rotohead

I've replaced the OD solenoids without dropping the vb but not like Cascade video shows. If you have a small, 90 degree torx bit drive you can lower the vb just enough to get your hand on top and remove the one screw. Then I've also found its just as easy to remove the entire vb and do it that way. I've found the easiest way to remove the vb without much hassle is to have the rear axle on jacks so you can turn the rear driveshaft a little bit to disengage the parking lever with one hand and hold up the vb from dropping with the other. It's easier to do then to explain. Good luck.

Years ago I use to see a little cheaper version on Harbor Freight but haven't seen them for quite awhile. I've seen them in packs of 6 on ebay too. Good tight screw cap seal and easy to clean.

I use these white gas metal bottles. You can get them in different sizes. I hate plastic bottles for reuse.Always finds a way to leak and make a mess.

Just adding to the info on the topic of leaky injectors after a change/replace. I had a retired diesel mechanic years ago show me a way of seating the crossover tube to the injector properly. When seating the injector into the head and then installing the crossover tube you should push with your thumb on the end of the tube and at the same time rotate the head of the injector (I use a screwdriver that fits the slot on the head of the injector) counterclockwise the clockwise slightly and you'll feel the tube setting into the head the furthest it can go. Then tighten the injector hold down. Then when you tighten the fuel line nut down it will also seat properly in the head. I've done this on about 20 different injector jobs and always the line nut torques down to 30ft/lbs smoothly and no leaks. Hope this helps someone.

I'm not a big fan of 'enthusiasts' that just want to roll coal. I think that is stupid behavior and give us diesel lovers a bad image. If he got bent over I could care less.

Nice truck. If that was a head gasket replace I'd love to hear your knowledge on that project. I'm in fear that will be my next hurdle as I'm approaching 200k. Looks like you were able to keep the AC connected and not lift the cab to clear the head. Please enlighten us all.

An a moonshine still using exhaust heat for the perc? That's the way ya do it.

I'll get pics this weekend. I'm original owner. No one has done anything to her that I don't know about. It is a very early 24v (431 off the St Louis line and I've seen a couple oddities). I've also researched the bypassing of that heat exchanger in other forums and it's been done but with less then great results. Very much discouraged by others that know much more then I. It is my understanding that exchanger has more to do with reducing tranny temps then the air cooler on the front grill. Like I said I'll get pics. There are definitely flexible lines coming out the bottom of the exchanger that connect to the solid lines.

I'm looking for the flexible rubber lines that come out of the bottom of the heat exchanger. The one that leaks on my truck is the rear one. Don't know if it's in or out and I'm afraid to crank much tighter on the fittings. I'm tempted to remove them and see if there is a replacable oring or if I can take it to the shop in town to rebuild them altogether. The exchanger worries me some too. The color of the 'fluid' coming out isn't quite red tranny oil and isn't quite antifreeze and isn't quite engine oil. It makes a mess and even more worrisome is if that exchanger totally fails and mixes tranny fluid with antifreeze, that would definitely leave you on the side of the road at some point. The reman exchangers on ebay are upwards of $410 used. PIA to get at too.

Did you ever figure out WHERE to get replacement lines?

By cold air I meant abundant ambient air. Isn't that the goal?

Same idea. Better implementation. A good friend of mine Doug Holfelt out of Pocatello, ID use to make these fiberglass hoods, called AirBullDog Hoods. He doesn't make them anymore. The one I have was his second production unit and I've been running it for about 18 years. Air enters the two layered hood and is directed down through a hole to a custom made fiberglass lower half of the OEM intake and he retained the factory upper to use the stock filter and intake hose to the turbo. I'm not really sure if there is a great deal of ram air effect but it deffenitly gets plenty of cold air. Never dynoed or measured HP but given some of the aftermarket intakes I've seen I think it's as good or better. Plus I don't need to cover it when it rains. Ha!

I found this interesting. I purchased a battery cable kit from Geno's garage back this summer and just started installing it a couple weeks ago. Never did look at the install instructions until the other day and noticed the 'optional' battery cable. This was not in the kit from Geno's but it shows me this mod has been known to others for awhile and it is proper to have some kind of protection/link in the system. I already have a fuse and holder purchased that I'm going to use otherwise I'd call this guy and get the optional cable, or at least inquire about it. BTW, the kit is very well made and might be a little pricey but I feel is worth the cost.

Statistical probability ends with me. If it can happen it will happen to me from my experience. Or close to that. For real. Edit: I'm a paraplegic in a wheel chair from a less then 2 % chance something would fail. No regrets but many lessons learned.

I read what you post, then I research and educate myself via the internet on the information. I'm not sure I'm any more educated (actually I know I'm not) but I do feel more capable of setting up my truck to be more safe and correct. Please keep it coming if there is anything else you just remembered.

yep samo.

AD power? Curious. I guess any constant hot power source could be used I would think.

That is the way I understand it. Excluding a factory fuse when rerouting the charge wire didn't seem to be a good move in my eyes. I'll gladly spend a few bucks to include a proper fuse on the passenger side battery. I'm going to use the PDC wire to power my FASS lift pump.

Thank you very much. I truly appreciate the info and advice.

So if you don't mind me asking, what in your system would make it output up to 2200amps? Just curious and what fuse do you use to cover the fire hazard at that output? I appreciate the information. I'm contemplating my next alt replacement to a 200 amp output model.

So what do you suggest to avoid this potential fire hazard if I wanted to make it right?

It's been some 15 years ago or so but I do remember 2nd gen owner(s) on another forum having to replace blown 140 amp fuses when trying to upgrade to higher output Alternators. I'm trying to find those old post but it's been awhile ago. I'm thinking of adding one of those 200amp circuit breakers that are used in audio applications just as a precaution. What could it hurt?

So 3rd and 4th gen trucks have this possible fire hazard?

Yeah, I was thinking if there really was a purpose for the 140 amp fuse in the PDC it might be worth it to run another charge wire from the alt to the PDC but it seems that fuse doesn't do anything. Make sense. I'm going to do that this afternoon. Thanks. I've got all new replacement battery cables and those nice battery terminal mounts from Genos Garage. Going to replace a lot of the OEM wiring and replace all the looms as they've all deteriorated badly. Looks like crap.