Ltk

im a little confused on what the oil pressure gauge and copper tubing has to do with things. im here to be educated so school me! would it be wiser just to use a mechanical fp gauge instead? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

so does the gauge need replaced? is that what your talking about when you say the "sender"or is it a piece inside the gauge? i cant seem to find just a gauge, its all wiring and all the other stuff i already have

yep its electronic

when idling or driving or wot it moves between 20-22. every now and then it will spike up to 28-30 and back down to 20-22 again. is this bad? could it cause problems? or is this an indication of something bad to come?? thanks guys te airdog 150 and isspro ev2 fuel gauge were ontruck when i bought it. i didnt install it so i do not know much about it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

thank you man, i am glad too.. im not used to these cheap repairs. every little problem on my 6.0 seemed to be $1000

started at the pump tracing wires... shouldve worked the other way around because it ended up being the crimp on the ground connector was broken and dangling beside the battery. fixed it up in 2 minutes and everything is all good now! of course i always fear the worst in my mind after dealing with my 6.0 for 3 years... (its gone now ) glad it was a cheap free fix! 3 cent piece that i have hundreds of fixed her right up thanks guys

no havent checked that yet, can i test that with a voltage tester?

i will go out and check the codes in a minute and report back here, shouldve done that to begin with - - - Updated - - - Just figured out my airdog isnt working. Turn the key and cant hear it "growl" like it normally does. Any pointers? Was on the truck when i bought it so im clueless - - - Updated - - - Just figured out my airdog isnt working. Turn the key and cant hear it "growl" like it normally does. Any pointers? Was on the truck when i bought it so im clueless

Last week i was drivin down a bumpy gravel road when all of a sudden my fuel pressure gauge hits 0 and "quits working" Didnt think a thing about it. Drove home and parked it for 5 days while on vacation. Came back today, started just fine, first crank like always. Drove 20 miles and parked. 3 hours later i try to start it and it cranks for 3-4 seconds before starting perfectly. Trucks idle is slighty bouncing around and having a slight surge every once in a while. What should i check? Sorry im not the most techically gifted. I have a smarty and its set on level 2. Other info in sig what makes this a 911 situation is the amount of travelling i have been doing, and will need to continue doing for the next couple of months!

just fantastic... went offroading for a while last night and got on a very bumpy road going about 25 MPH.. when i come to a stop i notice my fuel pressure is 0..i think its the gauge that broke this time, it stays on 0, ive plugged it in, tried plugging it in where my pyrometer gauge is, etc. nothing works. but my pyro gauge will work where the fuel pressure gauge is supposed to be. anyone know of a place i can buy an isspro ev2 white faced gauge without all the wiring? everywhere i look its $130~ for it including wiring. all i need is the gauge

after searching for a broken spot in a wire for hours on miles and miles of lighting in our barn i am fed up with electrical issues :banghead:i need to buy a soldering iron and learn how to use it properly... i can pigtail and splice like a champ, but it will never be as solid

yea i need to get all mechanical gauges, just cant justify buying them when these work :ahhh:didnt really find the problem it kinda worked itself out

yea for real! they make so much sense!

yep it was tapped into the intake horn. i traced it back and found no bad spots in the wire. i took the gauge out, unplugged it, blew in the holes incase somehow they were dirty, and plugged it back in. now its working

ok i will check under there first thing in the morning and report back here

so on my 12 hour drive to the beach, about halfway through the trip after stopping at a rest stop, the boost gauge stopped working. then the last 6 hours i get to watch the gauge sweep from 0 to straight down past 60 psi.. :banghead: extremely distracting and fun to watch due to prolonged boredom during the drive..i bought the truck with the gauges on them, and i honestly have no clue where the boost gauge even leads to. what should i check first? thanks guys, sorry for the newbie questions

thank you i sure appreciate it!!

so that pack of adapters in the link will let me use the shift knob?

has anyone used this site before? http://www.americanshifter.com/products/Custom-Laser-Engraved-Shift-Knobs/ i was wondering if the thread size on these (16mm x 1.5) will fit the nv5600 stick in my 2001 dodge? cant find any info on the search feature about the thread size on the stick

IMO, I wouldnt think any color would look right on black except for black which you wouldnt be able to see. id still do them for the rust protection and save the paint from rock chips though

im still the clueless idiot that has no clue how to wire this :banghead: if i use a fuse tap do i need to cut any wires, or can i just splice into the hot lead on the 12v power port?

i believe i will order the amazon one, it qualifies for free shipping with the Amazon Prime membership. Rogan, doesnt that block your rearview a little bit?

Could you snap a pic of your GPS location when you get a chance? this idea might work better and save me from having it blocking my view a little bit i dont have an O'Reilly's locally, i will look into that on their website! so the 2 port 12v power outlet you bought came with a fuse and everything? did you still have to splice into an ignition-hot wire? i found this, is this the one you bought also? http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/CA00/10242/N0318.oap?ck=Search_N0318_-1_-1&pt=N0318&ppt=C0092

mike you have out-done yourself again, but you have went completely above my head and knowledge level the only other thing i will ever have is a CB, but i will wire that straight to a ignition switched fuse. so instead of splicing into a wire that is only hot with ignition on would i be able to run the hot wire from the 12v power outlet to a prong of a fuse that is only hot with ignition, and then ground to a chassis or body ground? your welcome partner, this idea came to me because i kept having to unplug my phone charger and plug the gps into the ignition hot 12v power outlet, and the wires kept wrapping around my stick so i got a little ticked and tried to think of something more clever

Ok so heres my plan to make life easier, I'm just needing advice from someone who has done this, or knows anything about wiring because I surely dont :cool:I bought a GPS with a window mount the other day, and having cords draped across my radio controls is possibly the worst thing to put me into OCD mode... So, I came up with a plan.I am wanting to wire up another 12v power outlet under the dash above the pedals somewhere out of the way. I want this power outlet to be switched, (when I turn my key on, the power comes on, when I turn key off the power goes off) just like the 12v power outlet beside the ashtray on our 2nd gen trucks.Can anyone explain to me step by step what I would need to do to wire this? Do I need to cut and splice into a wire that has power only when the key is on? I don't want to mess anything up.. Do I need to get wires for the new 12v power outlet that is the same gauge as the wire I will be splicing into? Any advice, pointers, or online wiring schematics would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks guys, hope someone can chime in and let me pick their brain a little bit