NWMontanaMan

5/0 is bigger than 3/0. More zeros means bigger wire. I found this after more digging over at cf: http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-non-powertrain/458856-battery-terminals.html I think that's the route I'll go. I just need to get the right lugs.

I am replacing the batteries in my truck (they were very dead when I tried leaving for work this morning). I also need to replace the terminals as they are pretty beat up. I don't have a wire gauge tool but by my measurements based on copper diameter tell me the positive crossover between the batteries as well as both negative cables are 3/0 (000) and the positive between the starter and driver side battery is 5/0 (00000). Can anyone confirm this? That starter cable is certainly large! I'm having a bit of a time even finding a terminal that size. I'm all ears if you've got suggestions. Thank you very much!

Thanks for the knowledge! May I ask why the fuel pressure needs to be mechanical? It seems that ISSPro only does electric pressure gauges.

Actually, the DMV lady in my county said Montana isn't currently requiring double clutching on the CDL test. Not sure how long it'll last; regs change all the time. But I thought it was cool they realized no one really does that.

Okay, thanks! That's kinda what I was thinking but I just wanted to make sure.

First of all, that is some classic cinema right there. Also, I don't know any truckers that bother with the clutch outside of starting and stopping. The RPMs have to match whether using the clutch or not so its easier to not. On the 18 speed I drive I'll usually pull it out around 13-1400 and it drops right in to the next gear. I don't increase the RPM I up shift at like the video said. Same shift point all the way up. And what he said about kid gloves is right on; if you have to give it any more than finger pressure you're just gonna break something. It should just drop right in shifting up and down.Downshifting is the opposite of upshifting. Let the RPMs come down, pull it out of gear, rev up to match gear speeds, and drop it in. This is where you have to learn the feel of your specific truck. On the 18 speed a hard downshift will drop in around 1800 and come out about 1500. With the Jake on full blast that'll slow you down in a hurry. A gentler downshift would be to let it come down to 1200 and rev up to 1500 to get back in the next gear down. But like I said, your truck will likely shift different. You just have to learn to listen to the RPMs and get that muscle memory in your foot of how much movement it takes to get those 300 revs. Practice, practice, and practice!:thumbup2:Hope that was helpful.

That's pretty ingenious on the transplanter tool! A lady from church is sharing her 1+ acre garden and orchard with me this year since the wife and I are are renting. We get raspberries coming up all over in there! We've gotten close to 50 quarts of strawberries already this year. Raspberries and some seriously loaded blueberry bushes will be coming on soon. I'm discovering I enjoy gardening at least as much, if not more than, working on my truck!

My truck had an intake and 4" exhaust on it when I got it so my next step is gauges. Gonna go with Isspro ev2 boost, pyro, and fuel pressure but I'm not sure on the ranges I should go with. Boost I'm thinking 0-40 psi since my turbo is stock and I have no plans to upgrade. Pyro seems like 0-1600 is standard. Fuel pressure is where I'm unsure. I know I don't want the pressure getting too low, but what is the high end of where a stock fuel system runs? Also, will that change if/when I get a FASS/Airdog installed? Thanks!

Man, those guys think they own the highway around these parts. They won't get out of they way for nothing! The DOT even has those portable electronic reader board signs up on the highway to warn folks.

That's great! I love living in Montana!

My buddy and I chased 3 wolves up a logging road near my house last summer (we were in his truck, not on foot!). My buddy had a wolf tag in his wallet but they took off down a draw before we caught up to them. They were FAST and didn't much like the idea of being anywhere near us humans.Another friend of mine traps and got a couple on my neighbors ranch this winter. We hear them howling over there all the time. They are definitely around but very rarely seen.Here in Montana, as long as a weapon isn't covered by clothing it's not concealed. So vehicles (visible or not), purses, etc. are all constitutional (open) carry and don't require a permit. Most folks who conceal don't bother with a permit anyway.

In auto diagnosis, sometimes we'd find it easier to eliminate variables rather than go off of measurements. If you try using a different extension cord and it doesn't trip, you know it was the cord. With the rest of the system, it gets more difficult to substitute, but still possible. You can bypass the bumper plug to rule that out. Maybe use some relatively heavy gauge (so, not speaker wire you happen to have lying around) wire to run from the extension cord to the actual heater to bypass the block heater cable. And so on until you determine the culprit part. Hope that helps.

Oooooooooooooohhhhhhhhhhh man! One more reason to get a 5 or 6 speed swap going!

Okay, I think the log sale was what I'd heard about. Yeah, don't even get me started about EPA emissions bull pucky.

I was under the impression that taking wood from burn areas was a no-no? Maybe that's just Montana? Or someone who doesn't know what they're talking about.

An oil pan heater is another option. Silicone pad types work nice, or magnetic if you want something removable. Plug that in on a timer and you'll be sittin' pretty on those cold mornings!

Thanks, guys!

Well, posted a bit on here already but thought I'd come introduce myself. Moved to MT from WA about a year and half ago and found my little Toyota 4x4 wasn't cutting the mustard for things you need a truck for in MT (hauling cords upon cords of firewood, yanking people out of ditches, pulling trailers for equipment, etc.). So, I ended up trading my dad for the truck in my sig with a flatbed car hauler (yes, I'm very aware I came out waaaaay ahead in that deal). It has served me well for the aforementioned tasks, as well as getting me back and forth to work teaching grades 1-8 in a one-room private school. This is my first diesel so I'm still figuring things out here and there. I do have quite a bit of experience on the gasoline side of the auto industry (Bachelors degree in Auto Tech and ASE master certified before I let it expire) so hoping I can help out where I can. Really like this forum and looking forward to getting to know folks and learning all I can!

Yeah, I saw my voltage drop off when the alternator bought the farm, so I was watching it like a hawk after I replaced the brushes. Never really paid that close of attention so must not have noticed it before. I'm sure it had done it before because it wasn't as cold as it had been. I especially liked reading the article from ISX's link-- I ended up reading most of the other articles, too! I'm learning all sorts of neat stuff about my truck!

Okay, I figured it had something to do with the grid heaters. I wonder why I never noticed it happening before?

I replaced my alternator and belt recently and since then I've noticed a weird voltage issue when I start up the truck first thing in the morning. When I first turn on the key voltage comes up to 12V. As the engine cranks it drops momentarily to 8.5-10V, then when the engine is running voltage returns to about 11.5V. It stays there for 10-15 seconds until then the alternator pulls it up to 14V. Then the voltage (and the engine to a lesser extent) starts surging between 12.5 and 14V. This continues for a couple minutes and then things even out where they should be (about 14.5V).I'm confused!

Voltmeter dropped off and "Check gauges" light dinged at me on the way to work yesterday. Got out the ol' voltmeter and tested the alternator-- sure enough, not charging. Just curious about which amperage the stock alternator is (napa has several listed) and if the brushes are replaceable in it or not. My Chilton manual says no, but I was suspicious that may just be to cover their hind quarters against people who have no business inside an alternator.As a side note, I was impressed with how little the batteries drained on the drive home! I guess with no ignition system to be running, there isn't a whole lot of load on the batteries other than the PCM (I kept the lights, wipers, stereo, etc. off).

I measured 21.5 ohms at the plug. Didn't have time to unscrew the cord and look closer at it. It's not real easy to get at!

It's been cold at night here lately so I've been plugging in the block heater. This last week it was quite a bit colder (single digits) and the truck has become significantly harder to start. I tested the extension cord (plugged in a drill) and it's fine. What sort of resistance should I look for on the heater? Does it just have a hard time keeping up when it gets that cold or could it have failed? Before, the valve cover would be noticeably warm when the heater was plugged in, now it's not.

Wow! Thanks for the replies, all! I live in a pretty rural area, but I think there is a scrap metal place close by here. I'll check them out and see what they take/how much.