Wild and Free

On a side note, what is the walking dead? I am assuming a tv show or movie. Don't watch much for tv and do not have cable or satellite.

Just a Dutch / German who thankfully grew up old school processing our own meat yet curing and smoking our own hams and bacon and making sausage of all sorts. I guess in todays world since I have real world survival skills and can feed myself I am a domestic terrorist aka right wing extremist prepper.......I even own a pressure cooker for gods sake and used to can but not so much anymore, my mother in law keeps us loaded up on fresh canned produce.

From talking back and forth sounds like his oil usage of about a quart a month is from a pretty substantial front gear case to block leak. He may ditch the stack for a normal exhaust to eliminate the coating of his rig with soot all the time and maybe dig into the leak a bit more and then just run it until other issues arise and go from there.

Maybe its for packing the goat in for the humans to lick not for the goat to lick.

Just closed a deal on another trailer today, going to get it on Sunday. Sold my 30 foot triaxle flatbed which I just did not have use for a trailer that big anymore. Found a 2009 H & W 24 foot " 20 foot deck with a longer gentle sloping 4 foot dove tail " low profile gooseneck car trailer with 7K axles and a small 4500 lb 12V electric winch on it. Has been stored inside its entire life and looks like new yet. http://www.bismanonline.com/2009_h_w_24_tandem_gooseneck_trailer/?app_track=watchListMemberCenter

Keep the overloads.

I always measure the tread depth on new tires and on both my rigs with 17" rims they have always been 16/32" when new.

There is a whole list of possible causes for this actually. Bad valve guides "I know you did seals already" but if the guides are bad and or the stem of the valve is worn a bit it can still leak oil past things. Bad valve seats stuck, worn or damaged oil rings as I posted earlier which will not affect compression Leak down tests are hard to do and do not really tell one much, one should have access to a nitrogen compressor to be able to do it correctly and even then they are not very reliable tests as the engine is not designed to hold pressure. This is where the compression test is the best option. Head and or gasket issues could even be a block deck issue If you were in the northland it is common as all get out to see this on rigs that sit and idle excessively in cold temps and they slobber just like your pic shows.

If the oil wiper ring is stuck damaged carboned up ect it has nothing to do with compression, there are compression rings and oil rings. I would actually try a different oil for a few thousand miles and see if it cleans up the rings before diving into the engine.

What are you running for engine oil? I have seen oil usage from a cylinder clear up with a different brand of oil a few times, might be worth a try.

Many ways to go but what ever you choose do both sides the same. The only way I would do just one side is if I replaced the whole spring pack with an OEM pack. Cheapest way would be to have the spring shop just replace the broken spring, problem is if one broke the rests may not be far behind. I used to do a ton of spring work when I worked at Inland truck parts and service years back.

Sorry guys, spring time is crazy in the north land trying to get things cleaned up from winter and ready for summer plus work has been hectic as well as a 11 day vacation a month ago. have been in 5 countries and 5 different states in the last 5 weeks of traveling personally and professionally. I was the on call supervisor all weekend and had to work all day both days due to lack of planning from the planning dept. Have looked in on occasion but have not followed anything in details. Just from what I saw posted in the last few posts not seeing or following any of the threads or post previous leads me to say its a piston ring issue. Not a serious issue per say. pop head off inspect cylinders and pop #1 piston out and re-ring piston if bore and cross hatch looks good. Doesn't sound like a big issue to me.

Your just looking at it all wrong.

Just loosen the mount bolt on each side of the engine is all you need to do. Just watch the fan to shroud clearance, there should be plenty of room but never hurts to watch it. Everything has enough flex and clearance for the wee bit one is lifting the engine.

I missed the story of what the final decision was on your tranny, did you go with a swap out or have yours rebuilt?

Not sure if the pickup tube is different from 12 to 24 v I have only done it on 24 v from my short term memory lol but I just feel safer by not going up so high just in case a slip happens, I don't want the engine landing on my arm or hand and smashing it between the engine and cross member, that's the primary reason I do it that way by keeping the mounts in place and just sliding it up in the slots after loosening the bolts .

Yep. The mounts have a flare towards the top, I just loosen the bolts and then jack it up until it hits the flared spot that way you don't go too far.

Hurts nothing, I put the jack right under the damper and raise it, it only raises about 1.5-2 inches. If you look at the mount you will see the slots.

So you are just trying to fix a leaking oil pan gasket? If so you are going to have a hard time getting the old gasket off the surfaces if it is stuck good not a lot of room without lifting the engine a bit which is only loosening of 2 bolts. Then you would be able to clean things up a bit better and have a chance of getting the new gasket slipped through and under the sump pipe without cutting it. Myself personally if I was that far the 2 bolts that hold the sump pipe on are easy and then one would know you have the oil pan clean as you will pretty much always knock dirt and gasket into the pan and then you can't clean it out unless you pull the pan.

If you do what I posted you have the room to clear it easy. Really it would clear without loosening the mount bolts and jacking it but then you do not have enough room to get your hand in to drop the sump pipe, one needs to do it so the the front axle is at full droop to get the needed clearance as well. I have only done them on a hoist so it is a lot easier but if one is young and determined the floor would work too.

I have done several over the years, one just needs to loosen the motor mount bolts enough to get the engine jacked up about 2-3 inches the mount saddles are slotted with a flare at the top I jack em up under the damper itself until the bolts hit the flare area which is all I have ever needed and then one can drop the pan down far enough to get your hand inside to unbolt the oil pump sump tube and drop it in the pan and it then slides out easily. This is on 4X4 models and no the trans doesn't need to be touched.

Just throwing this out there for those who do not know that all new brake pads must be "Burnished" or worn in for ultimate brake performance. Coming from the heavy mining, construction and ag equipment side of the world this is a common "Must Do" procedure on all dry brake pads be it drum or disc but you all most likely do not know that it should be done on ALL vehicles with drum or disc brakes. There are different ways of doing it but all have the same results. rather than typing it out I will just post up a couple different procedures. Enjoy and hopefully you all learned something new and hopefully it will lead to safer braking for everyones sake. If one looks it up there are tons of videos and info on it. I see posts of weak brakes and other brake issues but never see this brought up. Coming from the heavy equipment side of the world failing to do this can lead to decreased braking efficiency up to and over 30-40% and I have seen it many many times on scrapers. http://aftermarket.federalmogul.com/en-US/Technical/Documents/Brake%20Pad%20and%20Shoe%20Break-In%20Procedure.pdf http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/tech-tip-brake-burnishing-procedures-for-new-brake-pads-or-shoes/ At Bendix, we highly recommend that new pads and shoes be broken in properly. After every brake job the technician should first confirm that he has a good brake pedal by gently stroking the pedal to move the wheel cylinders and caliper pistons back out to the normal position. After confirming a good pedal, the follow burnish procedure should be used during the test drive: 30/30/30 Burnish Procedure • Perform 30 stops from 30 miles per hour with a 30-second cooling interval between stops. These stops will be performed at a decelerating rate of 12 feet per second or less. This means that it should be a gentle easy stop. • The 30/30/30 Burnish Procedure beds the pads and shoes into the rotor and drums. It also deposits the necessary friction transfer to the rotors and drums for optimum brake performance. • Following this procedure also assures that your customer will have excellent brake performance from the first time he or she drives the car after brake service has been performed. You should not depend on your customer to break in the brake job. The only way to assure that it is done correctly is to incorporate it into your brake job test drive. Remember, proper burnishing assures a long lasting, high performing, noise free brake job! Courtesy of Bendix by Honeywell. For more information and brake tips, visit www.bendixbrakes.com.

That's respectable as well...........................