Mopar1973Man

Have you checked the wheels for being true? Have you pulled both driveshafts and had them checked for true and balanced? Have you checked both front and rear wheel bearings for any sloppy bearings?

I would suggest you have the ABS computer reflashed with the proper tone wheel size and then rev/mile of your current tires. First off measure your AC noise voltage from the alternator after it has been driven and full warmed up. It should measure less than 0.05 Volts AC. Be aware you need a quality DVM that can measure small AC Voltages and multi-frequencies. Being fully warmed up, to ensure the grid heaters are off. Keep the engine running so the restart doesn't trip the grid heater again. I would highly suggest you do the W-T ground wire mod. You really need to get the TCC to lock up. Without the TCC working, you could create a lot of fluid temperature, so be careful. I really wonder if the noise issues is so bad the filter can get it to shift correctly.

I had to make a return trip and try to find the right wiring for a 2006 Dodge Ram. The weird part is that a 2005 tail light loom has different plugs than the 2006 main plug. The 2007 loom is totally different and is missing the white/tan lead for brake light, assuming that there is a turn signal stalk that cancels and supplies the brake signal down the turn signal lead like typical. Nope, Thor is different, where he has a separate tail light bulb for a brake light. Being I cannot get a 2006 loom for the tail lights at this time, I'm going to hack this up and make it work being right now the 2007 loom actually works perfectly for everything but brake lights. Since the white/tan lead is there, I can adapt the new plug that fits a sealed beam tail light. This is going to be fun too. 🤨

Check your PCM power wire for BD noise filter and remove it. Make you have a solid 12V at the power wire of the PCM. One other member @pepsi71ocean had this problem cause by a poorly installed BD noise filter.

Not lift pump relay the Vp44 relay.

Thank you! 😁

Fuel pump relay is in the PDC which controls power the the VP44 injection pump. Yes a bad relay will set a P1689 code if the relay is bad or no power given to the VP44.

Try unhooking the Quadzilla CANBus lead. See if the Quadzilla causing the CANBus to fail. Another to check the fuel pump relay it could cause this P1689 bad power contacts.

My adventure with Thor was similar. I was having injector issues. Just got to make the first step and call and see what @dieselautopower can do for you.

My last one was a Ford Pickup, and I laid waste to him at about 110 MPH running Beast. Yeah, these trucks can run and really pull like a mule. Beast I just tucked in the garage today for his long nap. Beast can sometimes fry the tires just by accelerating up to highway speeds, like getting up to 80 to 85 MPH for I-84 here in southern Idaho. Now I'll tell you engine heat will not affect the PSG. If you take a look at... The top lid has an air space between the top and the PSG circuit board. The PSG circuit board is actually heatsinked to the fuel side, hence why I asked about the fuel temperature being high. Fuel temperatures will be hard on the PSG, and also the fuel being above 140℉ or 150℉, you'll see your fuel filter plug up faster with asphaltenes.

You might end up eating that VP44 but just maybe... I'll leave the lights on for ya and just post up.

Depends on the location of the straw for the temperature. Hopefully, your straw is in the main fuel tank and not the sender basket. I'm assuming you are in the main tank area, being the 1/8 tank drop in pressure on hard sloosh. That would net you cooler temperatures in the fuel, being the hot fuel is kept in the sender basket. Is your warranty still good on the VP44 pump?

If possible, maybe you could try unhooking the wire tap and see. No need to remove the entire splice, just unhook the wire. I think it's a heat issue on the PSG. By chance, what does the Quadzilla show for fuel temperatures?

Did you do a W-T ground wire mod? Not good to leave a battery out. I know these trucks will run on a single battery but the passenger side typically is the source of ground for VP44, ECM, and PCM. W-T ground mod would move it to the driver-side ground for the VP44 and ECM but the PCM is still on the passenger cable. No such thing as a rebuild PSG unit. It's either USED or NEW. Sadly rebuild PSG is a poor choice being that it most likely not calibrated to your pump. The other part is Bosch Certified Rebuilt pumps it is a REQUIREMENT to replace the PSG with a new unit and be calibrated on the test stand. Most likely a bad solder joint in the repair of the PSG and the heat is causing a solder joint to open up. Yeah, I've seen a ton of people doing transistor replacements and weird home repairs but did they ever calibrate the repaired PSG to the mechanical part of the pump? No. This where problems start.

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