Mopar1973Man

There are many secrets I've found regarding tuning on a Quadzilla or using custom injectors which is the tough part finding proper timing where your engine load drops lower, EGTs drop lower, and engine oil temperature drops. TIP: Anything that is creating heat is a loss of power. That horsepower created in motion as it travels from the piston to the rear tires if it's creating heat its is wasted energy converting to heat. The ultimate is not to have any heat. The best we can do is reduce the amount created. TIP: Optimal final ratio for daily drivers is 3.73:1 after tires. Example: Take the stock 265/75 R16 off and pit on a set of 245/75 R16 ties now switches the final from 3.55 to 3.69 after tires. This is reduction on transmission temperature and rear axle temperature.

He's right I didn't pay attention to the front mounted distributor. That is a big block. 383, 400, 413, 426 or 440. My Charger had a 383 Big Block.

Need a weather proof relay like an AirDog I've not had any power issues since 2006 when it was installed.

Nope neither.

Sounds like heavy cruise timing and then your hitting heavier engine loads which it now retarding timing to build boost. Then it engine load drops and the cruise timing kicks in again. SECRET: IAT temperature below 80°F ECM will add roughly another 4 degrees of timing. Warmer intake air works way better than excessive cold which is kicking that excessive timing in. MyQuadzilla I'm running right near 29°BTDC at 2500 RPM at 82 MPH. But I limit my maximum cruise boost to 5 PSI or less. Your over advancing why the knock. SECRET: If you monitor engine oil temperatures you can find your optimal timing but you need a Quadzilla to do this. So optimal timing your engine oil temperature should be 30°F cooler than engine coolant. I'm running a 200°F thermostat from a 6.7L Cummins I see 200 to 210°F coolant temperature and engine oil top out at 175°F so all my fuel is burned in the cup of the piston and little flame front on the cylinder walls. If the timing is wrong there is excessive flame on the cylinder walls the coolant near the oil cooler is warmer and engine oil temperature will rise because the fire isn't at the right time. Trans Temp on the display is engine oil. Coolant will rollover to -40°F when coolant is greater than 204°F.

Whole article in the database... you need to wonder over and do some reading... https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/w-t-ground-wire-mod-simplified-r574/

Do you have a PCM noise filter installed?

When you have too advanced timing the fuel is lighting off and starting flame front on the cylinder walls which in turn heats the cylinder coolant jacket. Now the engine oil temperature will rise because there is too much heat from the cylinders and now the oil cooler can't unload heat into a warm coolant jacket. When your flame is created in the bowl of the piston you notice there is no flame contact with the walls and the coolant temperature is going to be cooler around the cylinder walls. When I see the engine oil temp rise to coolant temperature I know I need to drop 2 degrees of cruise timing and I'm good to go in about 5 miles drop to about 175*F with my 200*F thermostat so then let on knowing the changes I've got to do as the weather warms up and cetane starts to drop. Reverse can be true too being too retarded can start a flame front on the cylinder wall. As the piston starts down and expanding the front on to the walls as the piston is traveling down. TIP: Optimal intake manifold temperature is between 80 to 140*F - Cooler temps just degrade MPG and require retune to stay up with the changes of fuel and environment. Tip: The optimal cetane is 40-43 on these trucks unless in winter climate then 45-47 is required. Adding more cetane does not improve fuel. More cetane you add the lower the BTUs become for the fuel. Keep your cetane as low as possible at all times. Coolant should be 190*F Thermostat. 180 Thermostat is too cold for our 24V because of the valve design it cools down way easy. This is why I went to 200*F thermostat being I've got temperatures down to -20*F this winter. Intake manifold heat is a requirement to make these Cummins run in the 20's MPG wise even at minus temperatures. SECRET: Fuel table shouldn't rise above 100% in your cruise state range. Example my truck to climb a 7% grade at 65 MPH needs about 13 to 14 PSI of boost. My fuel table rises above 100% at 15 PSI of boost. If I dig into the throttle I have all my power there at the ready. As well as cooler EGT's

I do my timing based on oil temperature and engine load. Optimal timing the engine oil will be 30 degrees cooler than coolant. Even running 200 degree 6.7L thermostat I'm right at 172 to 175 degrees engine oil temperature. No you can no share sensors. You must install second sensors for both EGTs and fuel pressure. This will skew the actual numbers if you do share.

Oh my dual piston a/c compressor. Wow!

Alternator is on the passenger side then the power steering pump was low on the driver side of the block. If I could see the bracket I could assemble it easy.

Did you change your registered color?

Interesting...

That sucks. Might be time to upgrade away from the China made Cummins gasket produced by BLK, China. Felpro or other name gasket. I've had a Cummins head gasket delaminate.

As I sit here playing Fable on XBox... You have no idea how cold you get without hair for the first time. Wow it's shocking how cold I feel constantly. Thankfully I have my assortment of wigs which feels good and warm now.

Kind of nice to run with the ricer down I84 for a few blasts. I'll admit I lost being to bad value in my tune setup. Now I'm ready I'll put the hurt on a ricer. Lol But yeah set the cruise and enjoy the ride.

Why I don't like being down there. Treasure Valley people are crazy drivers and can be rather stupid too at times.

I would have to see the wire colors to know what I'm looking at. I would just pour over a few wiring maps to see what the plug is for.

Stubble sucks on my black and blue wig. It snags on direction and slides the other. With all the loose hair on my bed I've got to wash everything to get the the hair of everything. At least I can wash my head with out the fallout and plugging my bathtub drain. The other problem of being bald is my head loses a lot of heat man its cold without hair or a wig on.

As of today I'm now bald. Which im glad i have got my collection of wigs.

Just an update since posting this almost to 481k miles and counting.

@Sycostang67 you've been out of the loop quite a while I've expanded my make up quite a bit adding color and the lip stain (bit different from lipstick). My crew for chemo still love the idea. Even outsiders love the look. I comments all the time for my looks. Ive had forum members on the phone walking through a Winco in Boise and have the member ask me to repeat what someone would say for comment to me. As for today I got my labs done. Set a second appt to have my dressings and bags changed today. Being this is really my first time in 5 days doing makeup I tend to default back to basic black. Too much like work when your feeling crappy and lost your edge for smooth straight lines being my hand tend to shake at times. I've got my cheats I do to get by. Then with my hair loss it just easier to wear my wigs than deal with the hair falling out in my face. Yuck!

1. W-T ground wire mod will fix this... 2. Might have to replace the front speakers and the amps. 3. Double check your gauge and any electrical for the pump. 4. Something in the Ignition Off Draw is running. Might check the glovebox light possibly?

Just remember to paint your bare metal. Bare metal will rust and make for bad grounds.

Fuel table is selectable but I'll warn that if you are attempting for efficiency then you should be 100% or less for fuel table. I typically ride in my defuel table between 0 and 5 PSI. I can climb 7% grades without using any additional fuel above 100% even on higher levels. Hence why temperature are lower. Even while running 200°F thermostat. Thermal dynamics basically states greater differential between temperature will make them attract to each other. So cold is attracted to heat and heat is attracted to cold. The whole idea is reduce the amount of heat dumped in coolant and oil.