TFaoro

Some will disagree with me, but this is the way I do it. Pipe thread = teflon tape flared fittings shouldn't need anything.

This is 100% false when you're talking in general. Maybe for your truck, but on mine I started in the high 60's and was in the mid 70's for cruising boost. I like Nick's idea of leaving the cruising number alone while tuning down the low boost to stop smoke. Our proplem here is we don't have as much control over fuel as you do. With the different maps you can tune for very high hp and very low smoke using the different variables. The set limits for yours are awesome too because you can cut the smoke through a limiter. Without writing a complex program to take everything into account we might have to work with what we've got.

Here you are! It's a principle though ;)

Does the Big Hoss also plug into the MAP sensor and the data link? Welcome to the forum! Great to have another member

Regular UDC tuning bases timing off of load and RPM. I like that, but the only issue is you need a different map for every truck then. Each truck spools turbo(s) differently, and that's where having "custom" comes in handy. Idk what could be done in the custom tuning to allow such a feature. That's where you'd have to throw some possible ideas around. Text me if you think anything is possible. Interesting.... also makes sense with the smarty S03.... throttle super touchy, so you have to have a light foot all the time. Light foot = higher timing for some reason.....

Where do you think that "answer" came from? Engineering my friend, and I'm an engineer. That's why I like to explain exactly how it works, not just it works because everyone does it 100% correct. Guess I should have explained that too! As the velocity increases (going through the snubber) the pressure on the other side is decreased, and thus the "hammering" effect is decreased.

Sounds like @KATOOM is ready to work! Wish I was playing with clutches! Anyway, I got the quote from the insurance.... $1,866 in damage, not including the stolen items. I think that's going to be somewhere near 1K. I've got a little fighting to do with the insurance, but we'll see.

Technically, a larger line would have more friction because it has a larger surface area under the same pressure. We don't use friction here though because the fluid isn't flowing at the walls of the hose, only in the center Inertia does not play a role here because the fluid isn't actually flowing. F=ma or a=F/m.... Acceleration is what we're worried about here. If the fluid accelerates into the gauge, then that's where problems occur. The F remains constant as the pulses from the VP44 hit it, so the only thing we can change here is m. A larger line carries more mass, and thus damps more. Think of it this way, if you have a 55 gallon drum of water and put a pressure sender on it then add 20psi and pulse it 5psi either way through a needle, you won't see the gauge bounce like crazy. If you do the same with a 1/8in line, you will see the gauge bounce much more. The other way to cut the pulses is to have a snubber, which cuts down the size of the orifice allowing fuel in, thus the needle used in the example above.

I agree with @KATOOM. Larger line will actually dampen the pulses more than a tiny line. I like my electronic one though.... No fuel in the cab for me

Just read it all Nick..... I'll read it again tomorrow and see if I can comprehend. Some of it is coenciding with Smarty Pro RT, and some of it seems to not be. I'll reply back tomorrow when I have time to digest it.

That just seems excessive.... I would think you'd start getting pre-ignition with the timing that high. I've been wrong before though.

I'm with @AH64ID here... those numbers seem crazy high, especially after looking at the maps. I'm not even seeing those numbers called for anywhere. On a side note, I don't really see 20* as super high, but the two that I work on are studded. My brother's was at 29* of timing simply to try and keep the spray from happening ATDC. Now with 100%s I have his much lower.

No need for a saturn.... YET Dash is cracked... typical. Bezel is PERFECT, and door panels are PERFECT, but sadly not for sale. If I bring it up here, I might just sleep in it.... with a 9mm.... I think you have my address anyway

Okay, he definitely needs 100% then. If he was at 30% and 8 deg, he was likely sitting at a 2.6* increase. Given the tables above that would put him around 5 or 6* of timing. If that's bumped up to around 10 I bet he'll see a significant improvement.

Very good point. Timing is good to an extent, but too much is a no no. Now the question is what parameters does the ecm actually use to pin-point the timing it wants. My best mileage with these injectors was 8* 100% I have run all the way up to 14* and 100% though it might be a bit high. Nick, I'm going to spew some information from the UDC pro files for a 2002 manual. Inj timing MAX: 13.95* Inj timing max rpm & overspeed: 0* Inj timing max advance at low rpm: 10* Inj timing max advance at high rpm: 20* Inj timing min at any rpm: 3* Inj timing transient: Inj timing steady state: Inj timing boost adjust: Inj timing ect adjust:

You're correct on this thinking, but I'm surprised the timing is actually that high. My brother's CR is sitting at around 8* for the "fuel mileage" area. I wonder where mine is sitting for cruising... maybe you should help Mike see his timing so he can compare it to yours. Note: This is an old map.....

Here's some pics of the poor girl. Pulled the dipstick and it's about 4" over full and milky! Other than that she doesn't look too bad.

^^^^ This

https://mopar1973man.com/ Near the bottom of the page

What's not showing?

Hmm, @Me78569 why are you holding lvl 3 down to 125%? He might be able to tow better with it at 150 and not have to use wiretap as much.

Ah, the life of DDP I guess haha!

It's the old tunes from many years ago. They are powerful, but also very dirty.

I don't know of any, but I think you'll be just fine once you have a gauge. Just glance over at it once in a while

Ooh, good thinking! Forgot ebay had those "compatibility" charts.