ICU_24VNUT

I'm native American myself, might be there :P just a 1/4 though

Pm sent.

Hey IBM it's been YEARS what happened to the cumminsforum? Last I seen was EPA and a updated list of rules.

So I have 3.54's and I was curious do any of you have a final ratio calculator, I found or had a easy one YEARS ago off the internet I just can't seem to find.. Anyways with 4.10's it cane out to 3.52 for like 37" tires.... But I want a nicer looking 2nd gen and to make it SRW with flatbed still. So I'm kicking it around, but I want like idk 20×10's or something other than stock tires and rims. I know it'll make it useless but just like mud / snow. Kelderman will nor do 2nd gen lift kits the frames are like the Ford highboys how they articulate, the 3rd gen up are stiff.. So maybe just look into those cheap $80 pucks or something.

So ignition cylinder is stuck in the off position. Im going replace it. But I was curious anyi dea how I'd setup a 2 or 3 switches to get rid of the key with fob all together to start it. And maybe just use it to lock / unlock wirelessly. Or just get a hard key for the doors. I just want switches to turn on the accessory/ lift pump / glow plugs.. etc and then another to use the starter. So when those go out I can just replace the the switch or fuse and go on about my way much easier. Or am I better off with a specific truck like a p-pump truck to do these things? Or should I just get a newer truck that dodge still supports and order parts while there still available? P.S kinda clueless with the new trucks and there electric stuff going on.

Side note I've been starting my truck lately not even cold out but the grid heater needs to cycle. Gauges read 12v, so could it be weak batteries/ going bad / need load tested? Or is the fleece sureflow loosing prime after the wait to start shuts off? I don't think I had this issue even unplugged in the winter time.. So I'm not sure if it's getting weak or batteries.. but the ecm is also over charging And im having a spare ecm fixed + vin programmed. And auto computer specialist here said it would be a great idea to also send in my spare wiring harness for reman... So I'm kinda confused maybe it's just been over charging? Fresh reman long block + I sent the 30%'s back to be inspected and tested and they tested fine. No white smoke at idle but it does seem ruff to start and I get just a little bit of black smoke @ start up. So could it also be that I need to install the 10mm efi retune from firepunk to get it to start properly? Heard it may just add a bit of smoke but should run fine till retune... Thank you!!! P.S if I let it cycle again right after the wait to start light or the next time I turn it on it jumps right to life no stumbling for a second or 2. Also I only have that black smoke on startup if my oil is bad but I just changed it and got a Tote of CI-4 so maybe I should just change it early & run hotshot secret threw it to try and clean out the emissions junk oil...

so i definitly want compounds but i'd hate to kill my MPG, so im gunna try a s464 or 467 over like a gt55 or a s500 but leaning more towards a garret because they spool better. and i read from a s500 seller that the SXE is better for high RPM but the SX has a broader RPM range and the Smaller like 1.15 housing and down are easier to snap the hot side by just lifting your foot off the throttle. so ill see whats up with one of the garrets in the 88mm cold side or something around there... a s500 is like $3,000 but the garret is like 5,000 also want to build a triple setup so im gunna need another truck.. and my 2nd gen ill probably leave back home for my folks to have a spare diesel tow rig :P thinking similar to PDD's, 3 gt55's / just keep looking. ithink they did 2700hp + with it so i need another truck plan to do that on a 06-07 truck. would be cool for drag racing, gave up on do everything ideas i think.... just been driving at a almost reliable yet still somewhat sketchy 500hp.... before i open my mouth and made billet threaded freeze plugs a thing, there was nothing going on except engine failures all the time, so im scared to be left on the road with just that being my downfall so its time. also have plans to open it again and ask fleece and titan to make some new products : P so idk include 200%'s DDP for the 467 / gt55 and i baught a 10mm cp3 and just got a retune for 30%'s without flashing it but after i tie up some loose ends im thinking just that next. or save towards it. but another time i opened my mouth the 14mm multiplyer cp3 came out and today 4/22/24 there lauching a new version of it on exergys website so i'll probably buy one of those took'em all this time to come out with one that fails short of the old one on there graph but does slightly better @ higer RPM :P so who thinks what? i have 0 idea about the NOS system do i need like 5 jets? and or am i supposed to hook them upto a controller that sparys at certain RPM's or are the 5 kits of nitrous each a specific jet size? not to familiar with the vocabulary. or are they just sparying down low just 1 or 2 jets to help on spool up and like 3 jets to during WOT use? i've seen it in videos but i just don't remember whats up? i think i saw some of that in firepunks content or somewhere else like PDD and others but its been soo long i just don't remember... Primary use of vechical would be for a 3k HP + dyno run and if it survives or if i hit 3k then race track... so let me know, and yes i know firepunk went 1st to 3 seconds on the strip with only 150% overs and like 1300hp kinda like this website more, and don't miss the cummins forum but theres alot of good info there... and if you have 2 cp3s like 10mm can you make 1600hp in a dual setup or is it harder to get a reliable number like ? just for a dual 10mm setup on the 06 or should i just put on a 14mm? also heard the 14mm's have a bucking issue while towing so i just didn't want to put one on a tow truck. but will use 2 for the 3k (^ heard of people making 1,000 hp with dual stock cp3's but they don't fuel or start to defuel past 2800 or 3000 rpms so i was curious^)

Thanks for your info... guess I'll keep looking.

These are the best injectors money can buy!!! I told how I'd make injectors my self. And make an extremely balanced set and to do the best job you can, or just don't bother working at all. They open up the holes to make sure they perfectly round. So there's a smooth injector bore. I called it K-factor injectors. But I'm short on cash still and just turned 26. I put it out there in like 2016~2017. https://dynomitediesel.com/ I'd just get rid of whatever those are or just send them in for a reman service with new tips. There the best buring injectors money can buy. Skip the crap brands Like BBI, DAP, PDD, & exergy for the injectors specifically. But if you step up or are looking for parts off the internet dieselautopower.com & powerdrivendiesel.com are good places for them. Never gotten the DDP economy injectors or the stockers. But I do have the optimized stock injector. It's the max size you can run on a stock cp3. And with custom tuning (efi live from firepunk) and a full billet trans I'm getting 24mpg on the highway unloaded in a 4wd crew cab 3500 dually. If you'd like tell them NotSoNicely sent ya. P.S. ( if you call to ask to see if I'm full of it just ask for the owner Lenny. I think he's the only one who even knows :P )

So I want a 4th gen.. but I want a deleted one & the ability to freely travel. Should I just get a early 4th gen and weld off the cooler ends and keep it on so if I get pulled over I still have it installed? / stock exaughst / knock out the cat? The only other thing on my mind is get another 3rd gen and stuff a 4th gen 6.7 or 5th gen 6.7 engine/ ECM into it. I did hear the CMB is the best for tuning/ racing, but the 4th gen trucks look so clean just letting the computer control the fueling. ( what I'm after entirely actually ) And a 48re setup. Would be cool to have a 500hp + truck that's just doesn't even give off a little puff of smoke. Mostly for MPG. (Out of curiosity can you run either of those ecms with a 5.9 and 5.9 injectors? Or is it not possible with the 5.9 injectors / wiring setup on the valve cover? Also heard on some 6.7's the injectors must be registered to the ecm. + the difference in injector return) Thoughts? Thank you for your time.

So I went to dodge and it's fairly expensive to get key fobs there like $200 each + programing. I think it may have went up again on the key side + programing. that said I'm going to keep getting computers and I don't wish to keep having to reprogram them. So I was curious if any of you have a preferred scan tool to do so or some kind of device like this one from Walmart. It's like $30... No offense but it would be awesome to just grab one every time I need to swap ECM'S. ( @ dodge one of there techs had a application on his phone to do it. Any ideas there??) Thank you NSN

Thank you for your time sir

Thank you for your time

Anyone know about the 98.5 -2002 cabs being the same instead of narrower or smaller inside the cab in like the 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton cabs? And do the the 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton cabs for right onto the 1 ton frames? Just heard the 1 ton frames are more narrower. Thank you NotSoNicely

Skip the aisin... it defuels during the shifts... Just get the 68rfe + much better preformance capabilities and from what I've read there's no tuning for the aisin..

So I have a blue chip diesel Premium VP44 in the truck, last time I drove it it felt worse then my old with 300k or something on it.. Much slower... So I was curious, you can add like 7x13 injectors and pick up added reliability out of the vp itself by detuning it so it works less hard... but I heard that 7x10's are the max size injector you should go with for towing heavy. So I'm curious what it is in a 8 hole? And HP deferences. That said there are Turbonators for VGT S300'S, any idea how much you can pickup on these trucks with one of those? Like fuel only numbers? + upsize in turbo with the VGT? I heard it's like the old s364 before SXE'S came out.. so any idea whats up there? I know it's keeping it in a short window rpm wise still, just curious where that might get you? Like s464 nowadays or..... still NOT happening :P I understand the front ends do not have enough air movement for much more then 400hp. But I got a 3 row radiator and It wouldn't climb in coolant temps... like 0 desfrost... So after I get it rebuilt I'd like to test that out. Forget what's up intercooler wise... Either need another or it's a Mishimoto? It's a nv4500 with 3.54's 4wd DRW, plan to get a new engine after frame straightening & cab... etc then south bend dual disc & 1.375 input shaft. Been forever but I've seen people cryogenically treating the internals before, and they said it helps out for like 50% over the stock rating HP wise.. but I got a new NV5600 main case. The only complaint I have is that I've heard the nv5600 has oiling problems and burns up easily. So I'm just not to sure there... should I just get a g56 for a swap? So that might leave turbo choices... I have a s200 58/61/14 on there currently. But should I compound that with a s366 or something? In the traditional tow route with staying in the efficiency range? Or get like a s464 with VGT or some kind of SXE s300? Will only get DDP'S for injectors... I've heard that the s300g are much to restrictive from my turbo guys. But was considering a s358 or something. Thank you for your time.. lots of questions.. Mostly would be a backup truck but who wants a gutless tow pig? :P don't want a he341 or modified stocker but it would probably be a good idea with a smaller s300 compound... it's just to sit there and have something to drive around when the 3rd gen craps out..

Not sure if I'm missing something but i want a stouter setup just so I don't have to worry minus the fat output shaft and transfer case mod on the driveline / axel side.

The total run out is much closer to 0. And less harmonics, no bearing on it. Ability to last last longer, can do burnouts almost worry free also. Larger u-joints.. And in my my case it took like 8 lead weights to get it to be acceptable somewhat in the runout. Vs a piece that should be like.001 or something in total runout Besides that the stock units will wollow out the back of a transmission from running out of round for 2 long a period of time...

You can still buy the ECM there's remans out there. You could PM me a shipping address and the next time I have some spare cash like in a couple of checks I'll send you a new ECM. I need to pay off my mechanic and buy some stuff for my truck still... but after I get a DOR front end, tires, and go threw steering and suspension + realignment ill send you one around that time after I get some cash. Especially if it'll really help.

If you want a NEW ECM I'll chip in. Still had plans to make my own VP44 also. But sense your already going threw the trouble it would be cool to get a KIT or something if you decide to sell kits + instructions. I'm thinking of making a stroker vp44. Unlike the dragon or anything I'll just make my own housings with larger fuel flow. Have a idea to make it less choppy down low / while towimg unlike my multipler idea for the CP3'S.. but I'm still just working. Need to figure out the software side of things on my end for work... and something else on my end... but I'd love to make something and walk the CP3 trucks still...

Got totaled years prior Ripped out the batteries with the quadzilla still hooked up and it arched for like 6" or more till I got it high enough it stopped.. so without calling quadzilla do you guys know what's up there? Is it the ecm & wiring harness or one or the other? Where can I find new/remaned TIPMS???? I've been looking for awhile. I'm considering like local auto parts stores but I didn't find any new ones online... So I'm thinking like DORMAN / all those kinds of remanufactures maybe hopefully!!!! But if you have a direct link please post it !!!!! So I've found a few junk yards that say call for a quote on remanded axels. I have the 3.54's and love them. Actually baught a fully loaded 4.10 1999 but shortly after getting it or maybe at the time of purchase/ before I remembered hearing about the 4.10 axels only being able to fit shallow 3.73's into them so I just sold it XD I'm super counting on y'all for tipms. Want to stock up on spare parts for this also if you have a link for TIPMS.. So I'm just waiting for your input on thus. I also heard I can get any cab from 1998 -2002 in the 2nd gen body style and they'll swap right over. But I heard the 3500 DRW's have a slightly different frame design from the SRW frames so I wanted to find out the fitment before I just go grab a gasser parts truck. THANK YOU, anyone who's able to verify and post LINKS to TIPMS or info for rebuild kits or something... The only other thing I was curious about I heard, I thought @Mopar1973Mandid a write up about the long winding coil under the dash to short or fry the truck after a certain period of time... it's been forever, was curious if there's a fix for that problem so I don't have to find myself on the side of the road or one magical day. I read dodge made these trucks to be a throw away object... with that cord + the negative in front of the block that either there or isn't there at all... Thank you another 53 block owner :P

Hello, so I've just been going threw my truck. Had some personal issues come up, and haven't been dumping $ into it for like over a year. Doings mods + fixing the stuffs/ stocking up - (switches,ecm, tipm, wiring harnesses, fuel rails, mirrors... just want to get a boat load or atleast a couple ecms + tipms for spares, just cuz if it all dissappear ill be screwed.... ) Firepunk comp 2 30% ddps 10mm cp3 63/67 tater - soonish to a S464 Head bolts, fleece lift pump, reman stock long block Ats t3 manifold W/EGT Mishimoto intercooler & transmission cooler, XDP Xtra cool radiator Mishimoto boots Efi live by firepunk [ ^just got a retune for 10mm^] Getting ready to go threw the steering & suspension. Billstieen 5100's - trying movitech coils & ball joints I've heard the 6 bolt box is wayyy better but just the red head 4 bolt box. Steering shaft, And going to a DOR front end upgrade kit. Dual steering stabilizer. + new tires & realignment during time of install.. for now, was considering a 4 link - track bars - DD able roll cage. For Track use / tie the back end down. But it's a tow truck, not lifted.. so I'm kinda not wanting to take it offroad and like break everything xD Was getting like 24 mpg on the overhead on the highway with same setup with just a stock cp3, and efi live for that setup.. Other soon to get mods One piece drive shaft 4.5k springs turbonator s400 housing + s464 turbo W/Exaughst brake & air compression Cam + push rods + tappets Hate the stock Cam, my oil life is terrible. Getting a different Cam want better oil life, was getting 3200-3400 miles in the stock 2nd gen before the oil turned pitch black. Get like less than 1 tank of fuel before it turns black... Broke my firepunk comp 2 ( full billet, triple disc ) got a rebuild, went to next-gen diesel for there billet triple disc... DPC's just snapped it.. DPC is dampless, NGD is dampened and still a full race converter. Didn't do a single burn out, no aggressive abuse on the trans, got like 2 years maybe 30k miles on it... broke just on cruise control plan to send mine out to get there in-house rebuild with there own valve body + other redesigns. Looks much more promising / dependable. And get a other full billet trans but threw them this time. HIGHLY Recommend next-generation diesel over the firepunk transmissions Also want to build a Higher HP engine Thinking of getting another 06 - 07 5.9 truck for a race build... but I'm thinking 6.7 w/HO pistons either 6.4 or 6.7 5.9 short block- industrial Ported head + thread freeze plugs + 4.5k springs Wagler rods + 1950 or machine my own rods :P Fluid damper $857 12mm girdle $1306 ARP EVERYTHING More aggressive Cam ( Still going threw it plan to stock up on 3rd gen parts, but I'm considering also getting a 4th or 5th gen... probably both :P )

In the 3rd gen they dropped the the turbo because of emissions noise reasons, the 3rd gen stock manifold location is just there to quite it down. Hence why the 2nd gen swap is popular on the 3rd gen and up pickup trucks. But I've heard that the stock manifold is not the greatest for exaughst gas flow. And can be hard on the valves in the last couple of cylinders. But there are aftermarket manifolds for the 3rd gen that flow to 99.9 % the same as the 2nd gen style, minus the louder exaughsy note / louder turbo noises. Upto you, have heard that they make new lines for the 4th gen 6.7 trucks to reroute the A/C lines. But unless you just want the turbo sound I'd just stick to a 3rd gen style and compounds + keep your A/C.

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