Russ Roth

The resistor allows you to leave the relay in and not set a code or go into Limp mode.

The #'s are stamped on the housing somewhere. Axle tube I think. Will tell you more about what it is than the tag will even if it was there.

There should be a set of #'s stamped in the housing somewhere that will get you to the all the information you need. Should be on the Dana site but I don't have link to it. I do have this link which has some other links and phone #'s on the last page that may be of help. http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J3311-1-HVTSS.PDF

That is not true. I am not sure but I believe the alloys came out in '00 but even if they didn't mine is an '01 without rear discs and was bought new with alloys. They will not fit earlier models without shaving off the drums although they will fit 1st Gens with no issue. I sold a set to a feller with one and we made sure they fit before he left. Not sure when the change occurred to the larger drums but I would bet it likely was when the 2nd Gens came out.

Not sure if this will help you but I have built fishing rods using epoxy on the winding wraps. A few times did not get quite enough hardener and would not set solid. Mix a bit stronger batch and put another light coat on the next day and it has always come out good and dry. Not sticky at all. Hopefully this stuff works out that way for you also.

I have to tweak mine a bit more. About .5 gallon on the fill up today and that seems about usual. Sometimes more, sometimes less and appears somewhat dependent on what the use may have been. I usually can't use the same pump all the time since most times the station is packed which is likely why it is that far off. A couple times it has been nearly right on. I usually set it about .1 high also for the same reason as Mike.

I did both on mine and the upper adjustment was way out. My steering wheel did not seem to have excess play but certainly must have had more than it should. I just checked it yesterday and it has virtually no real noticeable play now. I can one hand it pretty easy in almost any driving situation including towing. The only place it has a bit of back and forth is on those darn ruts from studded tires if they are pretty deep. My PW drives great but does the very same thing in the same spot. Not sure about the Durango since I almost never drive that rig. All 3 rigs drive very well.

I used to herd mine down the road like many others. It now drives like it should. There were several things I did pretty much all at once that got it on track---so to speak. This was not all I have done but these are what I believe made a good final result. I put as much positive caster as I could get. When I replaced the vacuum pump I also adjusted the steering box per the FSM. Both adjustments, and it did take up quite a bit. I also made sure everything was tight, replaced the axle end track bar bushing with a poly one and had 285/75x17 very stiff sided wall E rated Nitto Dura Grapplers installed. It drives like one would expect and it still has original ball joints and wheel bearings @ over 188,000 miles.