eddielee

rlane, I Know that I need to do something about the fuel pump as soon as I possibly can, until then I do not drive it too hard. I read a lot about the fuel pump issue as well, I will be ordering an aftermarket fuel pump as soon as I have the ability. Mopar man, I would not buy a washable oil filter because the amount of oil going down the drain would be rediculous. I will say that the posts and further research I have done have definitely proven to me that a reusable air filter is not necessarily the best option. The duration of the filter life with a BHAF is excellent, and the filtration is definitely better. As I said before much of the consideration about choosing a washable filter was due to having to order a filter either way and the ability ro get it at a comparable price, or cheaper. I am a very technical thinker, which is why I asked this question to see what others had to say about the pros and cons of reusable dryflow air filters. After I do the fuel pump I get to do front springs and shocks all the way around. Again, thank you everyone for your responses, I hope this helps others in the future as well.

So the Donaldson B085011 says 99.9% efficiency on the spec sheet with flows of 280 to 470 CFM. As listed on their website: https://dynamic.donaldson.com/WebStore/search/item_detail.html?item=14043 This makes it appear like paper filters actually have higher efficiencies, however, this says little about other manufacturers filters for sure.

At the moment it is the case that $80 is a lot to come up with, having recently moved. I can get a dryflow cheaper. if I only clean it once, I can go 200,000 miles due to the fact that it is the same size, "maybe." I can get a paper filter for a couple bucks less over the internet. But if I must order a filter my next thought was why not get a reusable filter. Which is what lead me to start this thread. The answers I have read give me the thought that even getting an AEM filter and treating it the same as a disposable filter, I can get the same size or larger filter and get the same miles. Now the question is does the Afe actually have better flow? Maybe I should try it, Still not sure... I was just trying to find a filter efficiency for the paper filters and compare it to the 92.5% efficiency stated by Afe. Then maybe that is the flow increase, The % efficiency directly translates to how easily the air flows through the filter as well. So This is the point of the BHAF, to increase the surface space of the filter to allow easier air flow into the engine at the greater filter resistance per inch. Ultimately, at some point you reach the point of peak performance where the larger filter having a greater efficiency, more restrctive air flow, still gives as much or more air as a smaller performance filter with a lower efficiency allowing more flow through the smaller surface area. The greater the efficiency, the greater the resistance, the better the clean...

rlane, I would agree with you, however, it seems as if I must order either filter that I want to use as a BHAF here in Asheville, NC. Unless I want to spend $80 on one. That is part of the reason that I was thinking of going dryflow washable. At 100,000 miles per filter though it seems as if it might be the best choice. It does make sense that the AEM are no good anymore due to the fact that K&N bought them out. They are made in USA and that is a selling point, however, if they are no good then they are not worth it.

Thank you both for your quick responses. I found them insightful and they definitely answered my questions. With 100,000 mi per filter paper is not such a bad choice. If by chance someone wants to run a dry reusable filter the AFE would be a better quality filter. Simple and straight to the point. I would definitely prefer not to toast an engine because I want to save a few dollars. I will look into the cost of an AFE filter before making my decision. I don't want to be a guinea pig or do anything dumb. Again thank you for your assistance and the knowledge you have shared.

So I have read a lot about air filters, including the BHAF info. One thing I find stands out is the paper element aspect in the BHAF article. I am curious if this is just an anti oil filter thing or if someone has experience with the AEM filters not being good either. I have heard a lot of good things about the dry flow washable filters. I am up between spending $79 once for a dry flow reusable filter and $45 for a paper filter. The AEM filter I would choose is an oval 9" long x 10.5" wide x 8" across with a 4" ID inlet. These dimensions yeild the greatest surface are of all the AEM filters with the correct inlet. Compairable surface area to the 8.5"W x 12.4"L paper alternative BHAF. I like the thought of saving money on filters over time. Heck wash it once and reuse it and it has more than paid for itself. Especially when the Napa 6637 runs $64 dollars here. The issue with the common oil filters and these trucks is the turbo and oil dirt buildup. This eventually gets into the turbo and wears it down like sand paper. So, why should I, or why shouldn't I get an AEM and go with paper filter elements? Thank you for a conscious discussion.

My truck after the new thermostat is maintaining 190ish, even at an idle it only drops a few degrees below.

I had to order mine from Napa online or order at the store. 2010-2012 6.7L is make specific. Must specify temp 200F

I just threw one in last night. I decided I needed a new thermostat because it was taking forever to get the engine warm. With freezing temps here in Asheville, NC, Heat is essential. I drove it to the store to grab a few things afterwards and the temp jumped to 160 ish by the time I got there. This morning about the samething happened, granted it was much warmer. I have driven those temps for a month or so now and it has not warmed up that fast. The first thing that I noticed when I went to replace it was there are no holes in my 200 F thermostat like there were in the 180 F when I pulled it out. I was right that there was water flowing through my radiator while it was warming up and that was why it was taking so long to warm up. I just thought that it was staying open, but no, there are holes in the damn thing making it happen. I have driven it four times since I replaced it and my truck warmed up in under 25min each time to about 194 F on the stock temp gage. Definitely recommend it for winter if not year round so far! Edited for grammer ;~P

I had a hesitation and changing the fuel filter worked.

Replace your Crank sensor for the RPM issues. our year models use the crank sensor and newer ones use the cam sensor. Remember to turn the sensor back and forth, breaking the seal, before removing so it doesn't stick and break. Geno's sells OEM sensors

Honestly I recommend using seafoam in the intake to clean the Turbo up good. The soot in the turbos on the VW's are funny little things. They need to be driven correctly. Accelerating and working the turbo to an RPM of 3500 almost redlining sometimes in order to knock off soot within the veins and their movement path. I used PB blaster while I was dealing with cleaning the exhaust manifold/ turbo and it worked wonders. If you seafoam it correctly then it will flush the soot out of the turbo and the manifold. Seafoam the thing with like a half can and kill the engine with the seafoam, let it sit for 20-30 minutes. Start the car let it run a few minutes until it clears up, revving it a few times after and then repeat! After the first can is gone on 2 or 3 doses drive the car like you stole it up a mountain. Ok don't get too dangerous, but, maintain high RPM's once it is warm, working the engine up a grade. Do not use over drive or 5th gear maintain D or 4th. This will force everything through and worke the veins to clear their path. It will also burn and clear the remaining particles. After performing this proceedure you want to maintain the Turbo by driving it that way at minimum every couple weeks. In my opinion weekly for a daily driver is prefered. This way you do not have to drive it as hard, nor as long, to maintain the turbos action. That being said I believe the operating valve on the turbo is electricly actuated and the electrical fix likely fixed the initial issue. The continuing funky operation for a couple trips or so leads me to believe the turbo has not been operating properly for a while now. This funky operation has caused excessive buildup in the turbo, and a necessity to clean it.

I just got the sensor that I ordered from Genos and I will put it in soon. As I suspected it is a genuine Cummins part for far less money! Next to put it on!

I took the axle out at Napa and it seems to have been the flange seal as the bolts were only hand tight!!! I replaced the flange seal and torqued the flange bolts too. Will check the vent to make sure it is open. Thank you all!!

So all seemed to go fine. I replaced the seals and bearings just after posting and feeling confident. The other day I noticed that the passenger side rear wheel had what appeared to be brake fluid again but it must be gear oil as the brake fluid has not gone down. Damn, back to it again, grrr. The only things I can think of would be a burr, I didn't grease that side, or I hit my brakes too hard earlier that day... Brakes shouldn't effect that. I did my best not to put excessive pressure on the seal.

That is unfortunate, I am sorry you had such an experience.

Are you speaking of the bolts that connect the upper control arm to the frame? These are tthe only bolts I can think of that could move in this manner.

The EGR can be disconnected and should not effect the operation of the vehicle. I would look at the turbo, they have veins that change angle to depict how much boost you get, rather than a wastegate. when the turbo is not actuating correctly this will happen. Default position is open to allow no boost. I also reccommend checking the timing position as well. TDI's run an imposing engine and this could truly mess stuff up!! I had a 2000 for a couple of years and learned a lot about mine during the time I had it. EGR never messes with it, however, this new O2 sensor crap coould possibly change that. I would look over at the TDI club and see what they say. You may have to be a member to do a good search but It is a good place to go. ED

Here you go, http://tdiclub.com/ ,the TDI equivelant to Mopar1973man. THey have a wealth of knowlege about any situation you may find yourself in. ED

Thank you rlane547 When you say OEM you mean buy a bosch, or just an OE from NAPA?

I have the same code poping up and a couple times the tach has dropped to 0 for a few seconds or so. I looked at the diagnostics and am seeing that the issue is generally a fault in the wires to the ecm, the sensor, or the ECM. Is this correct? If all tests turn out fine I should replace the sensor correct?

I found this on another site, about a third gen, for anyone thinking of going XRF: After having balljoints replaced with XRF at local dealer -After a week or so, I noticed that one of the rubber boots was torn on lower BJ I returned to the dealer. He said "no prob, we'll replace the boot" -an OEM boot won't fit on the XRF. Oh duh! I suggested just replace the XRF back to stock OEM, but to my surprise and theirs, the stock will not fit properly now because the splines on the external part of the XRF have made the housing where the BJ mounts too large. Lesson learned! Once you replace OEM BJ's with XRF, you can't go back!... ...I talked with mark at XRF chassis and was told the lower b/j were over sized 3 to 5 thousands so that any out of roundness (or wear) is corrected when the b/j are installed. He said you might have to cool b/j down for easier installation. Would have been nice to know a head of time. sotex

Thank you MN Tom. I am wondering if you have a parts list for this or something. So many parts and not enough info on them..

Yes, however, reality is that the alignment is only good without caster camber adjustment when the front suspension is in prime condition. I can not believe that they are actually fixed without cammed adjustments in the a-frames. I have to do ball joints and steering gear, then shocks and springs. either way I would just prefer a good adjustable camber. somewhere will have to come tie rods... If I do have to go oe then likely xrf joints.

I have been looking for adjustable ball joints for my 2WD 2500. As the suspension sags the alignment is thrown off causing excessive wear on the ball joints and the tie rods. All I have found are MOOG and we all know the issues with these. Does anyone know of a good adjustable ball joint for the 2WD trucks?? Seems like they are all made for the 4WD. I appreciate your help!!