Mopar1973Man

No clamps needed.

It does because of volume of the bigger pumps like AirDog or FASS. Remember you only burn rough between 0 and 10 GPH. The rest of the volume of fuel is return as long as there is 14 PSI or more behind the overflow valve. I'm running 14 to 20 PSI. AirDog 150 base with a AirDog 165 pump (4G). Big part of the return happens at the AirDog but since fuel is making multiple passes the fuel gets polished in the 3micron filter on my AirDog. Typical VP44 will last about 250k to 350k miles.

Bad product. Marvel Mystery Oil Rated at 678 HFRR score which is not an improvement at all. I'm on the side of I don't trust Blue Chip being he does sell used PSG units. A certified rebuilder can't sell a used PSG.

Gotta double check. Are you testing after the truck has been driven and fully warmed up? You need to take the truck out fully warm up the engine allow the battery to recharge and get the grid heaters turned off. This will skew the results being a grid heater solenoid can produce a jump like you call out 08 mV AC just from the solenoid magnet collapsing from the disconnect of the power. At the same time when you start your test did you leave the engine running and not shut down and restarted? This is why you leave the engine running because now if you are shutting down and restarting the engine even a warm engine and IAT is even above 60*F it's possible for the PCM to read the battery temperature which might be low in temperature and trigger grid heaters on the next start up. Again this will skew results.

All compressor jobs I've ever done always has the sticker over the hole that you add the oil to. On the 2nd Gen Dodges both 12V and 24V the oil is added in the side of the body. There is a plug in the side of the body and this places the oil in the right place. Never add oil in the lines always add the oil to the compressor in the side port. So the compressor has to be evacuated and pull the compressor and lay it on its side to fill the oil in the body of the compressor. Then the plug was replaced and snugged up. Now you can install the compressor. If there was trash or as we call it Black Death in the high-pressure side. The entire system requires a flush of all the debris. Most compressor rebuilders require a whole host of parts to be replaced as well. The condenser is going to be full of metal and debris. Orfice tube / Expansion Valve should be replaced because the filter or the valve will be plugged up with debris. There are filters inside the accumulator that should be replaced too because of debris settling in the bottom. Then all lines of the system are blown out with an expensive A/C line flush. Secret you can use Lacquer Thinner too but I will admit either way you will need to change the oil in your vacuum pump in any case. When you pull a vacuum the solvents will turn gaseous and come out into the oil of your vacuum pump. Contaminate your vacuum pump oil.

For the most part correct. The Bosch 815 test stand is about $600k dollars for one stand which does take 3 hours to test and calibrate the New PSG unit on top. If a vendor will not tell you where your pump was rebuilt and if the rebuilder is a Bosch Certified I would not buy a pump from them no matter how cheap they can make the price. I still see a lot of this going on where places are selling super cheap pumps that seem like they are good rebuilds but fail shortly after warranty. This is why I ask any vendor I deal with... "Where is the pump rebuild with what company?" "Is this shop a certified Bosch Rebuilder with a test stand in the shop?" I can say since I ask questions and only buy a quality pump that has been on the test stand I've seen my pumps last like OE was barely 48k miles. The second Pump I got from the warranty of the Dodge dealer lasted another 243k miles after the AirDog 150 fuel pump. Now I bought a 3rd pump from Diesel Auto Power some time ago during my Mom's medical problems. I'm still on that pump to this day. I'm now at 470k miles and getting ready to land on earth after a trip to the moon and back. (Total distance is 476k) VP44 is rock solid pump only if you take care of the things below that could kill a VP44... 1. Good fuel pressure and volume - 14 PSI to 20 PSI to keep the overflow valve open to keep the VP44 PSG electronics cooled and the mechanical stuff lubed up with fresh cooled fuel. Make sure you not pulling fuel from inside the sender basket it tends to be much hotter than the rest of the fuel being the sender has all the heater fuel from the head. 2. Good Filters or double stacking - Like myself, I've got an AirDog 150 and got a 3-micron filter on the AirDog, and running a 7-micron NAPA filter in the stock fuel filter can. This catches more debris than anything. Being I'm not pumping from the sender basket my filter last much longer at close to 60k to 70k miles on a filter change. 3. Good Lubricity - This is where the 2 Cycle Oil Theory got started being the LSD diesel was being replaced by ULSD diesel which the lubricity dropped to as low as 636 HFRR and Bosch requires <460 HFRR to be non-damaging. The US made the standard ~520 HFRR which is still too low. If you add a 128:1 ratio of 2 cycle oil to the fuel you'll reduce pump wear. 2 cycle oil was tested and came out at roughly 380 to 400 HFRR in the score. So this passes even Bosch requirements. Please do not use solvent-styled additives (Xylene which is a common Pour Point Depressant) like cetane boosters or anti-gel products. These tend to reduce the lubricity and I highly do not suggest blending cetane boosters or anti-gel with 2-cycle oil. After 22 years of living in Idaho with temperatures as low as -40*F, I've never used anti-gel products ever. Never needed cetane boosters either. 4. Clean Power - Yes if you have not done the W-T ground wire mod I highly suggest you do. AC noise will eat PSG and the ECM fairly quickly. Doing this mod will certainly reduce the chances of the PSG failing on the VP44. Anything over a 0.05 AC volt signal is sign of concern!

Test it. Either pull the alternator and have it spun tested. Or find a shop that can do the test on the charging system. The bare minimum would be grab a DVM and measure the AC volts should not be above 0.05 Volts.

Doesn't matter... Do it either way.

Personally I wouldn't do a p-pump on any 24V. I've seen too many trucks converted that end getting parked. Several members here have converted and end up parking the truck. So many things you'll lose and other problems you'll never really over come.

Personally I see several issues with a VGT turbo and where it's located on the engine and why the failures I've been seeing. So far the two this year had burned up controllers and possibly bad bearing/seal issues. How do you expect these turbos to hold up when no one installs a pyrometer and properly cools the turbo after running? How about the fact the controller is tucked in a hot pocket with little cooling. Yeah I know it's got oil and coolant but this doesn't help if the truck is shut down at 600°F EGTs. How about the carbon build up that binds up the vane and cause electrical load issues withe controller trying to move a stuck vane. I highly suggest every run you turn on the exhaust brake and use it every trip. I highly suggest everyone install a quality EGT gauge (pyrometer) and make sure the EGT are down to at least 300 to 350°F before shutting down the engine. Quit buying washable filters or cool air intake so far the ones I've looked at the compressor wheels have been dusted out. Another thing I hear commonly. I want my truck to last so I don't drive it hard. OMG this is part of the problem. You need to work the engine hard enough to get EGTs above 1000°F fairly regular holding that temperature for several miles to burn the carbon out. I've had members tell they ran another person truck hard and ran better after the hard run. Yes it really does help.

I've been busy hauling. Got my first 1.5 cords in full 12 foot lengths. Still got to get more. Beast was out hard at work getting firewood. You see Mark my renter here in the picture. No I didn't forget you guys. I've been organizing things so very soon I can get server work done and things dealt with. Been making phone calls and prepping for the stuff that needs to be handled for the server.

Yeah ATF should not be used it's incompatible with the seals in both the hydrobooster and steering box. I've found a few on the web but not sure if they will fit.

Just make sure you get the slack back. Like I said if you adjust it to the bottom the Allen screw is not going to lift the output shaft with the pitman arm etc. So this why you use a rubber hammer or dead blow to kind of lift that shaft back up a bit to set yor slack. Once you get the 2 turns up from bottom give that a try it should be close.

Guess we need to dig a bit more.

First thing rip that BD noise filter off the truck and toss it in the trash. That is going to burn up your VP44 and ECM. Second off you need to test and replace your current alternator if it's weak or excessive AC noise. Then do the W-T ground wire mod. Takes about 25 dollars and about 1 to 2 hours time. No its going out because of the AC noise filter you installed. You trying to cover up a AC noise issue that is affecting transmission, ECM, PCM and the VP44. Pull the noise filter off and replace the alternator and do the W-T ground wire mod.

Sector adjustment I run the Allen stud to bottom then count 1.5 to 2.0 turns back out. If it will not turn you have to lightly tap on the output shaft with a rubber hammer to allow the Allen stud to lift the shaft weight. That way you are really close to right you can go just a touch tighter but not much. You want just a little free play from left to right.

PCM works off of IAT temperature on the 12V for setting the grid heater to heating. Is the bulb blown? I know the IAT has to report below +60*F to turn on the grid heaters. Wait To Start light should come on every key cycle for a bulb check.

If the PCM is damaged there is no way to get the CCD Bus problem to go away. I would at least do some checking and see if you are getting 2.49 and 2.51 volts on the CCD + and CCD - pins versus ground. This is the normal rest voltage of the CCD Bus after all the modules stop talking. Then the instrument cluster is the device that sets this bias voltage of the bus.

I've seen a 46RE and a 47RE struggle to handle Idaho mountain roads. Both cases run like 15 to 25 MPH running up a narrow single-lane road at grades of 12% to 16% on average and these transmissions are not designed to run unlocked in 2nd gear forever. Lil' Red I've managed to run that transmission rather hot a few times trying to just get to the next pullout so I was not shut down in the middle of the road. I have a few client trucks running hot as well on the same road system. You just can't run 15 to 25 MPH on a dirt road with an unlocked torque converter that is just churring heat out. Auto's were not a good option for towing and climbing long mountain grades. The only way I can see getting around this would be to send your valve body to Dynamic Transmission in WA and have him modify the valve body so you have lock up in every gear. This way you can manually call for lock-up in any gear and that would cut the heat. Manual transmissions hold up to the mountain roads way better than any automatic. Braking resistance is better and coupled with an exhaust brake it's even better. In my two trucks I can drive almost anywhere and not really ever touch the service brakes very much. A good reason I get 200k to 250k miles out of a set of brakes and rotors.

There is a lot going to start happening again here. I know without a doubt I've got to change servers and get on to a server with up-to-date technology again being I've worn another server out to the point it can't be upgraded to current versions. This poses a problem with the new operating system I'm moving to I've never worked with before. Great something all new and different to learn about. Then the new server will have AlmaLinux compared to CentOS 7 Linux. Then Almalinux doesn't have WHM/cPanel server interface which Almalinux will move over to InterWorx for a control panel. This is going to take me some time to do. Yeah, I've got to move very soon being the software is warning that no longer updating software and that time is running out. I'm going to most likely have some ups and down days with the changeover and configuring and relearning a whole new system. Then I found out that Invision Power Board which is my software provider is ditching 3rd party marketplace and no longer going to host 3rd party software under their roof at Invision Power Board. I now have to figure out how to handle all the 3rd party software I've got on the website right now. Then I've got articles to build and winter time coming. First I've got to say I'm closing down on my jobs I've got a few loose ends left to handle but no biggy. I'm also working on getting my winter's wood brought in. As soon as I've got these few things done I'm planning on being anchored to this keyboard here at home. I've got 4th Gen articles to build I've got a few articles to build for 3rd Gen trucks. I've got new vendors and shops to add to my list here. I've got a lot to do this winter.

Sensor is replaceable there is a article in the fuel section with the part number. I know that @dieselautopower has a full module replacement too.

Both are correct. If a bad pressure regulator check ball or valve it's possible to bounce of the needle. Another one that the lift pump could do is if it does not have air separation like AirDog or FASS it's possible to see air bubbles being passed along by the pump like the stock lift pump or Raptor or DDRP series pumps that don't have air separation systems. This could stem from poor suction lines back to the tank and it will continue to draw air into the inlet of the pump and continue to bounce because of air being pulled in. I've seen stock fuel baskets the plastic tube does crack open and suck air in while the fuel level is lower than the crack in the tube in the sender. The bad sensor could do it as well. Being mine when it finally failed last month it was a bouncy needle and then started to rise till it was pegged out showing 30 PSI. I've got many years of service out of that one electronic sensor for fuel pressure on my ISSPro EV2 series.

I had another VGT turbo to replace on a 3rd Gen Truck. Still not an easy task for truck owners to do. First off I have been getting my replacement rebuilt turbos from @dieselautopower and they have turbos in stock that are already calibrated and ready to install. Now like any other turbo install we have to remove all surrounding tubing and air ducts hooked to the turbo. The air filter and air intake all get removed and the discharge tube goes to the intercooler. Next step you might want to drain the coolant down. Yup, there is a coolant line between the turbo and they are on both top and bottom. The bottom two connections are a pain in the rear to get at. I'm going to give away a secret take a crowbar and push that heat shield right up against the engine mount. Remove both the oil and coolant supply top side) and oil and coolant returns (bottom of the turbo). Remove the rear elbow on the exhaust in this case I only detached the exhaust elbow and had plenty of room to get free and out of the way. Now the last step on the turbo is the 4 nuts holding the turbo to the exhaust manifold. These are stainless nuts and my magnetic induction wand doesn't work on those. Back to propane torch and PB blaster. Now you going to find out there is no way to get the turbo off the studs of the manifold because there is no room for the turbo to drop far enough to clear the studs. Now here is where most people might come up short. I break the passenger side engine mount loose and then using a cherry picker lift the engine from the front engine mount just enough that the turbo can be removed and lifted out of that tight pocket the turbo sits in. So tool-wise wise everything can be done with standard tools. I will warn I've seen a video where people change VGT turbos by cutting the studs off with a saw-all and then deal with the stud removal later after the turbo is removed. I'd rather not make a bigger mess and have to cut these and just lift the engine a little bit and gain the room needed to change the turbo.

3.30:1 final ratio with an extra tall 4th gear at 0.68 compared to manuals at 0.75 or 0.73. This is a huge amount of stress on clutches and bands.

Well if your running stock tires or smaller then you could opted for quick ratio steering box through Blue Top Steering. Don't attempt to use a quick ratio with larger than stock tires it will damage the steering box. You could get a rebuild kit for your steering box and rebuild it yourself. Not hard to do but if there is any damaged parts your going to need to contact Blue Top for said damaged parts.