PilotHouse2500

I can't imagine hte struggles you have right now. Makes things going on in my life seem very small and petty. Keep plugging forward, the universe still has plans for you moving forward. Know that while I may not "know" you or have ever talked to you (beyound a truck website), I do think about your plight and see your strength in this.

fer sure!

the results, 1.5" at the bend now and 1.25" at the 4" outlet....more pics on the build thread I have if curious. thanks all!

After getting my 90° down tube...figured I needed a tich more room (advice from others I was FORCED to listen to, LOL). The results:

OK great, I'll finish fit up and weld this week. Hammer formed on a wood bock, frame rail on my 51 COE (unstarted future 6bt conversion project), and two pieces of steel I have to help make curves and rounded areas.

Yah cut out a section and planning a fill panel to weld in. Still plan on a wrap and heat shield. Top pic is the fabbed fill panel, second I'd cut out and third is that panel set in the cutout.

Where I'm currently sitting...thoughts? 1" of depth added.

good idea! I'm hitting a yard or two this weekend so I'll see what I can find!

Thanks for the input! The lower boss is also about 3/4" away from the firewall. I'll start to poke at what I can do, kinda figured I'd need to do SOMETHING more....biggest problem I have is behind the firewall is my Vintage Aire (AC) box and I'm pretty tight for space, but might be able to squeek out an inch possibly with some non-"standard" placement of stuff to get it all in there (put stuff at angles). EDIT: the lower boss is about 1/2"...but I think I have enought meat there to trim is down a bit and still have plenty of thread space for a heat sheild. Good eye BTW!

How much movement can I expect (under certain operating conditins)? Torsionally or front to back? What gap is really needed? There are bosses on the 90 that I can stick a heat shield on, how much gap between all that? The orginal 90 had a warp on it, about 1/4" thick, woudl I need more? Now is the time for me to nail this down as I'm going into paint later this summer.

In my project I finally found a 90° down part that fits. The gap between the 90 and the firewall is about 0.700". If I wrap the 90 will that be enough of a heat reduction so I don't discolor the paint (or damage it) for that gap? Or do I need to create a bigger space behind that?

I'm potentially short on space for my project build between turbo exhaust and firewall. I ran across these types of parts for 4bt engines, I have not confirmed anything for 6bt....has anyone used or seen these in the wild? https://www.dieseltuff.com/product/4-cobra-head-hotpipe/

Yah, I really don't know if I need to worry about it. I'm not planning on pulling much load really and it's pretty flat around here. Was just wondering your inputs on this before paint. Appreciate the feedbacks!

While I was out in CA for a truck show at my buddies ranch, I got into a conversation with a gent on his 12 valve where it was starting to get hot over time. Another guy suggested some add on kit that pushed more coolant to the rear 2 cylinders. Question for the group her is this: is this worth the add on? If it IS, I want to make sure to account for this in my build NOW while I can move things around vs. after teh build is done and ends up being a mjor issue. ANd if it IS worth it...who might sell this kit? I think this might be for RV aplications? maybe this? https://puredieselpower.com/Cummins/Dodge-Ram-5.9L-6.7L-Cummins-Engine-Parts/94-02-cummins-cooling-kit-improves-coolant-flow-to-cylinder-6.html?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqKXny6vJhQMVxDjUAR2TAgDmEAQYAiABEgI2rfD_BwE

Seems I forgot to upload a bunch of stuff! Wood working season is upon me so even slower than normal for a while. Paint WILL happen this summer/early fall, so I HAVE to be ready! Might have some long days ahead of me to get everything done between wood and truck. Meanwhile, inner fenders done, hood ornament mounted, shift boot mount in, fuse block mounted and radio mounted.

Has anyone done this conversion? If so what did you do/watch put points/pluses/minuses? I tried to search this but either my search terms were bad or I'm blind....

Yah that helps a ton to see where the boots "land" on the sticks. Appreciate!

Just checking to see of you had a chance? I put the boot on and did my best guess, I CAn cut it off to remove if I'm way off. I do think an issue is how far apart the tunnel height is off the top of the trans ( I might have to space it up). Still hoping to can pull thru for me.

well I poked at it the hard way....I put the parts on and tried to find hte best location possible. Seems that I needed to pull the mounting ring back a bit (off center FTB now) to make things "work". I'm also guessing I might have the tunnel lower to the tans than woudl be stock on a gen 2. So back up question, can someone share a pic of a gen 2 shift/TC boot installed?

calling passenger side done, moving to drivers side

Still thicker hair than me!

A few steps closer....taking forever it seems: 6 hours days working on this thing and still not done! Hopefully, today I can call passenger side "done".

Right, and I plan on doing that...but I need to know where to weld a "ring" (thicker version of black thing in pic) to screw the boot and cover plate to.

That's ok, kinda figured right now it'd not be you. I don't know if it REALLY matters TOO much for overall location. I was planning on centering on the gear shift and let the TC fall where it may. I just don't know if that is a problem or not (cause I won't know untill stuff is welded up and painted), just hoping someone has a number/idea before I start making parts become one via MIG.

Anyone able to get me some location dimensions off the nv4500 so I can place the boot right?