MoparDave68

So apparently I'm the dunce! What ever I applied 12V too was not my lift, My lift pump is in the tank. The only thing on the side of my bolck is the filter housing and some block the fuel goes through before the filter housing. So now after smacking myself in the head a few times I realise that I must of just been so frustrated and confused that I over looked this majorly. It oesn't change the issue or the solution to the issue, but I wonder what I applied 12V to. LOL. I'm still looking to do the AirDog upgrade, but I'm, glad I now know for sure my fuel system. What is that block before the filter? It has fuel in and out and that is it. Three studes hold it to a plate off the block and a screw holds a tab on it for the fuel line.

Well I'll be doing the AirDog150 and the Fuel Pressure Gauge. I realize it's critical so it's definitely worth the coin. I will look at the 165 also.

I think my lift pump is on the side of the block. SO it will totally eliminate that system and put in place a completely separate new fuel pumping system? A much better one at that

I have applied 12V to the pump with no success, I think, somehow, I fried it while messing around with all the wires coming off the battery. Not sure if its possible but I must of done something. No check engine light on but I also haven't scanned it. - - - Updated - - - I think I'm gonna go with the AirDog 150. Ive read a lot about it and nothing bad has come from it. Does this pump eliminate the need for the intake pump and block mounted pump?

From the research I'm doing I believe it is my Lift Pump. I cycle the key and am not getting any movement of fuel from it to the filter bowl. Ive been reading that the factory lift pumps are crap and should go with an AirDog or FASS system. I'm looking at the AirDog 150. Good system to go with? Any issues with em? Whats the lifespan I can expect from it?Or the AirDog Raptor FRRP. Which is a little more my price. LOL

I had my suspicions that the Grid Heater didn't effect starting other than in cold weather but still won't prevent the truck to start. But I was hopeing that it would be that simple. I replaced the solenoid and the cables, still no start. Truck cranks nice and fast, no start. Cracked a fuel line, no fuel. Replaced fuel pump relay, no fuel still. Looking at possibly a fuel pump now. Gona trace al my wires, make sure nothing is disconnected. :pray:Any tips for fuel pump? Easier to drop tank or lift the bed?*UPDATE*I was doing a little research and found a test for the lift pump. Cylce the ignition so the starter cranks quick but doesnt start, leave in in the "run" posistion. Lift pump should cycle for 25 seconds. Mine does not. Mine won't even fill the filter houseing. The lift pump is located on the drivers side of the block if I'm ot mistaken. Is there any other tests I can do to confirm this?

Well I pulled the fuseable link wires running from the battery down to the solenoid and my batteries held charge over night, for two nights now. :think:I'm thinking that the solenoid(s) were sticking open, causing my batteries to die, and causing the smoke I saw coming from the heavily corroded and split open solenoid wires. :shrug:The new solenoid and wires should be here tonight and tomorrow will get installed. Hopeing this is my issue and all will be back to normal tomorrow.

As far as I know my charging system is good, at least to my knowledge, the batteries are iffy. The Grid Heater wires were smoking cause of the corrosion, I think my issue might be in that circuit somewhere. :think:I fully charged it before I left work (But it wont start or stay running so I didn't take it home) to see how much draw is lost over night now that I cleaned up connections, removed the grid heater circuit that was shot and replace a terminal connection with a gold plated connector. Where can I find those wires, (ie napa) or is it something I can make up. It has the fuse-able link in line so I figure I should get an OEM replacement. *UPDATE*I found the wires and solenoid on eBay, so I bought them. I decided to replace that whole circuit to eliminate it from my possibility. Seeing as the wires were so bad, its probably a good move.

Sunday morning the ole girl was deader than a door nail. No juice. :think:Had to go to my fiance and my wedding shower so I couldn't work on er till about 1800 last night. I threw a charger on it, not even 30 seconds later she fired up and ran like a champ. I took er up the street to make sure everything worked out all right, no issues. Went out this morning dead again. :doh:SO I threw the charger on it and it started with no issue in less than 30 seconds. Got er to work, Dead by Lunch. :banghead: SO now I'm thinking bad battery(ies), I load test them, both are weak but not BAD yet. SO I start looking, I find the wires going to the Grid Heater relay corroded to high heaven and making smoke with the battery charger on it, so I take em off only to find out they are some fuseable link also. I clean up my battery terminals and cables, leave the grid heater cables off. Charge it up and it starts great. Then is surged twice, and stalled. Now it will not start at all. :mad:Cranks great, dies quick. No Codes showing. Any ideas of what is going on? DO those heater grid cables ned to be in place? Any one seen this before? :shrug:Just went over and tried to start er again. She fired after about 15 seconds then stumbled and died.

That's why no mater where I go, I back in to my spot or find a spot to pull all the way through. I never pull in anywhere, way to many idiots out there that don't give you the time needed to back out of a parking spot. Every one is always in such a rush to go no were, it's sickening.

Well I think it's settled, I'm gonna definitely go with a 6 speed, now just gotta figure out which one. G56 or NV5600. lol

Don't worry the white flag was just a quick test. Ive got the black "Don't Tread On Me" flag with a Skull and Cross bones on it. Goes with the "Black Pearl" Theme lol. What's wrong with the 24 sticker?

So I had a bunch of random fire truck parts laying around the shop and I decided I was going to make a flag pole and holder for my truck. I used a piece of Pierce grab rail for the holder, it's attached to my tool box via grab rail stanchions off a Pierce. The flag pole itself is a piece of stainless rod used in ROM roll up doors on Pierces, the clips are off of Scott Air Pack Brackets, and the misc. hardware is all Pierce issued stainless hardware. Of course the first flag I had to fly was the 100th Anniversary of Pierce Fire Trucks flag

I'm running 35 inch tires, they have a pretty aggressive tread to em. I never plan on going smaller, or bigger really lol. I'm happy where I'm at tire size wise. I would like to do a 3-4" lift someday and still run 35's. I'm 6'8" so The height of the truck fits me nice lol . As far as high out put torque, engine wise. I don't plan on building this engine that big. No big plans for er. She will be my DD, Tow rig, haul rig, all purpose truck, Not sled puller or mud bogger. Now Ive heard that the gear ratio of 5th in the NV4500 is almost the same as the 6th gear ration in the NV5600, whats the advantage then to going to a 6 speed? DOn't get me wrong I'd rather have a 6 speed lol, but what are the advantages and disadvantages of each??

Hey 98, Did you do a write up or any thing about your manual swap? I'd like to know how it went for you.

It's good to hear from someone who has the G56, Ive heard a lot of good things about it. Ive just got to find one now lol!

But if I got a manual truck ECM, would I have all the functions of the manual rig?

Thanks 98! :thumbup2:Personally I want either a NV5600 or G56. Ive read good things about the newest G56, whereas the older model had some issue. But if the NV5600 will hook up with out needing a new ecm,pcm,ect that might be my route. I wanna do this soon and I don't want to spend a fortune Ive been looking for a good donor truck but I can't find one yet, I might just pick up a trans and then go junk yard picking for the rest.

I never plan on seeing more than 500 hp with this truck. 400-450 is what I'm shooting for. So I don't think hp will be an issue either route I go. Why are you saying go with either G56 or NV5600 over the NV4500?

Hmm, Interesting. But that's really good to know, I found a few NV4500's for a pretty decent price. But I want a remanned one so I know it's all good inside.

Well I plan on getting everything I need before doing the swap. I don't want any codes or bs coming up later. I will definitely change the clutch before it goes in and a South Bend was already on my mind. I dind't know that pre 98 would be a no go so that's good to know now, lol

Okay So I want to swap my auto to manual. I have been looking at the G56 trans in the newer Ram's. But I want to know some input here. What is the best manual to buy, mind you all I plan on doing with this truck is towing and dd basically. Not really gonna be much sled pulls or racing. What are your thoughts, from those who have the manuals?5-Speed or 6-Speed? :think:Also is the swap worth it, I know a few guys on here have swapped. So was it worth the swap? :shrug:I really want to get rid of this POS 47re I'm rocking now. Thanks guys.

I can grab my passenger side lower arm and basically wiggle it back and forth and up and down. I don't have a ton of play but enough to make some interesting sounds as I'm cruising down the road.

Mine is doing the same thing, and my control arm bushings are shot. I really need to replace em :banghead:

Thanks Mike, I will repair mine and see what happens!