Direwolf

That's a good link. There is a good amount of info in that thread. It's funny if you look at the hybrid Chevy trucks how low the air dam is compared to the rest of the vehicle. 1 mpg is quite a difference considering what a simple piece it is. On a somewhat related note, I saw a 2nd gen with rear fender skirts. Don't know if they were a custom job or what, but they carried the lower body line through them and everything so it had some thought put into them. Just though it was a very interesting modification.

I'm not sure the silencer ring has been removed as the turbo noise really isn't that bad. However, I think what I am hearing is the actual intake pulse. If you are right next to the air box there is a definite low frequency pulse. The intake is an oiled filter cold air intake with an airbox around it. I wonder if the box around the filter is actually amplifying the intake noise and with it being situated so close the firewall, permeated the cabin? I guess I'll have to experiment!

Just a random though as I was staring at a newer truck today. In the quest for mpg, newer trucks have bumpers and air dams that extend much closer to the ground. Has anyone ever experimented with something like this? It would be interesting to see the effects it would have on our trucks.

My truck came with an S&B intake installed and a straight pipe. I threw a muffler on the straight pipe in a quest to make highway travel more civilized. Now I can hear the low drone of the intake. I don't mind it around town, but on highway trips it becomes noticeable. So the question is how much louder is the intake vs the stock air box? Would it be worth it to throw the stocker back on? Will it cost anything performance wise?

Mine runs the same type of bypass valve. The Mitusa is plumbed a little different though. I run the stock return line back to the tank from the VP. All the regulation is done in a closed loop type systems itch no return line. If the fuel pump pressure exceeds the bypass pressure it is bled back into the supply side of the fuel pump. Mine runs at about 1/2 engine speed, 1:1 must be pumping a ton of fuel!

I was afraid it would be a pain to get off. Good to know about the decal removal products though. I'll have to look into that.

How much if any play should there be in the steering box if I grab the pitman arm and move it back a forth? or should it be rock solid? I can get a 1/16 or so of movement. Will the over center take this out?

Mitusa pump, idles at 15.5-16. Any throttle and it jumps to 17-18 and never dips below that, even at WOT.

I am doing this myself right now and it is not too bad at all. I second the BFH method for the tie rods at the knuckle. They popped right out. Had to use a pickle fork for the drag link at pitman joint. And yes measure the distance before you start breaking stuff apart so you can get it close. Also yours should have the nyloc nuts instead of the castle nuts, so pick up some new ones before hand if they don't come with the tie rod. They can be hard to find on a Sunday afternoon. M14x1.5 as I recall.

Has anyone attempted to resolve the peeling black sticker stuff in between the side windows? I have seen a number of trucks afflicted by this. Is it vilable somewhere? I was thinking of cutting out some black vinyl and slapping it on. Maybe paint? I can just imagine the old stuff being a pain to remove. Your thoughts.

Figured I should add a picture of my ride. Pretty stock for the most part.

It's an aftermarket mechanical alternative to FASS or Airdog pumps, but runs off the crank via a toothed belt. It is similar to the DTT Assassin or Glacier Diesel's Fuel Boss. It has had rock solid pressure of 16-17psi at idle or WOT.

Howdy all, I've had my first Cummins, and diesel for that matter, for a few months now. Trying to learn as much as I can about these beasts. Found some of the best info on this forum so I decided to join. I've thrown a Mitusa pump and gauges on first thing. I hope to take advantage of all the knowledge and get all the other bugs worked out.