oldschool

Ok that sounds good. I'm a bit confused, the Air Dog pump is mounted on the frame just ahead of the tank. I'm pushing fuel to the engine. If the suction from the tank is in question doesn't the Air Dog remove air from the suction line from tank and return the air back to the tank?

That is correct, I have an Air dog and removed the stock filter and fuel heater. It's all Air dog now. Air leaks are possible. I was just looking into that with research. Good call. The other possible on the same note may be the tank vent. Fuel pressure gauge is above 30 psi steady. What's the best way to check for air leak? I hope you're right about the IP. This truck is in need of a transmission and some other mods. It's going to cost. I've got to give the truck credit, this truck never let me down and I've hauled so much weight and so powerful with low fuel consumption. Now I'm just using it on the farm until I figure it out plus time and $. My "replacement vehicle" a 1990 suburban 2500 4X4 w/ a 6.2 diesel is such a dissapointment in comparison. It's offensive to even say comparison with the Dodge.

It doesn't shut off quick like with a key. It takes 5-10 seconds. Sounds like its missing and choked off. As far as loading up I thought It was possible the lockup convertor (that is no good) was doing this but it seems that it would need to be in gear for that failure to stall. It's been increasingly very hard to start even in warm weather. I have to give 1/4 throttle to help. On warm or cold re-starts I have the same thing. I'm thinking the injector pump may be ready to change.

I'm having similar problems with my truck. Just a note: On the drivers side battery ck the pos connections if I remember correctly a blue wire. ck for corrosion. That is power wire to the shut down solenoid relay. If the solenoid is the issue you could start there.

I got out there and ran the engine for about 20-30 minutes and no stall. I shook the linkage around and pushed the stop lever laterally just in case it can go off the stop. I moved the throttle back and forth and multiple times pushed in the return direction trying to stall it. No dice. It did'nt even stall today. I'll keep trying and re-post if I find something. Thanks for the help

Yea, I"ve got about 850 in park. It stalls out in park too. I could recheck the throttle stop. A few years back I raised it to get the proper rpm. I'm the original owner and only did it once because I noticed wear on the stop causing low rpms. It's definately worth eye balling. It would be good to rule out something moving around or maybe a problem with the stop. That's a good lead. Thanks.

The truck has no codes. The idle is steady and normal. I started it cold @ temp of about 50 degrees and it held a strong idle. I only recall the stall condition after warmed up sporadically. I didn't wait for a stall condition yet to monitor the tach.

Nice. I'll try pulling codes tomorrow.

I dont know if there are codes. Can I pull them with a regular reader? I thought the crank sensor only gave me a signal for the tach. I thought the only way electrically to shut this motor was through the shut down solenoid via mechanical linkage. Maybe when It goes to stall I could also monitor what the tach does. Thanks YabbaDoo.

Thanks MnTom, like I said above, it held steady. I had my hand on it one time when it stalled and nothing moved. I recently replaced it with a bigger solenoid from Larry's along with the relay. If I'm quick I can hit the throttle and keep it running. I could always recheck to double check. I'm scratching my head with this.

I've had it stick and not return especially after sitting for long periods. I've sprayed it with lubricant and all good.

My engine stalls @ idle increasingly. It also did it on the highway when I backed off the throttle to switch interchanges several times already. It's been dangerous putting it to neutral @ 50 mph or whatever road speed I find myself to restart the engine. If I start it up cold and leave it idle, it will stall within 10 to 15 minutes. If I catch it floundering I've given throttle and saved it from stalling. When this condition occurred I've seen my fuel pressure steady @ 30psi before during and after. I have an Air Dog pump with a big draw tube with that kit. I also confirmed that the shut down solenoid holds steady. I changed out the fuel filters. In recent months the engine has been hard to start and getting worse. I've been writing that off as factory injectors @ 135,000 miles. I cant see how that it would be idling strong and stall on injectors. The stock automatic transmission finally hit an impasse as the lockup converter chatters and slips. I can't accelerate hard or tow anything in lockup. I can't see that failure stall the engine in park or neutral, but it's an issue. At this point I'm thinking it might be the injector pump. I'm really stumped. I could use help with this. Thank you

On level ground set parking brake and chock wheel. Engine off, ignition on. Shift lever in reverse position. Check circuit. - - - Updated - - - Yes, it should prove the fuse and wiring to be good. The VT/BK wire for the back up lamps (on my 1997) has a splice after the branch to the R/R lamps then proceeds with 2 seperate VT/BK wires for the back up lamps.

SNKEBIT, sorry its sideways. I hope this info is helpful to you.

Did you do an ohm ck on the IAT sensor?

Excellent info on caps. I like the price too. Thanks Jag1.

Good luck!

Got it. Nice work. good luck.

I bought mine @ discountmirrors.com . The brand is kool-vue. The price for power and heated was cheap but I found the quality of kool-vue as good as OEM. Good luck

Vacuum will pull back on prime. Pressure will assist prime. On my truck I have room to reach the module with my hands. Maybe you can inspect the vent.

Try checking both batteries @ the connections to make sure they didn't loosen. (Saw similar problem in post on mopar1973man)

Wouldn't that put the tank into a vacuum? and what about the tank vent?

Those base supports are key. There should be no flex with them behind the door panel. Mine aren't fancy but they work.

Good news on the WTS light. I forget how my module is vented but it should not be a large pressure vacuum difference. Try with the cap off to start.......Good luck.

Large amount of air movement doesn't sound good. Maybe the tank isn't vented right. Try loosening the cap before starting. The WTS light SHOULD have been on. Your air intake sensor may be unplugged corroded or bad. The computer takes this reading and alternates between heater relays on energize output.