QuadRunnerJake

By the way @Mopar1973Man the only reason I decided on the 150's was because of your experience with them. I am very happy thus far. I haven't had them in long enough to really tune them for the stock hx.. but at 320bar im relatively happy with the smoke control with the mild fuel curve I threw together thus far..

So I'm running 7x10 vco's. I picked them up recently with a s366 and some compound piping. I grabbed a pop tester on eBay and cleaned swapped and shimmed the OEM injectors with the new tips. My local injector shop said 160 an hour to shim my injectors leading to me doing it myself for a little cheaper. Needless to say I am no longer running wire tap and much less duration.. I have an SO pump so the tired h/o injectors requires a lot of duration to get power down low. EGT's are a non issue for me right now with the water meth even with relatively fat fueling curve and not a lot of cfm. 2 stages at around 10gph combined @30psi boost. I Missed out on an aem flow gauge that was for sale near by so cant give you specific cc/min. I appreciate the help. I still haven't picked a turbo I want as a primary. I'm doing a budget street build to push the limits of driveability and peak power of the SO VP. Specifically I want a truck with minimal turbo lag and the ability to make 600+ HP. I plan on testing a d-valve out on the compound set up. Right now I'm mostly focused on finding a primary.

I'm looking at purchasing an s475 to replace my s366 I got unintentionally.. I found a boostlabs s475 83 .90 T4 for sale brand new for $600 on marketplace.... I would be using it for twins so the t4 has got to go. I hear there are 2 different CHRA's on the t4 vs t6 turbos. That being said how would I go about swapping to a 1.10 or similar t6 housing. Need completely new bearings housing and turbine housings?? That sounds far too expensive to be worthwhile. From what I can tell the bearing housings a mostly identical except for the diameter where the exhaust housing clamps on. Also what's the deal with the 83/74 and 87/80 and 88/96 wheel sizes. Which would work best with a 1.10ish housing? I plan on running ported hx35/s475 but will probably step up to a 62mm secondary eventually. This medium and large frame s400 crap is throwing quite a bit of complexity into finding a usable turbo in my area used.

If it were me I would use that in line pump you have on the shelf. Grab a float sensor like snow uses in the water meth kits. Wire it into a relay with the float switch being wired into the relays coil circuit and mount it in your oe fuel tank. This way the system is autonomous and shuts off with the float valve. You can wire in multiple floats for peace of mind and wire in a led of your choosing so you can tell the pump is running.

Im not sure how far along in the project you are but I successfully changed my negative switched 3 wire headlights. I recommend grabbing a fuse and relay box from Amazon cheap. I grabbed one that holds 6 relays and 6 fuses and wired it myself. you can buy them pre wired as well with just a loom sticking out the end for simplicity. I installed BiLED NHK projectors which have 4 wires, pos/neg and 2 nonpolar for the hibeam solenoid. I used cut up headlight bulbs as the adapters and soldered wire to the leads then filled with hot glue for insulation. I was able to use one relay per headlight operating both high and low beam functions. For the wiring I used 2 forward bias shottky diodes per headlight to address backfeeding. The bileds I used cost about 120. The housings cost me 100, wire and diodes another $30 or so. They pull around 10 amps each and have a great cutoff line. Definitely removed a ton of load on the electrical system.

Doesn't matter if it's not leaking fuel. Diesel needs a much larger space to weep from than air needs to get in. Replace any lines with visible cracks, make sure the fittings are secured (i used hose clamp over the push lock fittings) also recommend replacing copper washers on the VP where the return and supply lines are. Check all connections to make sure they are tight but do not over tighten! That's all the advice I got. We seem to get paranoid about VP failure once it happens when in reality the current iterations of the VP are quite reliable. I did blow up a VP under warranty one time but that was because the fass pump seized and starved it for fuel. I was able to hide the fact it was wire tapped with a posi-tap by melting a small amount of black plastic from the top of a black spray paint can over the small puncture created by the posi. Then I lightly marred all the wires with pliers to match the look of the tapped one making it indistinguishable from the others.

If you are pulling it by yourself I highly recommend separating the Tcase from the trans. The t case makes that heavy trans a whole lot heavier and much more awkward to maneuver in and out. With 1 or 2 larger persons helping I would say yeah give it a go pulling it all together otherwise you are going to be fighting it.

Holy crap man, you must've really cranked on those. But who am I to talk when I stripped my abs module out when replacing brake lines... Anyways, anytime you have flared lines you can't go crazy with torque. Just a good snug will do. It's always better to not go tight enough and spring a minor leak than go too tight and strip out the pump or destroy HP lines. I would definitely recommend grabbing a used set off eBay or marketplace or even a local wrecking yard. 9/10 they are in great shape. Also I do not see the necessity in using crow feet for the lines. I got mine off with standard wrenches.

Recently I've been getting after some much needed maintenance on my 24v. So while I replace my tappet cover gasket and vacuum pump seals I'd like to throw in some valve springs, valve seals, head studs, and any other seals/components I can get to at the same time. I know the valve guides are known to wear on 24v's so I'll make sure to take a peek at those too. I just rolled over 200k. So my questions are: What seals should I use for the valve stems? I hear something about CR seals being used as an upgrade? What other components/seals should I be replacing/inspecting at the same time?

Thank you all for the help. The issues I was experiencing were a result of poor connection at driver side battery terminals. I have no idea why the issues only happened at highway speeds and when hot. Nonetheless, I got the cables right and all issues resolved.

Great write up! Terrible web-formating by MoparMan. Literally a page full of bright white ads and greyed out difficult to read text over a black background. Members should be able to use ad block to at least make the page readable. I mean jeez, it's so bad I thought the problems were on my end.

One thing to note with the fass system... The relay and fuse holder isn't the best quality. I highly recommend buying an aftermarket fuse and relay box that has covers and mount it somewhere dry. Then anytime you add a circuit you will have a nice empty relay box with fuse holders to make it quick and easy. My original relay holder kept frying relays and eventually melted due to it not being mounted upright and away from the heat of the motor. Ground the pump to the frame, not the battery. Also note the blue fuel lines fass uses suck they will dry and crack and leak in no time. Highly recommend going with a better hose.

Have had neither of those symptoms. My rpm gauge also likes to bounce around 100rpm+- if that is relevant. It's done that for a very long time though. Before my first VP

It didn't run the best not gonna lie. Realized at the same time the fuel filter wasn't flowing very well either. The whole reason I noticed the LP died was because of the fuel starving. Fast forward to today the truck makes more power than it ever did before. It runs great on short trips around town. Especially running it hard. Never acts up other than on the highway or after being on the highway for hours I can get it to do that Throttle hang up issue. Has anyone ever had their truck just hang up during free revving? I can rev it hard up to 3k then it will drop down to 2k hang there sounding kinda like its missing then come down. I haven't replaced the apps or injectors before and it's got 200000. I have some 7x10 nozzles in my garage. Nozzles I just bought for $100. I was planning on pop testing them at home and reshimming as necessary with a little homemade pop tester using a cheap bottle jack and pressure gauge.

So I got a P0122 and the companion code so gotta scan for the rest. P0122 is apps I thought but idk the pump hanging when hot makes me think the VP is done. I just bought a s472 and 150hp nozzles for my compound aspirations so this will be an expensive month lol.

Not yet. No CEL like last time, but I'll go flutter the key a few times and check. Last time my VP took a **** it did some real weird stuff. I would have no pedal control at idle unless I mashed it. Then it would shoot to 1500 to 2000 stick there for 3 secs, smoking like crazy without touching the pedal, then depending on if I touched the pedal or not it would either drop back down to idle or if I kept it above that hang point of 1500 I could drive normally until It dipped below. . I was smoking out every stop light when this happened. Didn't matter if it was cold or hot. This will be my third dead VP and I am not thrilled. Bought from Taylor Diesel a Bosch Refurb shop.

I will get intermittent dead pedal when driving above say 60mph with light pedal pressure.. I also get this weird hanging up when revving the truck in neutral it will rev up just fine then hang up at say 2000rpm then come back down..all of the issues show up after some amount of highway driving. Drives fine on short trips, long trips it's constantly cutting out at some point. The hanging up thing worries me that something mechanical is ****** up. How often does the control unit fail vs mechanical on newer units that have been fuel starved at some point? I have a new fass 150 pump motor and so VP44 installed less than 10,000 miles ago. I did blow up the fass 8000 miles ago leaving me stranded and forcing me to limp the truck 30 miles. No real issues until the last 1000 miles or so.

. the voltage potential is different between VT and R/O by .4v which made me think that the lower voltage potential would draw from the higher. I guess i would have to test Amps to see if that is the case but yeah im probably still wrong. Its been a long time since ive taken a circuits course lol

Yeah i decided to only use a single relay for high/low beam. So 2 relays for both headlights and 2 shottky diodes on each light.. 2 relays seems overkill for my single BiLed system... I only had forward biased shottkys so i had to get creative with the junction point locations where the solenoid tapped in and diode orientations since VT and VT/R will backfeed through the relay coil. How did you draw that diagram??? i can post up my schematic tomorrow. i think the filament works as a resistor to limit the current draw. Still this set up causes a constant drain on the battery when truck is off because it is in fact shorting at the headlight bulb.

i assume that .4v is what the high beam indicator bulb uses up... Maybe 12v is passing through the indicator bulb at all times from the fuse you mentioned and since it isnt grounded when high beams are off the current runs through the indicator bulb filament and is then forwarded to R/O from R/GY. Thats what i came up with from looking at page 908 and 961 of the online service manual. i dont get how that doesnt casue a short in the oe bulb with R/O and VT/RD both hot

OH BOY, this is the answer. I will add a Shottky diode to my harness on R/O wire to block the positive signal and only allow ground. Thank you so much for all of your help. I will make a post with the finished product once i get my adapter harness rebuilt. Basically its going to go something like this: VT/RD > relay coil pin 85, V/W>relay coil pin 86, R/O>shottky Anode>pin 86 relay coil, pin 30 relay common > fuse> battery positive, pin 87 relay power> projector hot

yes no bulbs and my adapter harness's removed. just 2 empty 9004 plugs. very odd phenomenon. im going to add a shottky diode to it and only allow ground to pass through r/o. its weird that when it switches to ground .5v, that .5v is the difference between the r/o when its hot (11.4) and V/R wire 11.9..... that 11.4 stays even after i try to ground it out to see if its just residual current being held by something like a cap. Also do you think this stray voltage is coming from the beam selector or the headlight switch My main goal is to get my NHK BI LED projector to work lol along with the solenoid Someone on another forum suggested the high beam indicator circuit may be at fault Also since i have a power probe i can check for noise in the circuit as well

1 2 and 3 is the pins order from right to left. i added the colors to my last reply. headlights removed, my relay adapter harness removed, bulb removed i am only using the power probe as a multimeter. i am aware of the ground switching. i do not understand why R/O wire is 11.4v until hi beams are activated and it turns to ground (showed like .5v ground), vt/w acts normal and only grounds when low beam is activated, Vt/R or V shows about 11.9v all the time. so the only wire in question is the R/O wire. Why the hell is it showing 11.4v unless hi beams are active? i might just have to add a shottky diode to get rid of that positive signal on the R/o wire and only allow ground through. Please dont judge but i dont own a test light lol, i have a power probe and multimeter

lamp system. Before i tested my harness: pin 1 is R/O and is hot when vehicle is off and when low beams are on, Ground when hi beam is on Pin 2 V/W is ground only when low beam active pin 3(V/R) is hot only when hi beams are on After i tested harness Pin 1 hot when vehicle is off and when low beams are on, Ground when hi beam is on Pin 2 ground only when low beam active Pin 3 always hot please note everything is unplugged when testing. i am testing the 9004 sockets with a power probe i have nothing aftermarket hooked up to my system whn testing how should my 9004 plug behave in off lo and hi conditions?

So basically i got myself a set of NHK projectors and retrofitted them into the autosaver 88 single piece headlights [non sport]. tested the plugs before i started building the harness. so after testing the pins i got : Low beam; pin1 12v pin 2 grnd, pin 3 inactive Hi beam; pin 1 ground, pin 2 inactive, pin 3 12v also noted that pin 1 is +12v even when headlights are off. So i built the harness and in the meantime something happened and now pin 3 is always hot. im over 12 hours into building the harness and this ****ery happens. im assuming a bad dimmer switch? the hi beam indicator still works which throws me off. pin 1 still acts normal switching from hot to ground when switching from lo to hi beam but pin 3 stays hot even with the truck off now. pin 1 is normally hot when truck is off but that should be the only pin hot when off. My harness is wired like this; pin 1 goes to relay coil, pin 2 and 3 go to the other end of the relay coil. in theory when low beam is active pin 1 will give hot and pin 2 will give ground to activate coil, in hi beam pin 1 is ground and pin 3 provides 12v to coil. this allows the relay to activate during high and lo beam to keep the projector powered. the projector hi beam solenoid is wired to pin 1 and 3 directly and only activates during high beam. since pin 2 and 3 completely disconnect from circuit during lo and hi beam operation [no continuity] i decided not to use schottky diodes for reverse current protection. i do have them if i need them but i dont think so since there isnt continuity between the pins 2 and 3 when low or hi beam is active. the harness isnt plugged into anything now and i currently have no headlights so please help with any advice. thanks in advance, Jacob 2001 non sport Please note the factory plug is malfunctioning and pin 3 is staying hot at all times now with my harness removed.