Ltk

Yes sir it was driving me crazy as well, thanks for the phone calls and your help!

We were right, the harness itself was wired incorrectly. IAT and ECT plugs reversed. New harness arrived and problem solved! 3 and 6 both work with correct values displayed.

Is it possible that my IAT sensor is bad? Zero codes on the truck with the Quadzilla harness unhooked though.

Followed the exact startup procedure you described with the new PCB board Quadzilla sent me. Here’s the results after 5 minutes of idling; 6 cyl mode engaged on the switch, still at idle RPM. Here’s the exact same procedure that I described above , except 3 cylinder mode instead of 6 cylinder. 5 minutes of waiting after restart with 3 cyl enabled before start. No idle change, here’s the IAT and ECT temperatures.

Nope, 6 cyl does not work either.

Received the PCB board and new rotator switch. Installed it, still acts the same. When truck is running and I switch from off to 3 cyl I got a big idle surge and then nothing. Any thoughts? Quadzilla has mailed me out a new harness so I'm still waiting for that right now.

Hey Mike, I contacted Quadzilla Monday and they are sending me out a new PCB board and switch. I will keep you updated on how that turns out. They will send me a wiring harness if that doesn't correct things.

Yes sir I sure will, thanks!

Hate to hear that, Mike! Haven’t been active on these forums in several years just now getting back to driving my 2nd gen. Do you think I’m going to need to buy a new IAT sensor or have my ECM rebuilt?

Yes I purchased the Quadzilla version. Why is it not working? My IAT sensor and ECM should be fine or I'd be throwing a code with the Quadzilla kit uninstalled, right?

So how do I fix this and get my high idle kit to work? Sorry, I’m not following.

What does this mean? Is my IAT sensor bad or is this an ECM problem?

Ahh okay, sorry about that! Took a minute but I figured it out and made it a little easier to see. The pics are as follows: 6 cyl, 3 cyl, MPG, OFF

I am getting the following results for 6 cyl and 3 cyl respectively.

Thanks, I will check that in the morning and report back. I should be able to see that with the OBDlink MX+ (I hope)

Hey guys, I have installed the new Quadzilla high idle box (3 cyl/6cyl) sold by DieselAutoPower Mike developed years ago. When I hook it up as it says (IAT sensor and Coolant Temp sensor) I get the following codes and the unit does not work. I have verified both sensors are in fact working as well as the grid heater relays are both operational. When connecting them back to factory configuration and clearing codes, those codes do not reappear and everything functions normally with no further codes being thrown. Any idea what I could be doing wrong? Truck is programmed with a Smarty S03, 3 cylinder idle is active and does work properly with outside temperatures. Thanks in advance! Logan Kendrick 606-794-3951

any pros/cons of winter formula vs XDP? cant really find much info on them

alright so opti lube it is. should i do xdp or their winter blend? also i take it i shouldnt keep using 2 stroke while im using this anti-gel? mike you say dont keep using it, what do you mean? can i use it every fill all winter or what? ive never added anything but 2 stroke so im curious why i shouldnt run it too long?

hey guys just a quick question i changed fuel filters the other day because it had been about 10000 miles since the last change. the fuel inside was crystallizing and almost snot-like consistency lol anyways, my question here is: which anti-gel? i have read the HFRR testing article on here, i have read other testings, and it looks like opti lube is the way to go, but theres a few different ones that contain anti-gel but my concerns are that it claims to boost cetane which i thought wasnt a good thing? i need an anti-gel to use this winter because last winter i did have 1 instance of gelling with a wind chill of -15, supposed to be worse this year.. please school me on the cetane situation with this stuff, and what i should/shouldnt run thanks guys!

I don't know how to do that or I would

at first i thought i was, but i actually misread the dipstick. complete blonde moment honestly oil is fine, perfect level still. blue smoke is gone, no hard idle. starts first crank. mopar screwed me for $130 for the relays though. couldnt find them anywhere else

thank you guys for all the info and ideas!

grid heater relays werent working. replaced them and all good to go! started great after 10 hours in 15 degree weather. not blue smoking or smoking at all, running perfect. pretty strange

alright, will do tomorrow

i feel like this is going to be expensive as crap.. its about 1/4 inch above the safe zone top line. should i drive it or pay a tow bill?