joecool911

HAMMERITE® Rust Cap® Hammered Finish paint is a self-priming, fast dry, rust preventive coating designed to provide both interior and exterior long-lasting metal protection. It provides a decorative finish that resists corrosion and the weather. HAMMERITE Rust Cap paint dries to the touch in 30 minutes…recoats should be applied within 4 hours, before curing begins. This versatile paint can be used for a variety of applications – from covering rust to painting lawn furniture, crafts, metal wagons and more. It’s terrific on iron, steel and most metal surfaces. Glassguard Protection As the HAMMERITE Rust Cap coating dries, millions of heat-hardened glass flakes interlock with special resins, forming a super-tough barrier that seals out moisture to prevent rusting. Paint Right Over the Rust HAMMERITE Rust Cap paint is a long-lasting coating that can be applied directly over firm, rusty surfaces. With HAMMERITE’S unique paint-right-over-the-rust capability, you achieve a smooth, deep finish, rich in color. It’s terrific on iron, steel and most metal surfaces. HAMMERITE Rust Cap Hammered Metal Finish provides a high gloss finish and is available in 11 quality, fast dry colors. - - - Updated - - - $10 for a rattle can. It should do the rocker panels. To be safe, spend $20. Masking tape and newspaper to mask off for overspray. I've seen this used on a camper. You will find it hard to sand off. It's really hard and durable. Use it on my utility trailers. Lasts longer than any other rattle can product. Made by Rustolium and available at most hardware or big box stores. Might want to order online if you want something besides white, black, or grey. Grey would look sweet on a white truck. Match bumper rubber. Shiney bubble finish. Kinda like a golf ball, but not geometric. Random bubble. Like a bad chemical reaction to the primer. LoL.

As I mentioned before. I am pretty knowledgable on flow rates through pipes. Limited restrictions (3/8" net) stuck in 1/2" pipe have only a small effect on volume and pressure. By adding a fitting that's say net 3/8" in 1/2" pipe does NOT make the half inch pipe have 3/8 flow. I don't have the friction loss tables for these fittings and hose, but I've calculated many times for PVC pipe. I'm just suggesting that from my knowledge of irrigation friction loss is relevant to this issue. Major restriction in the banjo fittings does make a big difference in available volume.

I asked earlier without comment. What do you guys think of treating the rocker panels with Hammerite paint? Its cheap and really durable and could be retreated (touched up) for $5. Plus it's probably easier to clean than bed liner.

Does the pressure tank have a drain at the bottom? Can't tell what the black thing is. I almost never camp in a park. My trailer is my home base for hunting. I have transitioned over to flourecent and LED lamps. Some of both. Flourecent is nice when you really need light LED when you just need some light or a night light. Also 4 exterior fixtures converted to LED. The big LED's like 120 led bulbs didn't work out from china, but the simple 12/15 led bulbs are doing well. I am also installing a Plat Cat heater. Forced air furnace is a power hog. Vented catalytic heater with a thermostat should be the ticket. Claims it will run for 2 weeks on one battery. No pilot light either. Heats up like our heater plate on truck. 5 amps for 2 minutes. Then .5 amps when running. I did the axle flip this past fall. Gained about 6" in clearance. The liquid rubber roof was a success too. When I bought it all the pipes were frozen. Used Pex pipe and the copper crimp fittings. Very happy with that system and is much less prone to freeze damage. - - - Updated - - - Original tires on rig. They kinda roll under when making a sharp turn in opposing directions. This even when inflated to max pressure, which I believe is 40 psi. Wondering about putting BFG KO's on it like on my truck. 205/75-14. They are like 6 or 8 ply. I've been on some really nasty terrain and have never had a failure with those BFG's. If they are marked as traction devices, can I get by without chains on the trailer?

Are there any mods worth while that will make the travel trailer or even an enclosed cargo trailer more aerodynamic? I've got a 23' Aljo lite. Wondering if a nose cone or truck top wing would be advisable?Also I'm looking into a enclosed cargo trailer for work. I tow about 15k miles a year for work. Wondering if there is an increase in fuel economy to be achieved with a vee nose rather than a flat nose trailer?

I'd be interesting to see what a difference the short piece would make in pressure/volume with elimination of the banjo bolts before changing pump and longer hose to the tank.

I'm a landscaper. I've studied irrigation and the effect on volume of water available through pipe. Concepts apply here too, just not able to say how big is big enough. You are dealing with two factors. Friction loss through pipe and through angle fittings. When you reach a certain point, you can't force any more liquid through pipe without dropping pressure. So bigger is better. Bigger means retaining more of the initial pressure. There is static and working pressure. Pressure measured standing still will be higher than when it's moving due to friction loss. Our trucks have a return line so the fuel is always moving. I'd wonder about increasing the size of the return line too. Right angles also will cause volume loss. Limited restrictions such as a 4" chunk of 3/8 line in the middle of a 1/2" line have a limited effect on volume vs larger restrictions. For this reason, I'd guess that the short run between the fuel filter and the VP is a low priority concern, except for the right angles and banjo bolts. Changing out the fittings will have a higher effect than increasing line size. Rambling thoughts.

To install the 1/2" fuel line you need to get the quick connect off the top of the fuel tank. They call them quick connect, but NOT quick disconnect. Any tips of removing the quick connect? Drop tank? If I drop the tank I should do a draw straw too. - - - Updated - - - Someone told me that a zip tie fastened around the coupler at the release ears will allow the line to come off.

Why stress about the cost of the filter? Even at $76 you'll get 100,000 miles out of it. I walked in and got mine at napa for $42. That was a 6637.

Looking for the best way to re plumb between the fuel filter and the injection pump. I need to include a connection for the fuel pressure gauge and a way to bleed off air from the system following filter change. I like the needle valve concept as a way to shut down the cross connection and act as a snubber. Want to eliminate the banjo bolts. Someone must have pictures. Also sources for the parts would be appreciated.

I'm kinda late on this conversation. I am in process of installing an upgraded pump, but. My truck had 161,000 miles on it with the original VP. I bought it with 142,000 just over a year ago. The guy I bought it from did most all of his own maintenance, but was timely. Changed tranny fluid every 15k , etc.. One thing he told me was to replace the lift pump every two years without fail and you'll not have any problems. This is not empirical evidence, but I do have 161k on the original VP. So I am suggesting that never allowing the stock lift pump to get tired may be a way around the higher pressure/volume this thread is advocating. Michael, I watched the volume pumping video. What was that demonstrating? Stock lift pump vs 150 GPH?

I'd have to be in direct contact with the two opposing metals. I doubt I need to worry about the truck being around as long as the Statue of Liberty.

Not to defy any recommendations so far. I've been told that insufficient toe in adjustment will cause wander. Obviously too much will effect tire wear. Would like to know if this is a viable possibility.

I'd like to know. I like the idea of copper rather than PVC. I'm a landscaper and know PVC very well and can braze copper. My question...without the flex properties of PVC, could I build it out of PVC and pull it back out and make one out of copper using the PVC as a template? No need to glue the PVC, so the fittings won't be wasted. Fittings are the most expensive part of this deal. I just like the looks of copper vs PVC. Plus no worries about heat and melting.

You guys finding the hella relays with diodes? When I was looking I ran into a dead end.

You'd need like a 3,000 watt generator. Don't believe you'll get that from an inverter from any battery. And it would not run long enough off batteries to be feasible anyway. You gotta plug into 110v A/C or a generator.

I got a quote for $417 shipped for a Fass 150. Includes reloacation kit. No filters. I want to use my existing filter system on the block. Will the standard kit allow for this or will I need additional parts? Can I eliminate all banjo fittings? Need to make sure I get all the parts ahead as nothing is available locally and I'll need the truck for my work week.

I've got a couple small imperfections on my rockers. Thinking about using bed liner or some vinyl decal material to cover it up and break it up. Maybe a grass pattern, since I mow lawns for a living. Is the liner hard to keep clean? I'd go with black, since my truck is white.

Is it difficult to change the tie rod ends yourself? Any good links?

When I signed up I saw an option to download an iPhone app for this forum. Now I can't find it. Any help and is it worthy?

I've learned more reading the articles, etc. than anywhere. This is my first diesel rig and I'm kind of a nut about understanding things. So this forum is good therapy for me. Where would we be without the Internet?

Michael seems to be such a great resource for cummins trucks that I just had to join this forum. Going to try the 2 cycle oil in fuel tank tomorrow. I'm also looking to install a new fuel pump. Stock lift pump now on 2001.5 and 161,000 miles. Lift pump has been changed every couple years, so precious owner claims.

I've been studying the drawings and will attempt the harness myself. I have the same concern about the relay availability with diode. - - - Updated - - - If it goes well, I may offer harnesses for sale with heavy gauge wire, soldered connections and good relays. Seems nobody is happy with what's out there.

Not sure I'm up to this project myself? I'll study some more. Anyone around here interested in building me a harness? If you've been through the process it would be easier than going the learning curve. Heck of a way to start here on the forum for my first post. Lol.