freedomisntfree

just an update on my steering.... i replaced the box (Redhead) since i had already ordered it anyways thinking it was the problem.... what a difference ... wow.. night and day. steering is real nice ... Still need an alignment and the right side balljoiints are getting done today. Glad i did this because this truck is not all over the road anymore.

Now I want to switch to manual....

Sweeeeet thnx. I'm on my way to pick it up. Thnx guys

Yes sir. That's the bastard that backed out.

Track bar sorry. The one that has the ball joint on driver side and connects to axle and frame I need the bolt that goes through the bracket and the bushing of the track bar

Guys I need your help. Update to my gear box going out. It wasn't my gear box. The bolt on the torque bar backed out completely. When I limped home I parked it and left for work. Came back today had time to get under there and had my pops move steering. .. I need the size and specs of the bolt ASAP. So I can go to a bolt store. Thnx guys

This is a very delicate process and should be taken more serious than I did when I replaced my injectors. I found out the hard way.

Yeah that feeling is enough to make u crap ur pants if u get out alive... i feel really blessed that nothing happened. just last week I let my bro in law borrow my truck to move .. my little 2yr old nephew loves riding in that truck. Glad to hear my steering box will bolt up. How About The Synergy Ball Joints. Anyone use them?? I never heard of them. But since pure Diesel Power had them on their website I figured they were good. And they were nice enough to give me the military discount

thnx Faoro i have a steering brace on already...im hoping i dont run into fitment issues with the new box and brace... i have some Lukes link kit for the pitman arm and thats about it...

edge comp... i have been told to disconnect and see if it helps... havent gotten around to that yet.

ok.. guys well... my steering box showed me signs for a while it was on its way so i dont blame the box. It had developed a leak over a month ago.. Anyways, doing 60mph on an offramp getting to my house going around the curve, it decides to go. All of a sudden it shoots straight and had to correct it by almost a full turn on the steering wheel.. i made it through and steering was really loose and leaking a little more. i made it home safely. I really wanted to get this out there to you guys that like to live on the edge. I ordered a Redhead steering box and 4 Synergy ball joints ...ball joints have been bad for few months atleast. I was going to install them myself but i decided to let the pros do it. I need to know from you suspension guys what else i could do while they have the front end torn apart .... thnx guys

Watch your electric meter before and after u hook up your block heater. I did that once and saw that thing spin like a merry go round

Sorry guys for late response. My notifications aren't coming in for some reason. I'm going to check that TV linkage. .. my gearing is 3.53 and tires are 33s. Torque converter I'm not sure but trans is built DDT. I assume has good converter. CT CUMMINS 24 I did adjust the cable at the apps and brought my shifts sooner. Opposite of what u want. Night and day difference on my shift point. That fixed my late shift but did nothing for kick down issue

Well guys... i replaced my blower motor as suggested and now seems to run fine. Purchased one from Napa $56. 1 yr warranty. Got all the speeds back 1-4... i compared the spinning resistance on both motors and.... yep, the old one drags alot, new one spins freely ... much appreciated guys... i can't stress enough, nothing is free in this world. If u have benefited from the information on this forum, plz donate become a premium member.. it is not required I'm sure.... but I bet it takes money and time to keep this site up and running. Thnx fellas

Definitely gonna drop the blower ... seems easy enough. Thnx guys for the info... gonna stop using the AC til I drop the blower. Don't want to burn up my new resistor. Question..... any suggestions on where to get a good blower. Mopar style on ebay is $130. Other brands are $50.

Well guys. Was really really really happy when I replaced my blower motor resistor. A/C is back .... but now seems like speed 1 moved over to speed 2 position. Speed 2 went to 3 position and 3 on 4 position. On speed 1 it slowly stops blowing. And speed 4 seems alot like speed 3. Doesn't blow as fast. The resistor I used was Mopar resistor. Any thoughts??

Well I want to plug in a different gauge to rule out bad readings... maybe I can T off and install a another gauge ... i do t want to remove the one in the cab unless I have to. Moparman... i agree with the lower temp lower pressure ... and I took that in consideration but the difference is way too much. Also the pressures were not much different while I was in Oklahoma City area 95deg. .. i will keep this thread updated. I will do another run soon... thnx for your input guys.

ok... i felt the need to put my .02... didnt have time to read all posts.. but i use a shumaker also have little quick connect installed on my batteries... and i have hooked it up to the passenger side battery, assuming both batteries get the charge. i had something drawing down my batteries so i kept the tender on there while i went away for work for 3 days. when i came back the tender would be on green but only one battery got the charge. i know this because i put my battery load tester on the battery ... disconnected prior of course. .. only one battery got the charge. maybe terminals werent 100% clean ... but that is just my finding... my point is, its not as easy as your motorcycle makes it look... that little battery and battery tender do well for motorcycle batteries.. just not sure for these bigger batteries..

the whole time in Silverton area )south colorado i wasnt much more than 12psi at idle ... fuel pressure picked up alittle once i got into iowa on I-80.. fuel pressure wasnt 100% normal til a day or two after i was home... when i hit cali on I-10 i was back up to 13psi atleast.. i doubt fuel quality is an issue because i carried atleast 130 gallons of double filtered fuel.

i figured altitude had something to do with it... but i know im not the only one up there with a FASS ..... i really need to figure this out before my next trip...

wasnt pulling anything... carrying maybe 800lbs worth of camping stuff. my gauge is VP max . Just idling or very low boost fuel pressure sucked... i noticed this on two seperate trips now....

Ok fellas... so every road trip I have made lately I get low fuel pressure at high elevation.... here at home in LA I get 15 - 16psi ... i went up to the Rockies in Colorado... the whole time I was running 10- 12 psi...drove east towards iowa.... pressure started getting better...continued south gets better. When I get back to so. California I'm back up to 15psi... please rule out fuel filters because I had new FASS filters on it... what you all think??

ok fellas.. ... i searched for kick down threads and i would think there be alot of threads but no... My main issue is i have to kick the overdrive out to jump out of my lane and pass a car. or getting on an onramp once i pick up speed it shifts to soon unless im really pedal to metal. so when its on the last gear in overdrive there is no going back. I dont like hot rodding all over the place but if i want to pass a little honda its embarassing sometimes.. just put in 100 hp injectors, adjusted bands at trans... replaced intercooler boots.... its got power just not going very far at 1100 rpm... thnx guys for ur help

Daaaamn.... i knew was too good to be true. Moparman, thnx for the advice. I wanted to replace my alternator anyways..

While in the marine corps, we had to put 60+ amphibious vehicles on blocks and take out every single bolt off the track system to put antiseize and retorque.... after years of constant salt water abuse and every climate u can think of.... no more bloody knuckles.. that stuff does wonders. Now every bolt I take off on my truck gets a coat off antiseize.