oldschool

If you checked the track bar properly, don't second guess that. There are many more checks to make. If you haven't changed the stabilizer shock, that can go in the trash. Check for play in the steering box and column shaft. Jack it back up and re-check for movement. One wheel on the ground and have someone shake the steering wheel, then both wheels off the ground supported by chassis. Push the front end around by hand/ large pry bar carefully. For the heck of it ck for rusted control arms and/or worn bushings. Get a good light and inspect for cracks or anything out of the ordinary. At this time you can re-check the ball joints and track bar for S****& giggles @ no extra cost. You can also check the rear including cracked leaf springs. Take your time. Don't rush yourself. Good luck. It was a great feeling when I tightened up my F/end. It took me some time too.

I believe the window is epoxyed to the channel. If there's significant resistance in the downward motion, the bond may release. Below 32 degrees there can be frozen resistance @ the window gaskets etc. I try to remember to leave my windows cracked open just a bit in cold weather so I can go UP to release the frost or ice etc. if I'm too impatient to wait. I've had the gasket come up with the window too. I just pushed it back in place. I hope I'm correct that you only need to remove the door panel and re-epoxy the channel. You need a mild temperature, (heated garage etc.) clean surface and the best quality epoxy. good luck

The worst offenders on my truck were the track bar and stabilizer shock.

Electrically the pump doesn't go through the ECM( If that is what was implied or additional cause and effect). It's a seperate add on. I would rule it out unless it was run through a factory system harness. It should be independent of any other wiring. It does have a relay or two. On my pump it runs on ignition and start at a constant. My neighbor has a pump only system and I believe it runs on demand @ pressure only. It may be a raptor. It wouldn't hurt to check the 12 volt source. I wired mine through the fuse panel. You can always contact Airdog too.Another thing to check would be the fuel shut off solenoid and relay. It has to pull all the way in to start. Use a mirror or have someone crank it for you. Good luck.

That's good advise and a good time to check for more wiggle wiggle going on.

No you don't have to look over your shoulder if it's going to happen again. Thanks for the update.

Did you isolate the bad fuse? It would be nice to know what made it short.

Open drivers side door to locate. I'm attaching a pic of the outside cover.

It should be in the cab. I have a 1997 and its by the drivers side door hinge on the dash and covered by the door when closed. It may also be in front of your left knee when sitting on the lower portion of dash Just a guess) I dont know 2001.

I got the impression I was overpowering the converter. I have some hauling to do very soon. I hate to do it but I may have to slide the fuel plate back for now. I appreciate the Goerend link.

I went full throttle to check. I went up hill loaded. I had no issues until it went into full lockup in low range and throttled up. It appears load related not rpm. I also checked @ highway in full lockup loaded. Same results. I back off @ chatter because it appears to slip while banging. I have no other symptoms that I notice.

I'm getting bad chatter in full lock after I moved the fuel plate, adjusted the starwheel and turned in the smoke screw. I was hoping that if I drove easy I could avoid this. It's hard to feather the skinny pedal to avoid it. I backed off the starwheel and think it may be a little better with the slower transition of fast power. I was looking at a Banks billet torque converter and a B-D flexplate. Can someone tell me if I'm on the right track, if there are better brands/compatability/options. Thanks.

This is a cool subject. I'd like to know how best protect our rides. Back to my friend with the van, he added many grounds. He even added a ground to where the ABS sensor goes to ground the spindle. Engine to chassis and now chassis to rear axle. Is this overkill or is there a scientific solution? Also, do static straps apply to this?

My neighbor has a 99 dodge van and went through multiple front wheel bearing sets. Just last week the rear end bearings and unit failed. The conclusion was insufficient grounding. If this topic was covered here I appologize. I was curious as to what points the ground straps should be checked and/or added. I find this topic intriguing. How it applies to all vehicles and my 97 pickup 4x4 in particular has me scratching. Thanks

I got it off ebay from a pawn shop like brand new. These OTC sets can cost if you're on a budget. Look them up. I'll also look up an OTC set on the net for prices when I get a chance. I have some harbor freight impact sockets that I love. That's a great option. In any case keep the screw on the tool greased.

OTC# 7249 3 in 1 service set. I updated last night but I see it never went thru. I was gone for a week. Just got back from the road last night. High winds and snow. About 7-8 hours to go 300 miles. I ran out to the barn last night and got the tool set. Sorry the pics are sideways.

Yea, that neti pot is great. I see you know what's best. Stay well and good luck with the car. If I think of something interesting I'll chime in.

Just got back home from the road. You need anti-biotics at a minimum. If you havn't yet, SEE A DOCTOR NOW. you can die from the airborne viruses from vermin. Green is a bad color to begin with for real. This is no joke and I'm not trying to preach but I worked on garbage trucks and landfill eq. for many years. The car: I would wear a resperator and safety glasses. Try to blow out what you can with compressed air then flush case with bleach mix solution. Passenger side rug color will run if you leave it in place. Shower and wash clothes. If anyone else has an idea please help.

Definately. It's out in my barn. I'll be up late working on the oil burner. If I get a chance, I'll go out tonight and post the #s. If not then in the morning.

I have an OTC model. Have lubrication on the screw and choose the right spacer with the kit. Wear safety glasses. They say to put the plug back in the uppers after greasing the joints because of clearance to the axle u joint. I put a short straight grease fitting instead and use a different side angle tip on my grease gun. sometimes I need to rotate the wheel to get the sweet spot.Good luck.

"Well it hasnt always made this noise" "but the noise just recently started"

Ok........ New noise and what he said.

The conditions may be right for turbo bark but brandon-01 said "it sounds like a squealing type of noise". Turbo bark would be more of a chatter. On the same note, the truck could have a BOV. If that's the case, all is well.

Yea, that would be passenger side for sure.

Close the right side window. Just kidding. Possible throw out bearing? Need more info on when exactly the noise occurs. After letting off the fuel pedal, depressing fuel pedal, stepping on the clutch, releasing the clutch.