KATOOM

Testing my memory but I believe only on the rear drums rear anti-lock trucks.

Walmart isn't my favorite place to be either.....but those savvy shoppers aren't willing to pay for anything. Thats why they're there. Instead, stop by your local legislative office. Your officials will pay any amount of money for something stupid because its not their money. So as we see our more of our tax dollars purchasing city / county electric vehicles you can bet that the cost to fix those vehicles isnt high on their give a crap list.

Before anyone goes through the trouble... I suggest disconnecting the rod and tie it up where the valve would be in the most open position. Then test and see if there's any more braking power than before. Because I've heard from others over the years that it didnt do anything.

Keep a look out for any black SUV's in front of your house...

Wow... Where did you get this information?

Interesting... I've read many times that Cummins added the oil cooling jets on the HO motors. I didnt realize that it was simply a different type. Good to know too because I always wondered how the SO motors survived.

Just pointing out that the bypass system MUST allow oil into the system otherwise the crank journals would immediately starve of lubrication. Anything over 50 psi and the oil filter bypass send a percentage of the oil through the system unfiltered. And I'm also not sure what you mean by saying that the oil being bypassed should be cleaner than oil from the jug. If its being bypassed upon that initial startup after an oil change then its clearly whatever came from the jug. Agreed...but just pointing out that the SO engines did not come with piston cooling jets.

Just looked in my FSM and it states: OIL FILTER REMOVAL (1) Clean the area around the oil filter head. Remove the filter using a 90-95 mm filter wrench. (2) Clean the gasket surface of the filter head. The filter canister O-Ring seal can stick on the filter head. Make sure it is removed. INSTALLATION (1) Fill the oil filter element with clean oil before installation. Use the same type oil that will be used in the engine. (2) Apply a light film of lubricating oil to the sealing surface before installing the filter.

If the oil is so contaminated prior to pouring in the engine then it doesn't matter where it goes first because cold oil will run through the bypass system long before it adequately flows through the filter. So even though you think all that new oil is being filtered during the initial startup...its not. Its actually running through the engine many times over before the filter has the opportunity to filter contamination's out. If this wasnt the case then the oil filter would blow off the engine during high pressure moments. No matter, the volume of oil I even pour into the filter during the pre-fill is probably about 2/3 of a quart at the most. Exactly...pressure is a measure of resistance. So those couple seconds when the oil filter is filling there is very little pressure in the oil system. And "normal" use would be measured when the filter is full and the media is saturated because the pressure is then relative. "Normal" is not pressure applied to only one side of the media, so how well the media handles that initial pressure is up to the quality and material of the filter. Lets not forget what happened back when FRAM filters were falling apart internally and sending media shrapnel throughout the engines. Yes the problem was the glue and yes the problem has supposedly been resolved, but I guess I'm not one for placing all trust in machinery assembly line products. Actually, I wont run anything but Fleetgaurd oil filters on my truck simply because the ISB is known for a very high pressure / volume oil system which can destroy a dry oil filter. That said, if the media ever does tear from the blast of pressure upon dry startup, would you know it? I doubt it...unless you cut the can open an exposed the media. Yeah 5 seconds was a bit of an exaggeration. Maybe a couple seconds...depending on the vehicle. But I have to say that my vehicles never make any valvetrain noise after sitting for long periods. Well...I retract that. I do have an older Ranger which always sounds like the valves are trying to exit the head during any startup. I dislike it when auto manufactures have the throttle auto ramp up upon startup. Another topic... Yes it is... Again, because when the filter media is saturated then relative pressure places equal force on the media, unless your filter completely drains. But oil systems generally maintain a prime which is why most oil filters have anti-drain valves incorporated in the design. Most are pretty weak though... But nonetheless, I've never taken my filter off and not had them over-spill on me. Even if I let my truck sit overnight, the oil filter is still within 1/2" to 3/4" from the top when I remove it.

I will ALWAYS pre-fill an oil filter if possible. Been doing this for decades and will continue to do so too. The whole "you can pour something into the filter by accident and it will get into the oil system" is so implausible that it would be the last thing on my mind. If I'm that slight of mind of whats coming out the new oil bottle then I'd be pouring the same crap into the valve cover fill hole... Why I do this? Well because I prefer not to shove 70 psi of cold oil through a dry filter element. Thats simply asking for the media to tear... Would you know if the media is torn, basically turning the filter into a bypass? Probably not. And because I prefer not to hear 5 seconds of dry valve train while the oil system is filling the filter before maximum pressure is achieved. Especially on engines that are preset to ramp the throttle up upon startup. Sounds painful. The only times I dont pre-fill is if the filter is mounted sideways or is a cartridge type, but I'll make sure to warm the engine a bit before changing in hopes that the oil will pass through a warm block before reaching the pan, and the oil system is basically charged with lube which will offset that first blast of dry RPM's. Nonetheless, it seems we all have our own ways of wrenching.

I've never seen this thread until now... Wow, nice trucks!!! I just combed through 15 pages of some pretty cool looking stuff and I also noticed quite a few similarities too. A surprising number of you still have the factory rims. Me too and I love the look. Not too many rims out there fit well with the 2nd gens. Plus many of you are running aftermarket headlights. Mostly non-sports with Sport type housings. Like minds think alike? And I absolutely loved the pictures showing the areas where you live. Maybe its just my inner self who's looking to flee this state or that I enjoy this great country and all the cool places within it. Either way, lots of nice photos... Now I have to dig up some pictures of my truck so I can join in on the fun.

Thats the same PS fluid I use too. Seems to be good stuff...

Just make sure it's not blocked first because it sounds like it is...

Looking from inside the engine bay behind the motor on the passenger side firewall. Look somewhere behind or close to the AC accumulator. You'll see a 90* bend or a hole in the firewall if the fitting was knocked off. That is the drain for the HVAC box to drain out the condensation from the AC evaporator, and also whatever water finds its way in the cowl from rain or washing.

Yeah, that whole "auto" pilot thing is really misleading and I feel was released way too early. The road way infrastructures we humans navigate through every day is anything but black and white. Too many variables and unknowns for me to trust a computer to process an algorithm.

I was unaware of a drain plug on the steering box. I guess I'll have to look...

Having a drain petcock would make this so much easier too...

And they werent cheap either...were they.

No argument from me. But if there was an HID plug and play headlight assembly that wasn't close to a grand...and worked, I may consider that route. But they're all outrageously expensive and usually gaudy awful looking. Or we have to buy separate parts from various places and try to assemble something together after cutting and hacking which may or may not work right by the time you're done. So.....at this stage I'm looking for easy peazy

Thanks IBMobile. I mistook you for having the Sport headlights. I'm doing as much research on this as I can but info is limited regarding whether or not I need to use a relay harness for running main 80/100 bulbs. With an additional 70/90 watts running though the headlight switch and wiring, I'm not sure... And sorry about the twitch too.

Sorry guys for bringing up an old thread but I have to clarify something IBMobile said... I'm going to try some brighter bulbs in my Sport headlights and remembered this post. My questions are, I know my Sport headlights are 9007 main low/high beam and 9004 high beam. So how did you use the 9004 in the Sport as the low beam? Or was that a typo? Or do you run both 9007 and 9004 in the 100/80 bulb? And also, I cant find the Flosser bulbs but Amazon has the same thing in HELLA. Do you know if there's a difference? Lastly...you said you experienced no negative side affects running the higher wattage bulbs, right? Thanks.

I remember you talking about ordering your truck and being pretty excited. I'd say you're doing pretty good so far on not having to replace parts... By the way, what u-joints did you put in?

I've been running the EZ / RV275 combo for years and I love it. No excessive smoking, EGT's are easy to keep in check, and I can tow anything I have in the summer heat up some looooong grades. Plus they're the only "brand new" injector you can buy besides stock. Everything else is rebuilt and you have to be sure not to get garbage rebuilds. Most people arent willing to pay for quality either so...

I disconnected the underhood light on my truck. Didnt think it was bright enough and I didnt need it turning on when I wasnt aware and running the battery down. My cell phone light is brighter than most flashlights and its always in my pocket...so thats usually my go to.

So after dicking around with the adjustments by pulling the lights, adjusting, putting them back... I got bored and spent half of today swapping out the aftermarket housing frames for the OEM ones. It pays to not throw things away. Well the headlights are fitting more straight than before but I'm not sure how they'll shine. Do I think the frames were messed up?...no, just that the three adjustments were too hard to replicate since the adjusters are not exactly the same as the OEM ones are. I'll post back after I get the chance to drive at night.