rseabur

Yeah don't sound good for me. Think I have multiple problems. Tranny slipping, carrier bearing feels sloppy and maybe a bad ujoint somewhere. Time to work some OT

Yep complete stock tranny. Looking to find a trustworthy builder here in central ohio now to see my options or to check it out.

Took the fifth wheel out for the long holiday weekend. Was a 4hr round trip with the campground having some pretty steep hills throughout it. After getting there i coundnt get a run at the first one i didnt think i was going to make it up and This morning my tranny felt like it was slipping pretty bad. Could that have anything to do with the vibration I am having?

Yes vibration starts around 50-55 and up. I have new shocks in front but did not do the rears because I have air bags and didn't think they would help or hurt

Will give that a try

No shake at all in the steering wheel. Floor and seat only

Starting to get a bad vibration in the seat and the floor that is really noticeable around 55-60 mph. Just had all 6 tires road force balanced yesterday and that didn't help. Which my buddy told me it wouldn't help. Hes saying ujoints. I tried moving the shaft around to see if I could see any slop anywhere but couldn't. Just did a complete brake job also. Could the drums be out of balance? How hard is it to change ujoints? Do you need special tools and presses? Carrier bearing bad? Shaft out of balance? Don't know where to start. Don't really want to start throwing money at it. Any way to tying to help pin point it

Well didn't get my money back. The guy is actually my brother inlaws brother if that makes since. That fluid actually has a lot of.new mixed in with it due to him not bleeding it also. Lets just say I got screwed bad by him. After he got done wit it I had to buy a new set.of drums also. I don't have the know how to take everything apart so I just did the flush into the mason jar like I saw on here since I am a one man show. Hope it will be fine.

They got pretty hot. Seem to not have the stopping power that they did the day I put them on but didn't drive it a whole lot. Maybe they are normal and I'm not used to it since I put new drums on the rear at same time since the same guy screwed them up also while trying to turn them.

Well a paid a guy that I trusted pretty well to do a brake job and fluid flush on the dually. After looking at it and having a severe vibration I called him out on it. Boy was he pissed. Trying to fight me and everything. What do you guys think. Put maybe 100 miles on it before I had a chance to flush it myself today. The vibration is a another long story. The pic is what I sucked out of the reservoir One other thing, I think I may have glazed my front pads cause I took down the track the day after they were put on. Are they toast or will they come back after some wear?

I am looking at either a 2500 or 3500 srw I will not be going with another dually. That's why I'm asking about the short bed. Its hard to find 2500 crew cab long beds and even harder for the 3500. The short beds have the 6.5' bed not the 5.5 if that makes a difference.

So no need to unhook the Rv and weigh it completely separate? I will get the actual weight of Rv with truck off scale and Rv still hitched?

I don't have pic but it is a 2014 wildcat. Roughly 34' and has a max weight of 12000 stamped on hitch. I don't have an actual scale weight either. Dry weight is supposed to be a little less than 10000. It does have those kind of rounded corners on the upper part. I heard they started making them that way just for short beds. I was thinking the longer wheel base might also give better control. The king pin sticks out a little farther then the camper itself. Any benifit to 1 ton over 3/4?

Thinking of upgrading my truck to something newer. Can I tow my fifth wheel with a short bed meaning the 6 1/2ft bed? Not really wanting to buy a new sliding hitch. It is hard to find a 1 ton long bed srw around here. Would I benifit going to the 1ton over a 3/4 ton? I have heard there is only like 500lbs difference in capacity. Thanks

If I took the juice with attitude off and put the edge ez on would i get the same results as running the juice on 2x3 while towing?

If I get something it will be 2010 or newer

I paid around $2 for a 6" turnbuckle with 2 hooks on it at lowes. Would let me boost as much as I wanted before I did the hx35 swap.

Is a 3/4 ton heavy enough to pull a 12000 lb fifth wheel? Do I need a long bed? Camper is around 10000 dry and Max weight is. 12000 so I am basing off of the Max weight. I is hardto find a 1 ton long bed around here unless it is a dually. That is my other question is a dually really necessary with a fifth wheel? I am trying to get away for a dually. I have been trying to find a 1 ton but it is slim pickings. 3/4 ton ccsb are everywhere. Don't want to mess with the slider hitches either. What are you thoughts

At those numbers if fuel prices stayed the same and if I averaged 10000 miles a year which is probably high for me, I would recover the addition cost of the diesel in about 8 years. But don't think the new diesel's are getting that high of mpgs. Something for me to think about.

I love my 24v but I have a feeling the thing is going to start eating into my pocket more than I would like. If I buy new I will have it for a looong time. At 40-70k not sure who can trade these things in every couple of years. I bought my first house for less than I can buy some of these trucks. DEF fluid is a good point but not a deal breaker. We are getting close to 5000 mile out of a tank if we cut idle time to a minimum which is hard when we run inverters and compressors. I might go to a dealer and drive a few gassers and see how they feel but then I can buy alot of parts and fix rust when it starts on the 24v for 40k.

Do they drink the gas like my 04 2500 work truck with the 5.7 hemi? I heard the gm 6.0 gets horrible mpgs also.

I wouldn't dare ask the question on cummins forum or any others. It would have been a slaughter. I have a 11000 fifth wheel that I pull 1 to 2 times a month pretty much to local campgrounds. Farthest we typically go is within 2hrs. That's kind of why I brought up gassers. I have a company truck so it is not a daily driver. I think I average 5-8k miles a year. If I buy new this thing will have to last me the rest of my life with the prices of these things.

Who has the best all-around 1 ton diesel truck? Looking to upgrade my 24v to something new. Gmc/Chevy, dodge or ford and why. For the price difference would it be worth just getting a gasser?

Would not having the pump tap hurt anything if I went to the ez or smarty other than not being able to have big Hp? Would I lose some performance from the injectors? Not really sure what the tap does other than work the pump harder.

I have been thinking of taking my juice with attitude cts off my truck and selling. Thought about going with an edge ez or smarty and a set of pillar guages. I know I will lose the pump tap but what other things would I be losing out on? Wouldnt bigger injectors make up for not having the pump tap? I am not after huge Hp. Just towing power and mpgs. I am happy tow on 2x3 and usually drove around on 3x5.