Hood Latch

Lone Watie: On the question of Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15W40, In 1958 my oldest brother branched out on his own from my father's garage and started his own "heavy truck and trailer" garage. For whatever reason (I can't remember why) he decided on Mobil Delvac 15W40 as the motor oil to stock in his shop. I worked for him for a little more than 11 years before branching out on my own. My youngest brother operates that same shop today. I would venture to say, that thousands of diesel trucks have had service (including repetetive oil changes) in that shop in the last 52 years, and every one of them got Mobil Delvac 15W40. We even used it (and they still do) in their gas shop pickup's. I personally have owned a fair number of diesel cars, pickup's, and small dumpers myself and have never used any oil other than Delvac 15W40. Now this may sound like a long winded answer to your question, but if you are looking for a petroleum based oil to get the job done for your diesel, I can tell you that for 50 plus years Delvac has worked very well for us.

Well now, this Fuel Boss sound's even better the more I learn about it !! Ol' Hood Latch has always liked to learn things of a worthwhile nature. Thank's very much for the head's up on the Glacier Diesel Power site, checking it out now.

Yep , understood. Same principle as an engine crankcase oil pump. Check valve, tolorences, and spring tension determines p.s.i., with some increased variable @ a higher r.p.m. I had never seen the Fuel Boss before, and was not familiar with the product. Thank you for the info. It sounds as if it is a well made pump. And, I can see why someone could view this pump as the heart of a "BELT AND SUSPENDERS" type approach to a solid fuel delivery system. You start your truck with maybe a FASS DDRP in the stock o.e.m. location, and then when it's running, switch it off. If the mechanical pump failed for some reason, the electric pump is only a toggle switch away. Kind of on the expensive side (having both pumps) I guess. But, I can also see the potential advantages of a system like this.

Just curious: What kind of p.s.i. do you have @ idle, and @ say 1900 rpm's ? Are you pre-filtering this pump? As some of you know, I am experimenting with a FASS DDRP in the o.e.m. location on the block. If it does not work out for me and I decide to go another way, I am just about certain that I will install a FASS "pusher pump" down on the frame by the tank. Don't think I would want to keep pulling the fuel from an even further distance than I am now. Was the FUEL BOSS specifically designed to "pull instead of push" fuel?

Yeah, I liked that about them also. I went to their website www.danininc.com and clicked on the Optix link to take a look at them. It shows how each gauge look's during the day, and then how it is backlit for night. I got their chrome bezel with white face/aqua light. Very nice.

I'm relatively new here also. I decided on the DiPricol Mechanical 30 p.s.i. gauge. (like gassernomore said, you want to stay with a 30 p.s.i. gauge) I am not sorry that I bought the DiPricol, it looks to be well made and seems to be working flawlessly so far. Hood Latch

Lone Watie: For what it may be worth to you, I have done a fair bit of experimenting (on my own vehicles) over the years with different tire sizes on the stock rims that came with my vehicles. The vehicles ranged from V.W. bug's to 3/4 ton rated pickup trks. My experimenting focused on only two variables, (1) wether or not I had any gains in fuel economy, (in theory; a taller tire would give you a gain) and (2) wether or not I had any better pulling power, (in theory; a smaller tire would give you a gain). I found that there were so many other variables that presented themselves in these exercises, that I have never been able to find any real definitve answer about the subject, other than this: Generally speaking, any of the gains I did see, was when I had changed ONLY ONE SIZE up or down, depending on the variable (better fuel economy, or better pulling power) I was trying to change. Don't know if this help's you in any ( I know it's a bit off the subject of your question) but I thought I would pass it along for whatever it's worth.

Thank you, Sir.

Thank's MPM. I appreciate your patience, and most certainly your hard gained knowledge that you obviously are most willing to share with others. As for my finding something that you may have missed, well I kinda doubt that. Yeah, there is always some possibility I guess (however small it may be) that I might come up with some new value as to the question at hand here, but we will see. In the mean time, it is providing an interesting excersise for me, and I am enjoying the process. And I am certainly more than happy to share the results of my findings, however inconsequential they may turn out to be.

Now for the next step in this experiment; I am going to order a big line kit to run between the stock filter housing and the vp44. When I get it installed (probably in the next 7 to 10 days) I will add the results to list of readings above. I need to think about if I want a 3/8" kit or 1/2" kit. Any thoughts about that? (while keeping in mind that I am running a FASS DDRP in the stock location on the side of the block and stock lines from tank to DDRP) Also, I'm fairly sure that I am going to add an in-line filter (at some time) between tank and DDRP. Now I know that some of you folks might be scratchin' your heads right now saying, why did'nt this old knuckle head listen and just do one of the pusher pumps with big line kits to begin with? Well, I really am not too hard headed, sometimes I just like to experiment with (new to me) projects and document the evidence along the way as it presents it self. There is (at least to my way of thinking) a certain method to my madness. And as I have said before; If this DDRP experiment does not work out for me, than I have another good use for it. Now having said all that, I want to say this; I very much appreciate any and all comments, suggestions, and or experiences of others that they want to share and have already shared here on this thread. The responses have been more than I (as a new guy) thought they would be, and I have learned much. Thanks again, Hood Latch

Flman, Glad to hear it all worked out to your satisfaction. Smart idea, about spotting all the pertinent temps with your sensor!! I need to get one myself, just keep forgetting about it. Just out of curiosity; How did you find Blue Chip handled the warranty issue for you? Any complaints from you about the process?

Thank's for the info, I appreciate it !!

On this subject; has anyone tried a manually operated "high idle" cable, and for that matter, are there any out there that were purpose designed for the 2nd.gen application? Maybe I'm not looking in the right place, but I have not found any. A few generic twist lock cables are available, but you have to fabricate your own brackets and such to attach to your pump.

Yes Sir: I think you will find that 6mm. converts to .243" actually smaller than 1/4". Whew!!! that is on the small side it seems.

Thank's Guesswho 512. That's what I thought too, but I read somewhere that someone made mention of that particular line as having only a 1/4" I.D. I've never had one off to look at, but it would surprise me if it were only 1/4" I.D. Anyone else had a good look at one?

This is sort of related to this thread; Can someone tell me what the inside diameter is of the stock metal fuel line that runs from the stock filter housing to the inlet of the vp44 ? Thanks .Hood Latch

Well I'm running the FASS DDRP @ the stock location on the side of the block with nothing between it and the tank. From the DDRP the fuel go's to the stock filter/heater/seperator that has a Baldwin 7977 inside of it. So, after the DDRP, I figure I should be o.k. It's what could be in the fuel before it get's to the DDRP that I am sort of concerned about. I do have the small in-line Fleetgaurd filter that I think I am going to install in the line somewhere before the DDRP. If it should cause to much of a drop in p.s.i., well then, I would have to re-think things at that point.

Flman, I am pondering the same question myself; Should I install an in-line filter between tank and new FASS DDRP? Right now, The FASS seems to be meeting my particular needs for my driving habits. But, if I create a restriction that the FASS would have to pull fuel thru on it's way to the filter housing, well, I don't know if it would keep up with what I want to see. Gonna have to think on it.

I agree. Honest and accurately compiled data (on the items you mentioned) over a reasonable amount of time should give us the definitive answer to this subject. While we are all entitled to our opinion, we should not ignore the facts once they present themselves.

Mopar Man, Your question: "THE POINT HERE IS AT WHAT PRESSURE DO YOU GET THE MOST LIFE FROM A VP44?" and the ultimate correct answer should ( I believe ) be the GOLD STANDARD for this subject. In my opinion, your question could not be worded any better than that.

This is true; whenever you use jumpers, you have to twist thru the shellac and then when finished, touch it up. But, it has always worked well and I don't mind the touch up. However, I see your point. If you are jump starting a lot of other folk's vehicles, this may not work for you.

Hey folks, for what it's worth to you, I have been using plain old wood workers Orange Shellac on battery terminals (after cleaned with warm baking soda and water, then blow dried) for a lot of years. Learned it from an old diesel mechanic when I was a kid. It has always worked well for me, and will take a fair number of engine bay washings before having to be touched up. I brush it on real good and all down and around, and under the terminal, let it dry, and then look for any spots I may have missed. I use those little disposable acid brushes to put it on with. You can't miss any spots, or corrosion will show up. My 2-cents ...............Hood Latch

Question: The guy up in the northeast that sells the rebuilt vp44's and is saying that you have adequate needs with 5p.s.i., how long is the warranty on his rebuilt pumps? I guess I am wondering why he would say 5 p.s.i. is sufficent, if he is going to warranty his vp44's, after telling us that 5 p.s.i. is enough. Or, am I missing something here ? Seriously, not trying to be sarcastic.

Yep, that is my understanding also as to why vehicles can develop leaks when switching to synthetic from petroleum based oil

My truck has a 151,000 miles on it. I have been using synthetic oil for more than a decade in a number of other vehicles. I have noticed that on some of the vehicles that had more than say 50,000 miles on them, that a few of them developed oil leaks after switching to synthetic. When I switched back to petroleum based oil, all but one of them stopped leaking. My question is: Has anyone developed oil leaks once they switched to synthetic oil on a 2nd. gen. Dodge/Cummins that had say 50,000 or so more miles on it ? Thanks...Hood Latch