edcasey

Thanks for the heads up on this problem Lone. I had never heard of it before.

This will show you how to hook up a manual switch (often called a mystery switch); http://www.tstproducts.com/Torque%20Converter%20Lockup%20Switch.pdf This can be very hard on a transmission especially on the shafts. If you have a stock tranny, you probably shouldn't use it. An aftermarket torque converter and billet shafts would be a big help.

Glad I could help.

Hi and welcome to the forum. If you go up to "User Control Panel" and give us your truck info in the "edit signature" section, it would help us answer any questions you have. I'll assume it's an '02 because of your screen name. All the items you mentioned are controlled by the I.O.D. fuse which is fuse number 12 in the fuse box on the side of the driver's side dash. It's the red (10 amp) fuse with the strange looking black bracket around it. You'll need to pull the fuse out to check it with a meter.

Glad to see you posted that write-up over here Anton!! I was very impressed with it when I saw it on CF. I hope the HP150 turns out to have longevity. It would be a great option for our trucks. Can you tell us what pressure you get at idle and WOT?

I think your right Mike. Everyone I talked to, who had a problem with their ScanGauge, bought them recently.

Well...Scott Brown got sworn in today. Obviously the Obama administration did not get the message because they just raised the debt ceiling to 14.3 trillion. The highest ever. The really sad part is they passed the new limit as part of the so-called "PAYGO" rule bill which requires Congress to pay for all tax cuts or programs it creates so they are budget neutral. So... they passed a law saying they can't acquire new debt and raised the debt ceiling in the same bill. If it wasn't so sad it would be funny.

I believe it was the diaphragm but not completely sure. They were under warranty so I returned them.

I never realized fuel pressure drops with the grid heaters on. It certainly make sense that an electric pump would have less output at a lower voltage. My pressure is always at 15.5 psi at idle whether the grid heaters are on or not. I'm sure there is a drop in pump output pressure but my bypass valve always keeps fuel system pressure at 15.5. I'm really surprised the AirDog's have any drop in pressure. Don't they use a similar spring regulator to control pressure?

I also run a DiPricol 30 psi mechanical gauge. Just like Mopar1973Man, I don't bother with the isolator. After having two of them go bad, I run the fuel straight to the gauge using a needle valve. Works great!!

Hopefully, this will be my last update. ScanGauge sent me a replacement gauge and I got it on Monday. I can't tell if it's new or rebuilt. It came by itself (no cable, instructions...) in a plain card board box. It has worked perfectly so far. My original one didn't show any problems for the first two weeks so hopefully this one wont start showing problems. They sent me a pre-paid label to mail the old one back. When they filled out the information for the label they put their mailing address in Mesa AZ as the mailing and return addresses. There's nothing wrong with that but they never changed the "mailed from" address. So they actually paid to shipping to the same zip code not the 2500 miles it needs to go from MA to AZ. I noticed the mistake but took it to the post office hoping the clerk wouldn't notice. She, of course, noticed immediately and wouldn't accept the box for shipping. The "mailed from" zip code must be the same as the post office you mail the parcel from. So I took it outside the post office and dropped it in one of the blue boxes. Linear Logic will just have to pay COD charges from MA. I wasn't going to pay for return shipping for a second time.

I didn't explain that very well. The Fuel Boss comes with a Hobbs switch. Once the mechanical pump comes up to pressure, the Hobbs switch shuts off the electric pump. No need for a manual switch. If for some reason the Fuel Boss quits working, the Hobbs switch automatically engages the electric pump. You wouldn't even know the change over has been made so an LED is included to mount on your dash. The LED comes on when the electric pump is running. Here's the installation manual. http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/images/PDFs/98.5-02-Fuel-Boss-Install-Manual.pdf

Mechanical fuel pump systems use a bypass valve to regulate pressure. The valve has shims inside of it that can be removed or added to adjust pressure. It only takes a minute to change shims and once you have the fuel pressure where you want it you don't need to touch it again. I have the same bypass valve on my fuel system. It works perfectly. So you adjust the shims to set the idle pressure where you want it. I know a guy who has it shimmed at 10 psi at idle and he says it goes to 16 psi at higher rpm's. My cousin's is about 12 psi at idle and I've seen it hit 21 psi. Yes. Like all engine mounted mechanical pumps, it is a suction pump. Unlike electric pumps that work much better as pusher pumps. The distance from the fuel tank is not an issue.

One of the reasons it hasn't done as well as the high end electric pumps is the warranty isn't nearly as good. Two years on the pump and one year on everything else. It's a real shame because these pumps are known for their longevity and reliability. If they had at least a 5 year warranty, they would sell much better. Another factor was pricing. Not long ago a Fuel Boss was about $700.00 while the AirDog was about $500.00. The Fuel Boss price has dropped to $579.00 and the new AirDog II is $599.00 so the Fuel Boss is now competitively priced. Opie's MITUSA (made in the USA) pump system is priced around $500.00. Another reason mechanical systems haven't been as popular was the AirDog's and Fass systems came with extra filtration. We now know that putting a Baldwin PF7977 in the stock fuel canister gives you equal contaminate filtration and better water separation then the AirDog so filtration isn't an issue. A final issue, that I can think of, is some people are afraid of breaking the belt that drives the pump. These are strong belts who's only job is to drive a low pressure fuel pump unlike the serpentine belt that has to drive the water pump, alternator, power steering pump, and air conditioner compressor. Opie recommends replacing the belt every 75,000 miles but many people will go twice that long. I know one guy who has over 200,000 miles on the original belt. Even if it does break, swapping belts is a 5 minute job. These mechanical systems have become so popular that when we tried to buy one of Opie's systems last year he wasn't taking orders because he was behind on production. I don't know if he is taking new orders yet.

There was an earlier thread on it here:http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/801-mechanical-fuel-pump I helped put one on my cousin's truck. Easy to install and the quality is excellent. I really freaks you out when you step on the accelerator and the fuel pressure goes up instead of down. You do need an electric pump to help start the truck. It only runs for a couple of seconds and than automatically shuts off when the fuel pressure goes up. It also will come on if you ever have a problem with the Fuel Boss. So basically you have two fuel systems which could keep you from getting stranded if one fails. Add a PF7977 to your fuel canister and you have an excellent fuel system. Also, Richard at Glacier is an awesome guy to deal with. Very easy to get a hold of and knows his stuff.

Thanks....I have two 392's installed but I only run one at a time which is plenty with the few mods I have. I wired them separately so I can choose which is running. The second pump is just for redundancy. I ordered Wix filter bases and when I saw they had two inputs and outputs I figured I might as well plumb in my backup pump. Not that swapping out Walbro's isn't a 5 minute job, but with my luck I would have to replace it on the side of a highway in a snow storm.:banghead: Ed

I can't thank you enough for all your hours of research and great write-ups. I followed your lead when re-designing my fuel system last year and added the Cat 2 micron filter. I'm running a Fleetguard FS1212 just because it was easier to get locally but I'm going to use the Baldwin F/S when it gets changed. I'm hoping the better filtration will help add to the VP44 lifespan.

The P0216 means the injection pump can't advance properly. Unfortunately, there are no user serviceable parts in the VP44 so it will have to be replaced to solve the "dead pedal" problem. Eventually, it will die all together and wont restart. I ran with a P0216 for nearly a year, with intermittent dead pedal and hard starting, before the injection pump finally quit completely.

I don't usually post forwards but this one seems relevant to this forum. I think the advice guy might be a member here. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/1.2999604964@web56501.mail.re3.yahoo.com . See all the problems a bad fuel pump can cause... .

. If I got rid of my stock stereo, how would I play my tapes?

. and a hockey game broke out. Go figure. . Our local AHL team got spanked by the Providence Bruins 8 to 2. Oh well...we had fun anyway. My son's favorite part of the whole night...the Zambonis or course.

When I started my truck this morning (-4 degrees), the fuel pressure only went to 4 psi. It started to rise very slowly and after about 5 minutes at idle it reached normal pressure. I thought about buying a stock fuel canister and plumbing it in to warm the fuel (my original one leaked so I removed it), but I don't know if this will do any good if the gelling is occurring in the filters? I've never had a gelling problem before so I think it might be because of where I bought my fuel from. It wasn't my normal gas station.

Yes. They are all 12mm. According to Vulcan, the 12mm tapped banjo bolt "Fits all 5.9 fuel filter canisters and all VP44 and CP3 injection pumps"

When I added the 2 um Cat filter and Baldwin F/S I switched all the fuel line to 3/8 including a 3/8 Dorman fitting from Vulcan using the stock pickup. My maximum fuel pressure stayed the same because I'm using a bypass regulator shimmed to 15.5 psi. Previously my fuel pressure would drop from 15.5 psi under light throttle to just over 12.5 psi WOT. I was surprised that after adding the filters and 3/8 fuel line it never dropped below 13.5 psi WOT. With the restriction of the two filters, I really expected the pressure to drop lower than before at WOT not stay higher. It seems the 3/8 line and Dorman fitting helped quite a bit with fuel flow. I've since removed the stock fuel canister and gained another .5 psi WOT. Now it never goes below 14 WOT.

Ya...that's .24 inches. Pretty restrictive.