Cowboy

Forgive me if I'm missing something, but I don't see why the extra diode wouldn't help. the most common way (AFAIK) for main diode pack to go bad, is for one or more diodes to get slow, which means it doesn't react fast enough and lets some negative voltage out of the alternator. A auxiliary diode in my thinking would prevent that from getting to the battery. One thing I would be tempted to do, because everything gets it's power from the drivers side battery, have the alternator hook to the passengers side, that will act somewhat as a RC filter.

Depends on what your actually celebrating on Christmas. If it's the birth of the sun god... no thanks. Jesus was born in or around September.

'96. I don't have it right now, but I may be able to find it tomorrow.

Here's some more graphs, only difference being the the probes swapped. Yep, pressure in the gated volute is higher.

You wouldn't have a PDF for a D80 would ya?

To sum this all up. I'm happy with how it all turned out. There are two main changes. EGT's are down. Before the head porting they peaked at 1325°, now they peak at 1250°, but it runs stronger as it took .75 seconds off my 20-80 times. It also spools faster, before it would make 10 psi at around 1400 RPM. Now it makes 10psi at 1310 RPM. Stock 20psi would come around 1580, now it's 1520. 30psi would hit at 1860, now it's 1790. Another interesting thing I found, I took the 99 up a certain hill maintaining 40mph, boost stayed right around 20 psi. Doing the same with the 96 (the one with a head job) gave a reading of 11 psi. Same gear, same tire size. This test is somewhat like comparing apples and oldsmobiles, but I found it interesting. I believe what's currently holding me back is the tremendous amount of drive pressure! Making 35psi (33 in the manifold) drive pressure goes above 60 psi! I need to find a replacement turbo and fast!

In it's defense, it was running on 3 cylinders. haha

So this isn't a apples to apples comparison, but I do have some readings. I've had a drive pressure gauge for a couple months now, and have been recording runs before/after various modifications. The last mod having been the head porting. Normally I have the drive pressure gauge in the front ports and the EGT's in the rear. However I swapped them for this run. So these are basically identical conditions other then the head porting, and the fact that it's 50* out instead of the 70* it was before. Yes, you are looking at that right, cylinders 4-6, which are the ones gated, have higher drive pressure then 1-3. I would assume that it is due to the head porting, but I think that that shows that there isn't any major difference between the two volutes. Hopefully I can swap the probes again and get some more readings. That way it's more apples to apples due to both readings having been taken after the head porting.

Just for you. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wUnBDOv_4Y&feature=youtu.be

I hope so too! I'll keep ya updated. One thing I noticed while I had it all apart is #5 exhaust seal popped up. Who knows how long it would have been before I noticed. All the others appear fine. I was able to re-seat it with a couple screw drivers.

This loose nut will never be fixed, he will continue to do crazy stuff causing more carnage. I'll just try to keep him occupied with something else for a while. Well it's about time I updated this. I said I would when it pans out, while it hasn't quite come together yet, it's getting pretty close. The Story: On the 15th I was going to retorque the head bolts, but I didn't like how little thread engagement the long bolts had. Seeing as we're putting 20% more torque on the same bolt minus the thickness of the washer (SHCS). I had a couple options but I figured the best/fastest one was to get the rockers machined down a smidgen. The 16th I bring them to a local machine shop which I've never used before, the owner who would normally do these things wasn't there. An employee hooks me up on the phone with him, I explain what I'm wanting and all is good, he says he'll look at them and call me before he does anything. I left the rockers there along with a crude sketch of what I'm wanting done to them along with the different measurements. On the 17th he calls but leaves a message stating that he did one already and it will be $100. Me not being familiar with general machining costs I decide that's a little much. I call him back saying for that price I'll pass, but I'll pay him for the one he did. So I get a call from him the 18th saying that they're all done ready to pick up.... WTH? So I headed over there not sure what to expect. Turns out I had the wrong number, I figured this out later due to a call back from the local 'Chamber of Commerce'. Got there and everything looked really good. The finish left looked much better than any other pictures I've seen, so figured he went a little overboard not knowing what the application was for... Fine, for the sake of just being done, I'm cool about everything and give him his $100. All is great, I go on my way. Then doing what I should have done while I was there, I inspected everything. First thing I noticed was one of the bosses was damaged where something was clamped up against it... Then looking at it with a naked eye the steps didn't look square......... Pull out a caliper and sure enough. Some are off .010". So I call him back with my displeasure, but left a message. It was short and sweet, just saying I had a couple questions, if he could call me back, and if I'm not there leave a message stating when would be a good time to call back... I called 2 or 3 times a day except sunday (with the correct number this time), plus left another message with no response from him. Finally the 23rd I stopped by, but no one was there, I left a note asking him to call. Which he did the 24ths morning. So I head over there again (it's almost 20 miles one way), show him the problems, he blames the bad cuts from taking off all the material in one pass... I'm not a machinist so whatever, sounds plausible but isn't my problem. He's cool about it, but says he's not going to be able to take care of it right away, and may be a couple days. On the damaged boss, I basically gave him 3 options. 1) Fix it. 2)give me back $15 and I'll buy another used one for him to machine. 3)leave it and guarantee no damage will result because of it (I explained it was in the oil path). Said he'd try out #1, but may go with #2 depending. He got back to me the 29th saying everything was good to go, I picked them up and everything seems like it will work. Hopefully I can get them all installed in the next couple days.

You are correct, normally smaller is more restrictive which creates more drive pressure. A exhaust housing is basically a way of setting up the turbo for your desired RPM. The stock HX35's housing is a 12CM and loves 1800-2000 RPM. Below that spool up is slower, higher then that Drive Pressure and EGT's get up there. If you get a 14cm, you can move that RPM range up some (how much I don't know). Which helps the top end, but spool up down low is slower. Garret has a bunch of good info here. http://turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/turbine_housing_AR_and_housing_sizing

Lol yeah, I'll be honest, I was on that band wagon back when no one else was, now that everyone is doing it, it's lost it's charm. Besides, if you think I'm going to go with a conventinal set of compounds you don't know me very well. I still haven't got any straight answers out of you as to exactly how fast that thing spools...

I tried to repost the links I found, but it added it to my previous post. so go up there and look again haha. I concur, minions are awesome. What are your goals with this truck? there are millions of turbo options out there, and it's hard to give advice without knowing what you're after. I personally am a sucker for wanting my cake and eating it to, this HE341 should give me my improved spool-up ability, and then I'll likely throw another turbo under it. If you want a stock spooling turbo that can make well over 400hp a HE351 is hard to beat. It's got a 60mm compressor instead of your current 56mm, but the turbine is a 58mm instead of a 60. Plus the turbine housing is a 9cm undevided instead of a 12cm devided. In English, you get a turbo that supports big power, with stock like spooling, and better drive pressure control then stock.

I apologize for not getting back sooner with the holidays and all. Yeah, I don't think it's urgent. You are correct, if you wait to long housing damage could result, though I think your a while from that happening. Then yes, you'd basically have to replace the whole turbo. Honestly, I'm not sure if compressors are normally balanced or not, I would check with whichever shop you purchase from. There are other options for compressor wheels, let me dig up a link. Found it: Upgraded Wheel http://www.pdrdiesel.com/shop/products/Dieselsite_1998_2002_HX35_Wicked_Wheel_2-1030-7.html Whole Turbo - Turbine housing http://www.pdrdiesel.com/shop/products/PDR_HX35_Turbo_Dodge_Cummins_1998_5_02_24V-482-139.html?set_current_currency=1 I recommend you do your own research as to what would work best for you. I'll be swapping to a He341 here pretty soon, you can normally pick them up for ~$200. I don't think they are all the same, but the one I have has a HX35 7 blade compressor, but a tighter exhaust to help spooling, and reports say it flows better then a HX35 up top too... I'll find out.

From what I can see, I think you'd be OK rebuild wise. The oil seepage seems very slight. When the wheel rubs the housing, it will normally make a higher pitch scraching sound, you may have heard it in the video I made. I don't hear it in your video. One thing to keep in mind is that with those chunks out of the wheel, it won't be balanced anymore. So if you plan on just replacing the wheel, sooner would be better than later. On the wheel damage, turbo or wheel shouldn't matter. If you get just a wheel, make sure that it's individually balanced. with your setup, you could probably get away with not balancing the whole assembly when done. Also, if getting just the wheel, get a 7 blade wheel same as your current one, they flow a little better.

Do I see some nicks out of the blade? If that's the case, I would hold on the rebuild and keep an eye open for a replacement.

About the nuts orientation, Vias is correct, a torque wrench would be best. I forgot the newer HX35's have the 12p nut, which means all the parts are balanced individually. Also made these really quick. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oO3LsDZmXHM http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVuToQRhQ1k

It would be best, but you can get away without doing it. Just mark the shaft/wheel/nut orientation and put everything back how it was. Also, why do you suspect the turbo needs rebuilt. If you idle a lot, there's going to be oil in the compressor housing... simple as that. You can check the intercooler too, if there's a bit in there, then I can see needing to rebuild the turbo. I used to idle my engine a considerable amount for different reasons, and the compressor always had oil on it, there was even a bit of oil in the intake tube. Now that I don't need to idle it, there aren't even traces of oil.

I believe that was directed to me and my experimenting.

Can't wait to see where this goes! The shackle flip is something I've wanted to do for a while. I'll be waiting for pictures!