Cheatham

my truck was cranking a little slow so I took both batteries to Interstate Batt and one of them showed good charge but a bad cell under load so I replaced both, id say take your batteries have them tested, these trucks are sensitive to electrical gremlins

Congrats. now youll be looking for reasons to go take it for a drive.:thumb1:

I have a quart of amsoil 2 cycle injector oil iv thought about adding along with my walmart 2troke oil I may try it

just the other day I looked at my ground on pass. side near battery with the gray connections ( 2 of them ) I know a ground should be solid with no splices, so I slid it apart and there was no resistance, I took the plastic gray connecters apart ez to do and reconnected and it slid on and off very easly, I got the solder iron and soldered the connections, at Boeing we had to do ground stud resistance check with ohm meter I don't remember the specs but anyhow I wished I had ohmed the ground before and after, the factory made them this way to make assembly easier and quicker, with time im sure vibration heat and cold cause the connections to lose their bite and now we have the symtoms, I also took all the grounds on the metal and cleaned to bare metal and installed a washer then ground then bolt for a better contact, also silicone should be applied to protect the ground bolt or screw,that's how we did grounds at Boeing. it seemed to make things better on the truck. I don't know if this will pertain to your problem but thought id share since our trucks are built the same

Autozone part #19273

check your wheel alignment.

sounds like the kick down cable is too tight, it will cause late shifts and wanting to downshift, my shifter is a little out of adjustment so I usually go from park to Low1 and shift into drive and the tranny will shift normal, what im trying to say is it can hang up between gears and cause problems. you need to see if the spring is still attached to the kick down lever on tranny too

Just a sign of a healthy tranny, a higher performance VB will go into gear quik but as you said a torque conv and idle speed will determine how hard it hits going in gear

Got the proper relay from autozone 19273 wired it up cranked fuel psi back up to 19 and it starts with just a quik blip of the key. I cut and spliced the wires from the LP so I didn't have to cut into the factory wiring. I think I will do like my drag car and drop the tank install a #8 bulkhead at the Bottom lowest point and move the airdog 100 closer to the tank and replace the banjos with AN fittings extend the wires, the pump will then be gravity fed and work ezr and supply all the fuel it needs and maybe add a t fitting to sump the tank now and then to keep it clean. - - - Updated - - - Got the proper relay from autozone 19273 wired it up cranked fuel psi back up to 19 and it starts with just a quik blip of the key. I cut and spliced the wires from the LP so I didn't have to cut into the factory wiring. I think I will do like my drag car and drop the tank install a #8 bulkhead at the Bottom lowest point and move the airdog 100 closer to the tank and replace the banjos with AN fittings extend the wires, the pump will then be gravity fed and work ezr and supply all the fuel it needs and maybe add a t fitting to sump the tank now and then to keep it clean.

Will a Autozone RL44 relay work ? it has 85 86 87 an 30 There is no 87 and 87a only 87.

Ill be mainly driving empty no loads nor trailer so ill give the throttle a good stretch, im in flat area except for a tall bridge which I hope the VP will never go out on me on anyways the tall long bridge is a good test road to put a load on a vehical, ill have to find your diag. to the fuel pump relay and bump the pressure back up. the truck is all stock , no programmers, just straight piped.

As far as cranking pressures you hit it, it bounces 9-11. Like I said iv backed down pressure it idles 14.5 - 15 psi . Ive never put my foot to the floor but at 16-1700 rpm about 65mph its about 12 - 13 psi and seem to be at that psi at even lighter throttle . I seem to remember when the idle psi was at 18psi it would cruise at 15 - 16psi . I just don't wanna start doin wot runs and get bugs coming out that I don't want to see lol, I did run it about 3/4 throttle one time and pressures stayed at about 13 and seemed to loosen or wake things up in the motor because it has ran smoother and accelerates better and gauge on turbo seems to spool up better than it had before and probably because it had its first drink with 2 cycle lube mixed in it. Im a little lost on the cranking pressure test you just described by pulling the relay ? Will I then need to hook a gauge to the VP to test the pressures coming out of the VP ? - - - Updated - - - As far as cranking pressures you hit it, it bounces 9-11. Like I said iv backed down pressure it idles 14.5 - 15 psi . Ive never put my foot to the floor but at 16-1700 rpm about 65mph its about 12 - 13 psi and seem to be at that psi at even lighter throttle . I seem to remember when the idle psi was at 18psi it would cruise at 15 - 16psi . I just don't wanna start doin wot runs and get bugs coming out that I don't want to see lol, I did run it about 3/4 throttle one time and pressures stayed at about 13 and seemed to loosen or wake things up in the motor because it has ran smoother and accelerates better and gauge on turbo seems to spool up better than it had before and probably because it had its first drink with 2 cycle lube mixed in it. Im a little lost on the cranking pressure test you just described by pulling the relay ? Will I then need to hook a gauge to the VP to test the pressures coming out of the VP ? - - - Updated - - - .1 VAC Mike has a vid of the test, its in the article section on what 4 things will hurt the VP. I hope I remembered that correctly.

It was at 18psi but then was getting the hard to start so I backed it down to 15 psi to able the starts a little easier as far as the VP psi output I haven't seen any test for that are there any ? Maybe I should crank the LP psi and do the relay ? I was thinking while at cruising rpms the fuel is going through the VP isn't that suffiecient to keeping the pump cool and while at idle at 15 psi the return is allowing the fuel to pass and cool ? im no expert by a long shot so plz educate me on this.

Just trying to take all the steps to keep my vp going strong as I don't know its history as iv only owned the truck little over a month now. So with meter on DC engine running = 13.97 V switch to AC =.03 - .04 according to Mikes vid .1 is the limit ? so im hoping im good to go for a good while its a quik and ez check. with over 300,000 miles im assuming the VP maybe its been replaced but I don't know, it did still have a carter LP but its replaced now with a airdog 100.

What did you have prior to the change ? Is your truck modded or all stock ?

The answers I was looking for after I installed my boost gauge:thumbup2:

I may try some contact cleaner in the switch if that dont help then 67.00 for a new switch from Dodge i guess.

I got the banjo fitting with the 1/8npt and I had hi psi hoses and gauges already so I connected at the vp pump line going in after the filter I bought the Airdog 100 it has all fittings and is ez to install. that makes since about the fuel at cold temps which the auto perf pumps would have problems, im on the Tx Gulf Coast so cold temps hardly exsist here lol.

I will adjust it to 17psi. Ive also wondered why not use a pump like a holley, aeromotive racing gas pumps and a regulator if needed ? they can handle methanol/gas so I don't see why not diesel ? also was wondering why not move the block pump closer to the tank lenthen the wires and fuel line ? then the pump doesn't have to pull so much and can push the fuel.

Good info here, Just bought me 01 2500 the tranny in mine works great so far, I have built a few 727s ( older mopar trannys ) the 47re externally looks similar to the 727 and iv pulled the pan and it looks about the same as the 727 so if I ever have a issue I will probably rebuild it myself, the manual valve body will eliminate all issuses with shifting but you will be having to shift into gear yourself and a manual vb will have increased line pressures and hard hitting shifts and a longer lasting tranny, I am going to check with John Cope @ Cope Racing Transmissions hes a mopar tranny builder and ask him about any mods for the 47re, and like the 727s and 904s the 47re looks like it still uses the throttle pressure for shift points, I hated the throttle kick down on older trannys so id always use a transpak or manual vb, the way they worked is the more you pull the lever or cable the higher the line psi and higher rpm and harder the shift, the less the the pull on cable or lever ( lower line psi ) the faster the shift will occur and softer, im not an expert but hope this helps

01 2500 driver side seat the switch forward and back work fine but there are other switches for up and down and tilt that are not working I swore I checked this when I first saw the truck, Iv only had the truck for 1 week, haven't looked for a bad fuse but I figured if the fwd/aft switch works the same fuse shuld work other switches ?

New pump is installed, it had a Carter maybe it had been changed as the bolts and fittings were barely tightened got it started and adjusted pressure to 15psi, is this enough ? I replaced the breather tube with a longer one and installed in a bottle to catch any oil, now I pulled the fan and shroud to clean the built up mess, glad to have found this site with suggestions and answeres.

Should have my new airdog tomorrow, what do I need to do to get to the lift pump on motor to swap it out ? do I need to remove starter ? or remove fuel filter canister ? or is it accessable as it sets ? any link or info that will make it go ez I will appreciate thnx

Just bought a 2001 2500, 307 000 miles automatic, very clean and well maintained, I installed a mech fuel psi gauge, at idle 8 1/2 psi, at 60mph about 1600 rpm its at 7psi, is this low enough to hurt the vp44 ? iv hardly driven it as I am getting little stuff fixed first, iv ordered a Airdog frrp, its a stock motor and will stay stock and used as a daily driver about 6 000 miles per year and occasional light towing will this pump be suffiecient ? I don't know the maintance history of the truck as far as the vp44 being replaced nor the carter style lift pump.