Gil2264

Checked out your site...looks good, but didn't see much that looked like "in depth diesel guru-age" like this site. About these tractors, they are all full time working farm tractors. The 6405 is probably the hardest working tractor on the farm. Its the mid sized all around tractor. It pulls in most of the loads at harvest time (Now), and good old western PA has plenty of hills to make it work hard. It also does most of the planting, brush hogging, and any other tasks that don't require the 100 hp tractors. It gets plenty of chances to burn out the carbon, but it consistently smokes on down grades. Whats coming out of the stack is plain old raw fuel, same as you get on a frigid morning. Thats why I think fuel is leaking from the injectors at low pressure when it shouldn't be entering the cylinder at all. But thats just a theory.

We have three John Deere tractors. Two 2006 model 6615's and one 2001 model 6405. The 6405 has started blowing large amounts of blue white (unburnt fuel) smoke when going down hill under partial throttle. Now one of the 6615's is beginning to to the same. Pulling the throttle back to idle stops the smoke. I'm kind of suspecting leaky injectors. But I'm not a diesel mechanic. Some of our other older tractors are also beginning to smoke. Should we be adding two stroke oil to their fuel due to the ULSD. Any input would be appreciated.

New fuel pressure problems...I used to have problems with sudden pressure drops, so Installed a Raptor 100 Lift pump. It's worked quite well up until my last 300 mile trip. Now my fuel pressure spikes (up to 30 psi) on long low throttle cruising, and at idle. The electronic fuel pressure sender (Glow Shift) is isolated from the VP inlet by a 16" grease gun hose. Would this seem like enough of a "Snubber", or should I get a needle valve? A buddy of mine has a mechanical fuel pressure gauge. We'll hook it up in a few days and compare readings. I just wondered if anyone else has ever had problems with a Raptor 100 spiking. Idle fuel pressure is set at 15-17 psi.

Funny, I used to haul NRLM (Non-road, Locomotive and Marine (500 PPM-dyed diesel)) to Black Thunder Coal Mine is Wyoming. We'd haul 1 load/day up there for a week, then DRY DRAIN the compartments (stick a metal bucket under the outlets and open the valves to get out any residual AT THE FUEL TERMINAL) then load clear diesel to go to the service stations. There is a site glass on the discharge valve, the fuel always came out clean and clear (Sometimes green) and there were never any problems that i ever heard of with cross contamination. I don't have my handy little cheat sheet here, but I'm pretty sure that company standard practice. I'm not sure why it seems so hard to clean out of the system. On second thought, maybe we had to haul a full load of gasoline before hauling clear diesel. It's been 2 years. Gasoline is a hell of a tank cleaner.

So...get me oriented here. The elbow is the inlet line, the boss to the right of it is where the overflow valve connects? What bolts on over the cavity? The Computer?

I wonder of there's a difference between the the HX, and HY's. I have the HX, and like several other posters here, barely notice a difference, certainly not enough to become annoying on extended trips. Others here seem to notice a huge difference and/or find it enough to be annoying. Maybe i just got used to it from my OTR days.

Verdict...Not worth the 10 min's to install. Itty bitty little puff of smoke when starting from a dead stop, barely visible, and definitely hinders acceleration. Most I could achieve was about 15 psi of boost. P.S. Yes I know, the "I told ya so's" are on the way. But hey, few of us would be on here if we weren't tinkerers.

This can be heard with a smoke switch. Just ramp up the RPM's about 1,200 RPM's and then toggle the smoke switch on and off and listen to the injection rattle. normal MAP will have rattle and force high boost will loose rattle (retarded timing).

Ok, so increased boost/MAPP signal retards timing. I wasn't sure which way it goes. Can't really read the numbers, but it looks like an 8-10 psi reading would give the most aggressive timing curve. Am I reading that correctly? I have noticed that the truck really takes off at about 10 psi. Oh well still something to tinker with. Switched the Puck and Fooler this morning, before taking a hundred mile parts run. Didn't really notice much if any difference, but didn't throw any codes.

That's pretty much what I was thinking. I've posted this question before, but without the graphics. The answer usually came back to plug the fooler into the MAPP sensor first, but there was never an explanation as to why. I'll cross my fingers and give it a try.As for the "smoke switch" I have no real illusions or desires to be "Rolling Coal". I'm Mostly interested in seeing if it adds any low end power, and/or quicker spool up from idle.Of course, it might be nice to puff a little black smoke now and then...Just enough to say "No Dude...It ain't a Hemmi."

I've been around this block before, Which comes first, the puck or the fooler. Here are some diagrams to explain my theories. also, I'm thinking of trying to add a smoke switch, but I seem to be getting two stories 1. the signal voltage INCREASES as boost pressure increases. 2. the signal voltage DECREASES as boost pressure increases. It would also seem that having a Boost Fooler between the "Smoke Switch" and the ECM harness would eliminate the need for a resistor inline with the switch as the fooler should keep you boost signal from getting out of spec.thoughts, theories, b!#@#*$ or complaints welcomed...I have a thick skinA correction on the diagrams: Ignore anything about a smoke switch on Diagram 2, its not in there. I copied pasted and edited the notes from a later page.I would try to make my smoke switch connections on the boost fooler as 1. It has the easiest access to its wires. 2. It is the easiest and cheapest part to replace. [ATTACH]1259[/ATTACH] ECM Wiring Theories.pdf

Raptor and Big Line Kit installed...'Nuff said.

Summer's never coming again...We killed it trying to stop "global warming".

I believe that they changed fuel filter in 99, or 2000. It shows the older style with both the inlet and outlet lines at the top of the filter. On mine, the inlet is on the rear to the filter, and the outlet is on the bottom. You change the filter from the top.

I'm not an engineer, but I sure that there's a reason why almost every 18 wheeler out there uses an inline 6.