TFaoro

I never said to do it the way I do. Moparman and I have completely different setups and we seem to get along pretty well.... We just understand I'm not getting 25mpg and he's not going to have 500hp. I stated you merely gained lag and lost fuel mileage from a larger turbo. Whether you want to believe the FACTS or not you didn't gain anything from the turbo. You're out of fuel. You add more fuel you lose fuel mileage. (The original intent of this thread correct?) If you want performance that's a different story... I can give you a ton of information on fueling / turbo combos and the effects each one is going to have on your setup (Mileage, egt, ect.) Try being a little less defensive... everyone is just giving you advice for better fuel mileage.

You're being serious right now? This is why I don't share my knowledge. Try to give facts but the "butt dyno" is always right

You can make over 500 hp on the 62. Ask me how I know. With your 75hp injectors I would be willing to bet you didn't gain hardly any power going to the 64. It probably feels more powerful because the 64 doesn't have as wide of a power band. The power just hits when it spools unlike the 62 where the power comes on smooth. So in the end... you're under 500 hp because of your injectors and you have a large turbo that is laggy and dropping your fuel mileage... I think back to the 62 is your best option.

With a turbo that size it's expected to have some high EGTs, that's just the way it is. As for the fuel mileage that 71mm turbine wheel is pretty big and will take a decent amount of fuel to spool it. That's what's killing your mileage. You're using more fuel to spool the turbo to make the power to go up the hills. As for the water meth, from what I have read it's not worth it if all you want is fuel mileage. Hopefully I didn't offend.... Just trying to offer some advice.

Stop posting pictures!!! You keep giving me ideas.....

I think I'm going to use regular 3/8 fuel line with two banjos and a T fitting.

Open up the radiator cap. If you're getting compression into the cooling system you'll see it coming out the cap. What do you mean a tiny bit of diesel on the intake? That slight pinging could be the valves needing adjusted???

I'd go a little easy on it to let the head gasket settle into place. At least get a few heat cycles on it, then run it hard.

Personally, I wouldn't worry about it. If you used studs I would say go in and re-torque them for sure.

How's the drone in the cab? Still loud outside?

Sure are! Almost 60 bucks for those little pieces of aluminum... ARE THERE ANY PICTURES ANYONE WOULD LIKE BEFORE I START ASSEMBLING THIS MOTOR?? Let me know and I'll see what I can do. I'm hoping to start this weekend.

Ouch.... How much was it if you don't mind me asking? I was quoted 1350 for what you got.

Thanks Randy. Just another thing to watch out for with the pistons! MoparMan, when this is all over and I'm back at school I will attempt to consolidate this massive thread into an article. Tappets that got lost in shipping will be here Thursday. Oil cooler gaskets showed up today and were free. Machine shop didn't know why they weren't in the kit. Got these in tonight.

Good point!

So why not just buy a whole new turbo if the only things left are modified housings? You can come out on top if you sell the old turbo instead.

hx35 doesn't have the strongest shaft... I wouldn't want to put any more stress on it than stock. I personally don't like the idea of "machined out" larger stock turbos.

Thank you for the kind words! I try to keep this as up to date as possible! Glad to see you made it over here! Just like CUMMINSDIESELPWR said, there are no dumb questions. Read around and get some base knowledge, then make your own thread with questions about anything and everything. ** Made an edit to the piston photos. Now you can see the two types of piston side by side.

A bolt should be just fine for the head. I wouldn't do that with the motor though! I might contact you to see if you could get a few things from that junkyard... Not so easy to find parts anymore!

Nope, the ceramic coating comes on the pistons stock. I honestly don't know what HP motor. Do you have any idea what hp options were available? Thanks! Hmmm I think the only parts I haven't been into are the rear differantial and the transmission. The transmission is coming apart soon though..... To keep track of things - I know where all of the parts go, and if I felt like I wouldn't remember exactly how it went I took pictures. I have twice as many pictures as I've posted here. The bolts all went into ziploc bags and were labeled with a black marker. All I can say is if you're taking yours apart don't let it snowball! It was actually in really good shape when I picked it up. The hood and top of the cab were starting to oxidize, so I had to have the cab painted. The rest was pretty good except for the typical things - small tear in driver's seat, cracked dash, and a few minor leaks. The cab has been painted, and the bed is in paint right now. The engine will be painted gloss black. The bell housing was my test piece. Most of it came from personal experience. I started out rebuilding small 5hp engines, then moved up to a 1952 McCormic W9 (350 cubic inch 4 cylinder), then moved up to an international 1466 turbo diesel tractor. All of that experience plus the farming gave me the ability to tear things apart and rebuild them. Engineering school has helped me understand why things are the way they are, and why certain aftermarkets make things better.

Machined parts. Block mounted and clean Cylinders Clean block. Should be easy to prep for paint. Head. Lots of new stuff in there This shows the O rings. I'm not taking it out of the plastic until it's time to bolt it down. Just in case anyone was wondering how much the head weighs. 151lbs dry

Now for the pistons! As you can see the second compression ring on the marine pistons sits a lot higher. It's close to the first ring, and there is steel reinforcement on all faces of the compression rings. The stock ones don't have that. It appears as if the bowl is slightly larger but I'll have to mic them to see. The ceramic coating on the marine pistons is obvious as well. Stock Marine Bowls Marked for the correct hole.

Thank you. My tappet cover never had any brackets?? It just had bolts with long heads that were threaded. I'll look into it though. I plan to keep my front crankcase breather and run it into a catch can. This motor is built for high HP so it's going to have a bit more blowby. I'd like to have two breathers on it. Here are the parts I've gotten! Piston cooling jets didn't show up, and 2 tappets were lost in shipping so I'm waiting on two more. Springs: 104# and made for a high lift cam. ARP rod bolts Pushrods: 3/8 x 0.095 chromoly Tappets Oil pump Oil Cooler Transmission bearings, seals, and syncros

I would take the bumper off.... You'll have a hoist to put it back on

Some sort of programmer would help it light. As for being smokey, that's just the way DDP's are.

The entire cooling system is right about 5 gallons. I would thing 3-4 should be plenty to pull the head. Make sure you pull a heater core line to ensure the fluid drains from the head.