Mopar1973Man

One of the few reason I'm not fond of the 2003 and newer trucks I've seen everything from A/C that are from the TIPM, turn signals and headlight issues from TIPM, wiring is way different on the 3rd Gens on up. More difficult to diagnose electrical issues being its not +12V signals like older generations. It all digital signal that controls the truck. Just an example there is like 10 wires on the turn signal switch for wipers, turn signal, washer pump, etc. On 3rd Gens there is only 5 wires and done all digitally.

Yeah using general speak being out here it all 32 to 37 inch tires on 3,55 gears and wondering why there truck has excessive EGT's and low MPG's. More common issue that most think here. Now there is members here like @IBMobile that run the 245/75 R16 on 4.10 gears which is way good for towing placing final ratio at 4.28:1 to the ground. Talk about a towing monster.

For your setup to get that inch down... I ran this size on my old 1996 Dodge 1500 (Lil' Red) and ran great and increased the MPG's. Lighter rotational mass and less rolling resistance. Here is the alternate wider size which still fits your dually. This is the size I'm running on Beast now and no issues. Great offroad performance and great traction on the ice. So you coming from a 235/85 R16 tire this would give you the 3.70 ratio. The magic tire size that is listed on EVERYONE door tag but no one wants to even use...

@JAG1 Yes and no. Yes I love the electronics because there is more precise timing and fuel control over the old mechanical pumps. Even the P7100 pump has no timing advancement at all, which is a static timed pump which is the part why no. Electronics make diagnosing easier being the ECM/PCM provide clues to what has gone wrong. When mechanical system like the 12V you on your own to figure out why your truck doesn't start so now you have to test everything because there is no help from a computer. This is one of the reason I fell in love with the Cummins over my 1972 Dodge I own before. No computers and diagnosing weird ignition issues some times you would miss the actually problem, in one case I had a burned hole through the rotor which you couldn't see. Black plastic... Just keep in mind when there is a error code present typically its going to be electrical in nature typically. There is a few like the P0216 code which is design to measure how long the pump took to advance or retard timing if it can't do it in a small slice of time then the code is thrown. So imagine if you didn't have the electronics and the timing piston froze up in full retard and white smoke was heavy would you know its the VP44, bad injector, etc.? How about if the timing piston froze full advanced and was difficult to start and knocked really loud and very low power would you know the VP44 had a bad timing piston? Most likely not... So electronics are a good thing...

Like with drum brakes I always just pull every thing off one at a time and lay it out exactly like it came off in front of the axle. Then one by one replace parts by matching parts up and then putting them back together the way the came off. Another example is when I do injectors on a 3rd gen you need to pull all the exhaust rockers off. To save time and trouble I lay each rocker out on a rag cover board in the exact order they were in the engine this way you don't have to readjust the lash on assembly. Typically I check them but always within the wide Cummins lash specification.

If one doesn't know something someone else will I'll admit freely I don't know everything.

Basically comes down to @Great work! ability to make the software rich enough to allow easy reprogramming of the timing and fuel tables.

Biggest thing that qould capture my attention to remove all ECM limitation for fuel and boost mapping. If it could be expanded to say 100 PSI of boost and create a fuel map that would cover that wide boost table.

Stock lift pump lead from the ECM has no relay and is power directly through the ECM. If there is issues with the lift pump circuit the ECM needs to be sent to @Auto Computer Specialist for inspection and repair. This is one reason I like the AirDog fuel system because it uses a protection relay and ECM is only used to trigger the relay. Any fuel pump that directly powers from the ECM is bad idea. When the pump has issues like locked rotor the amperage load will spike and damage the ECM. Oh little secret I'm going to release a AirDog install video soon. I just finish the video work for the draw straw. It's on my laptop and needs a bit of editing.

Weird... ive must of jump started hundred of rigs with my setup never popped a breaker or the PCM protection fuse 5A on the alternator blue wire.

Remember the adjustment on the cable is not used ot take up slack oin the shoes the starwheel should be used for that. The cable adjustment is to take the cable slack out that's all if you adjust the cable and you see the cables pull at all then you over adjusted and will have shortened pull and possibly dragging the rear brakes unnecessarily.

Make sure that adjuster is installed correctly if you reverse it it will unscrew completely. Don't ask me how I know.

There is a lot that can be done on that tune. Final ratio does have huge difference in the way power gets to the ground and how much heat is generated in engine, transmission and rear axle.

Economy speaking you shouldn't be over 100% till after 15 PSI at the earliest kind of like running the secondary on a carb all the time (not efficient). Timing is all wrong too and over advanced creating negative torque being that advanced. (Again not efficient) No retarding state so spooling is poor.

When you get the new hardware kit for the drums.better do both sides. Now that cable is a fixed length as the shoes expand out too far it will cause the adjuster arm to rotate the star wheel upward as your looking at it.

Sorry to say that tune is not very efficient. There is many problems with it.

3.73 is about the best you can get for towing and daily use economy wise. 3.55 is good but getting wee bit low for cruising RPM personally. I don't per se race so top speed doesn't matter. What does matter is being close to 2,000 RPM at 65 MPH. Just for info Thor is a true 3.73 on stock 265/75 R16 so it's about 2100 RPM at 65 MPH.

I just had a good conversation with @Hutch24v just a bit ago. He's looking to squeak out just a bit more MPGs out of his truck. Again he's another person with improper ratios and EGT's are higher and fuel usage as well. He's running 285's and 47RE transmission which 4th gear is 0.68 vs. my 5 speed at 0.75 so it down lower in the final ratio. I'm going to try and help out and look at both of his tunes and hopefully get him the MPG he need to survive the "Biden Energy Crisis" which is affecting all of us like here its $6.029 for diesel in New Meadows when I rolled through this morning. For optimal cruising RPM for 65 should be close to 2,000 RPM's. Like I mention to Hutch24v if your EGT's are below 600*F your doing better than 20 MPG. If your EGT's are higher than 600*F then your lower than 20 MPG. Just a rule of thumb for guessimate on MPG. Just consider at 65 MPH your consuming at least 3.25 gallons of fuel per hour for 20 MPG.

Thanks... I'm going to be posting little things like this of @Honey Badger and I trips out in the back country and stuff like that. Might wanna spread the word of TikTok, Instagram, Facebook because I'm going to be posting to these more and more.

I know this a common issues for guys adding wheels and oversized tires but to show a quick clip of running down the pavement semi-flat ground at 66 MPH and the tach shows a prefect 2,000 RPM's. The EGT floats today about 600*F, and boost is about 3-5 PSI. Had to try mounting to the side window and see if the GoPro could do it. I found out the LED lighting screws with the frame rate with the flashing displays which its not actually doing.

Just for info purpose here is the link to the TikTok page for the website... https://www.tiktok.com/@mopar1973man

All truck have either a fuse or fusible link. Would suck big time if the alternator short out and burn that charge lead and possible fire.

You guess it. Yup your right.

https://www.tiktok.com/@mopar1973man/video/7117491575768304942?_t=8Tmzg5A8pqA&_r=1 After doing the Quick Update video I mounted the camera on the windshield and cranked up the music and rolled out.

I've got the reset-able 150 breaker for 5 years now no issues.