freedomisntfree

If 400 psi is normal than I guess this motor is on its last legs. I keep hearing that 250 - 300 is ok or good... I'm going to take a closer look. It looked good few months back ... sent from my cell...

Alright gentlmen.. I got my results for compression test. Injectors were pop tested and all checked out to be working normal. Cylinder1 - 245 psi2 - 2503 - 250 4 - 2505 - 2506 - 255. I still have that whomp whomp sound thru intake. and as far as I know still burning oil.. I just figured out the edge has settings within each setting. Going to mess with that to see if it gets rid of some idle haze. I'm going to top off the oil and run it some more to ensure it still burning oil. Thnx for any more suggestions u have... And appreciate you guys that following up. sent from my cell...

Single 6 or 7 inch Mitre stack looks Bada$$ on any truck. Twins and aussies look over kill on many trucks I seen. Looked cool as help on some .. I think it how the rest of ur truck is setup to balance things out, for the looks part atleast... Just my opinion. sent from my cell...

Good job on this... I winged mine on my first gen and ended up putting them a little too far forward or back which caused an annoying glare bouncing off the hood. sent from my cell...

I appreciate the follow ups.... Truck still in the shop, I stopped by today and I guess the injectors are still somewhere else getting pop tested... As for the compression test, they had done the first 4 cylinders only because they couldn't get to the 5 and 6 until they get another adapter . Fisrt 4 cylinders came up with around 300.psi. ......... I'm dying to know what 5 and 6 come up with..... I'm going to stop by tomorrow again. I'm maxed out on the fun meter with this issue and I really need my truck back... So I need to put the pressure on .. I keep u posted guys Thnx sent from my cell...

Thanks for the input gentlemen...Truck is in the shop getting injectors pop tested and a compression test done. Hopefully get results Monday..Blowby? - yes I have no blow by whatsoeverDamage to motor from low oil? - I hope not either but truck has ran the same since I pulled out of the shop....Thump thump sound? - yes it is that sound... it sounded that way out of the shop I knew something was not right. It sounds the same 1200 miles later... the only reason I would not think head gasket is because it is brand new... Unless torque down was not right. sent from my cell...

Moparman.... That is weird how that gauge does that ... almost like it doesn't use an oil pressure sensor to tell u what's going on. Cool video thanx... Doesn't leave you trusting that gauge very much at all...sent from my cell...

The truck only sat for 2 months.... If its blowing out the turbo I would think oil would be black and smell like oil. No oil leaks whatsever around motor. ...sent from my cell...

25 mpg at that speed is pretty good I'd say...At 5 mpg I would be in danger of shooting myself.... That's nutssent from my cell...

I will call up shop and schedule a compression test tomoro.... Question.. how low does oil have to be to show low oil pressure or pop up a check engine light?? I did check my gauges religiously and saw no oil pressure losssent from my cell...

I totally forgot compression test even existed. Should have done that long time ago when shop was swapping around injectors to see... I will have them do that for sure. As for the injectors... We had cracked the injectors while running and noise stopped after cracking No.5 injector... Swapped no.5 with no.4 and problem stayed at no 5 cylinder...... So we kind of ruled out injectors at that point... And remained stumped... Just checked the oil after my 800 mile drive and level hasn't dropped a whole lot.. I guess I need more time to confirm how much oil she's drinking. Thnx for input so far gentlemansent from my cell...

Thnx for reading my thread fellas. I'm sure this will put your mind to work alittle... So I bought this truck 2002 4x4 built Auto AFe cold air, Edge comp, stock turbo & inj.... with bad no. 6 cylinder. Local shop pulled the motor and replaced piston, rings, rod, bearings.. etc only on the 6 cylinder all others looked real good.... Now truck smokes alot at idle.. and I have weird sound coming from the intake. I put 1200 miles on it and truck runs real well. Changed oil and filters yesterday and found out it consumed over 1.5 gallons of oil since only about a gallon drained out. Is that normal for a break in of one cylinder ( the hone did need a course hone from what in was told).?? I do check oil frequently but it obviously snook up onme. We have gone over valve clearances few times and they are good. I dsconnected the Edge comp box and still smokes. I'm co concerned about the oil consumption and the sucking air sound thru intake. Things I noticed : 17mpg at 65mph w/ edge maxed No. 1 injector leaves wet spot ontop of head under injector line near cover No smoke while going down the road. Drove from LA, Ca to Wyoming with no issues today ... runs real well idles smooth I know I'm missing some Info but I will stop running my mouth for a bit. Hope I get some good feedback .... Thx fellas sent from my cell...

Yeah.... I know the lift plays a part . But I should be getting atleast 19 I believe. I just drove back to Wyoming today and kept it at 65mph... Managed to pick up 2 mpg... (17mpg) I need to search for an issue tho because I blow white/grey smoke at idle I'm starting a thread so not to steal this one... sent from my cell...

I agree with the 10 mph 5mpg loss. I played with mpg s in my big trucks.. same concept smaller scale... my new to me 02 4x4 scab is getn 14.7pmg @ 70-75 mph ... Not impressed but I do have lift and bigger tires. I will drop my speed to 65 on my trip back up north Utah.. sent from my cell...

I saw a post the other day... A guy bought some morimoto mini projector kit... Disassembled the headlight unit drilled a bit cut a bit and made some kick a$$ headlights... Pictures showed amazing lighting and didn't have that ricer bling led ... Also I imagine with much more reliability since morímoto projectors are quality... Used a clear headlight unit though sent from my cell...

I agree projector housing are way more effective...... Just the look is what bothers me... Maybe someone can posts some pics of their projector setup for an idea of what will look like. Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk 2

Got some awesome info from Daniel Sterling.....they seem like stand up guys... i totally agree with them on aftermarket housing quality ... plz read entire post... lots of good info here... Put in a set of the '99-'01 Dodge Ram 1500 Sport headlamps, which are *much* better than the lamps all non-Sport '94-'02 style Rams got. The Sport lamps use two bulbs per side (a 9007 high/low and a 9004 high-only) and produce much more effective, longer and wider, better focused beam patterns. They physically fit right in, but require some wiring adaptation, which is just as well since the factory wiring tends to starve the bulbs. You need: -a set (left and right) of the '99-'01 Dodge Ram 1500 Sport headlamps. Get the real ones from the dealer or www.chryslerpartsdirect.com , not the Taiwanese knockoffs from eBay or elsewhere on the internet; the low price of the aftermarket units is attractive, of course, but despite "OEM quality" and "DOT/SAE approved" claims, they are junk (more info below). Factory part numbers are as follows: Headlamp, left: 55077 025AC Headlamp, right: 55077 024AC Park/turn lamp, left: 55077 033AC Park/turn lamp, right: 55077 032AC The original park/turn lamps can be used with the new headlamps; I've listed the Sport type park/turn units because their clear-lens design matches that of the Sport headlamps. Also note that the above numbers may from time to time be updated or superseded as noted when you do a part number search on chryslerpartsdirect.com or realmopar.com - go ahead and buy whatever the latest part number is. -A Dodge Ram conversion wiring and relay installation package RIK-RAM, $79 here. The installation package includes all necessary plugs, sockets, terminals, fused fuseholders, relays, relay brackets, terminal blocks, etc. -- everything except actual wire -- to install the new headlamps _and_ eliminate the voltage drop present in the factory-type wiring. You supply your own wire and use the parts from the kit to build up your own wiring harness. Specific instructions are provided, and the concept is explained athttp://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html .Parts are specially made premium-grade items (e.g. ceramic headlamp sockets) that accept large-gauge wire; this is not the "consumer grade" junk you can find at the parts store. Or, I can have my harness builder custom build you a ready-to-install harness assembly using the same components. Cost for this option is $161.44 (including parts and labour - you pick _either_ the relay kit _or_ the custom-built harness. It costs more than the chintzy and unreliable $30 to $50 Chinese prefab harnesses because it is not a Chinese prefab harness). Either way, the in-cab switches continue working normally, and you will not need to cut or otherwise disturb any of the vehicle's original wires. And either method will work fine on a dual-battery Ram. -A set (two 9007 and two 9004) of ultra high efficacy bulbs. The best 9007 bulbs presently on the market are the Philips Xtreme Power items: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00480N16S/ or the GE Night Hawk Platinums: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UX7I9G The best 9004 bulbs presently on the market are the GE Night Hawk Platnium 9004NHP: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UX7I9G Do not buy blue or "extra white" bulbs (Silver Star, Crystal Vision, TruView, Hoen, PIAA, etc.); despite the heavy advertising push and claims of "brighter and whiter" light, they actually produce _less_ light due to the blue glass they use. More info on original vs. aftermarket lamps: All of the aftermarket lamps, whether they're original-looking or restyled, are trash. The low price is attractive, but the quality, performance, and durability are all substantially and dangerously inferior to the genuine items. This goes for all the many brands of aftermarket lamp—TYC, Genera, Depo, DJAuto, ScanTech, and many other brands (and unbrands) of original-looking and restyled lamps, not to mention the newest wave of trash coming in from China under names like Helix and Sonar (projector headlamp conversions, clear-lens conversions, angel eyes, LED lines, etc...every bit of it dangerously badly made). There is no optical engineering behind any of these; they are headlamp-shaped toys made from physical copies of the originals, which is not even close to adequate. One might as well make a mould of your eyeglasses lenses and expect to be able to cast new working eyeglass lenses from the mould. The level of shape precision required to accurately focus the beam can only be achieved with optical engineering _from scratch_. Copies don't even begin to get in the ballpark. Light distribution is way, way out of line with what it should be. Usually the DOT and/or ECE safety approval or certification marks are fraudulent or counterfeit. "Perfect OE fit and performance" is often promised in the ads for the copycat lamps. This is an out-and-out lie. Take a look at http://www.capacertified.org/press/CAPALighting3.pdf , which is the report on a large government-sponsored test of OE vs. TYC and Depo versions of simple, cheap American-vehicle headlamps. Even though TYC is widely regarded as the least-awful of a pathetic bunch, still a complete failure by the TYC & Depo units (see page 21 and 30 if you don't have time to read the whole report). There is only one proper operational setup for the Sport lamps, and that is as follows: Low beam mode: Low beam filament of outboard 9007 bulb on, all other filaments off. Got some great info from Dan sterling High beam mode: High beam filament of outboard 9007 and high beam filament of inboard 9004 on, all other filaments off. The low beam filament of the inboard 9004 is not used -- these lamps do not have optics to focus the light from it. In NO case are the low beam and high beam filaments on together! Two-filament headlight bulbs are pressurized to about 10 atmospheres COLD. They are not designed to handle the heat (or the current on the common filament support lead) of running both filaments at the same time for more than very brief periods during beam changeover or headlight flashing. Doing so carries the very real risk of the bulb grenading inside the headlamp, destroying it (and holding the beam selector switch to run both at the same time will cook your wiring and switches). Some people who think they're clever wire it up this way anyhow, and the "Brite Box" people have made a business out of this "clever" (not) modification.

I emailed dan sterling lighting 5 mins ago and already got a response... Great info. Would u like me to cut n paste it here? Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk 2

Projectors put out an awesome even light... But too much bling for the 2ng gen IMOP.... Im thinking maybe top of the line bulbs and maybe add some light force driving lights...???? Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk 2

Subscribed.... Just realized that my eyes get reall worn out with bad visibility on my 02 ... I dont want HID.. Sent from my HTC6435LVW using Tapatalk 2