5akman

Patient: the truck in my signature. I had high boost readings on my Quad (up to 50 psi at idle) and those numbers dropped about 10 psi with the install of a new DAP map sensor. I then removed the Quad unit and sent just module to DAP to be checked out. While I had the Quad being checked, I installed my old Edge EZ. The module didn't have any issues so they sent it back to me and I have not reinstalled it. With the EZ, I get an almost constant "high boost " error code even after replacing the map sensor a second time. I was able to keep the light off long enough to get a smog check done but I now want to sell the truck and I need to figure out this error code issue. Can anyone offer any suggestions on where to start trouble shooting this? Is the MAP sensor terminal end wiring replaceable, I have not checked to see if it is. Thanks!

I checked it twice and it appears to come on as soon as I start the truck. The last time I checked with the install of the EZ, I didn't power it up over 10psi and I still got the code.

So my truck is plagued with an overboost code. My quad shows 39psi regardless of throttle position. I have removed the Quad and will be sending it in for repair. I cleared the codes and put my Edge EZ back in and I get the same code. I replaced the Apps and Map last fall. I guess now I disconnect the EZ and run stock tuning to see if it continues? I can't get it smogged with this code hanging out.......

Mike, glad to hear you're healing well and seem to have a positive mindset, (with or without bags!! ) Will this new version of your tow tune be available to purchase (tweaked to an individual rig)? I have your tow tune that I bought a year or so ago but just purchased a larger trailer so I'm curious to how the prior tow tune will perform vs this new one you came up with. Thanks, Lance

Could a guy put a full flow directional valve in diverting the fluid either through the block mounted cooler during winter months and then shut the valve during summer months? Maybe run the summer hose circuit through a derale cooler with fan under the chassis?

I've been debating doing the same thing but I'm concerned with a short bed and loosing the room to the tank. A switch would be nice so you could get to 1/4 - 1/2 tank and then fill it back up (as long as you remember to turn it off in time!). You might look at Transferflow.com's website to see what options they offer with their tanks in terms of how they fill from one tank to the other.

Great news, hope you continue to heal/recover quickly!

Mike, You and I spoke on the phone a month or so ago about trying to get my eco tune dialed in. Regardless of where I'm at with timing/engine load/boost, my oil temp is always 7 - 10 degrees hotter than coolant temp. I know you said advanced timing causes this but I'm running around 19-20 degrees timing, sub 5 psi boost, engine loads in the 20-25% range at 65 - 70 mph, 1800 - 2000 rpm. Is it just impossible to swap those temps numbers in a rig with an automatic transmission/parasitic drag?

Wow, what were your timing numbers?

Wow, much more complicated than I anticipated! So, you're saying that a switch could be put on the circuit leg coming off of 87 BK between the relay and resistor? What does the momentary switch do? What part of this diagram is the PacBrake wiring or is any of it pacbrake? If not, how would I know that this wouldn't interfere with the exh brake operation? I'm going to have to re-think my desire for this option as the wiring looks intimidating to a rank novice!

Getting ready to get a 30' bumper pull and ProPride hitch to tow with the rig in my signature. The PacBrake electronics tie into the lock up wire at the ECM to activate the exh brake when the unit is turned on and foot comes off the accelerator. If I wanted to add a TC lock up switch so that I can lock up in 2nd gear on up (Dynamic VB modded to allow that) for towing slow up steep inclines, can I do this without inhibiting the use of the exh brake? I'm assuming that I'd leave the PacBrake switch "off" and use the lock up switch as needed climbing hills. Then when going downhill, turn the TC lock switch "off" and turn on the PacBrake. Anyone have any wiring info on this? Since the Pacbrake is initially wired into the TC lock up wire, where in that circuit would I tie in to operate the separate lock up switch?

Where in the tune am I dropping 2 degrees of cruise timing? In the RPM Timing Max equalizer settings in the 1500 and 2000 rpm slider?

How does the oil temp relate to timing exaclty? Mike, you/I talked on the phone a week or so ago about my economy tune. I'm a lot closer now to running 19+ degrees of timing at cruise speed but my oil temp still shows anywhere from 5 - 10 degrees warmer than coolant temps. If coolant temps are 183, then oil temps are 188 - 193 or thereabouts.

Prior tune data/results as posted earlier in this thread: 55mph = 1600 rpm, 2 psi, engine load 21, timing 16 65 mph = 1900 rpm, 4 psi, engine load 23, timing 19 65 mph with slight grade = 2000 rpm, 7 psi, engine load 32, timing 14 Results after our phone conversation today: 55mph = 1600 rpm, 1 psi, engine load 24, timing 13 65 mph = 1900 rpm, 4 psi, engine load 20, timing 21 Engine oil temp is about 7 degrees warmer than coolant temps.