blew out. (Defective gasket!).

Should follow me more. I've been getting good quality parts for year but paying less. I just checked NAPA (Prolink) its $21.79 my cost but list or the public for $31.70. Then I fall back to RockAuto.Com and typically find good deals but the waiting for mail is the slow part.

350 miles to half tank of fuel sitting right at 19.9 MPG on the overhead trip computer. Only problem I would need at least two jack stands and the a free jack for other reasons. That is cool though!

Just looked it up on RockAuto.Com a brake light switch is a mere $7 dollars!!! Really you going to go that far to save a 7 dollar brake light switch... https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2001,ram+2500+pickup,5.9l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1366602,electrical-switch+&+relay,brake+light+switch,10474