rseabur

Well my dad and I were looking at this supposed antifreeze or what I was leaning toward ac oil leak yesterday. He did not think it was either. Thought it was to thick. When I parked the front tire was in a position to where we could see a NAIL in it that was leaking....My thoughts...Original owner got a flat knowing he was selling truck. He either put that tire slime or fix a flat in tire to save from repairing the tire which it did. 1yr later the temporary repair has started to fail sparying the green whatever it is out of the tire. Looks like you NAILED it Dieselfuture. Thanks to all for all the help. Will find out for sure if that nail has been the problem when I get to the tire shop next Saturday.

Well I think it is my ac evaporated. Still have not been able to pin point the leak source but that is the only thing left. Anybody know of a sure way to tell if that is the problem before taking the dash apart? I watch mopars video and it doesn't look fun but not paying the stealer 1000+ to do it.

Tone stays the same at the tip. So it just a fluke thatfor the first 10 to 15 miles it is extremely loud in the cab until I boost the crap.out of the turbo. After that it is like driving a gasser in the cab but tone at tip still has that nice tone.

I don't need to clean the engine compartment or the block. It is spotless. I mean I would eatoff it. Everybody seams to get off topic ordoesnt read the entire post. No leaks in engine compartment. No smell in cab. Only sign is in passenger side wheel well liner where the liner meets thefender. It is notalot of leakage. I haven't topped it off since I have noticed it.

It only about a month old so don't think mount it riper out or it is rotted out. Might just he nature of beast. Cant check it out until I get. It back. Lower ball joint had to be machined out. I knew I was a gm guy for a reason.upper came out fine but lower rivets had to be machined out or buy a.whole.new lower control arm. Will check out monifold for cracks and check all connections when I can get it back from the shop

Still trying to track down this leak. Seems to be getting a little worse with the added Hp. Would a pressure test show me anything? Thinking about doing a flush and maybe itwill help or break some gunk loose and show the leak better.

That's what I heard and why I bought it. Just thought it was very weird as to why it got quiet after it boosted the turbo hard. Took the exhaust to the tone that I think it should have. I will check all my clamps and make sure they have not loosened up

Anybody know why I don't get notifications anymore when someone responds to my posts? I used to get them before the site got updated. I have checked my settings and appears to me that I should be getting them. What am I doing wrong

I have the 4" mbrp w/ muff and it is extremely loud in the cab until it seems to warm up. The other day I was crusing empty and not towing on freeway and couldn't hardly stand the noise. I floored it and boosted to about 35 psi for a few seconds and all cab noise was gone. Anybody have similar situation going on or know why this might happen. I know the noise level when towing my 5ver while exhaust is cold will be unbearable.

Where did you get your 60s? I think that's the route I will go. Gives me a little more than the rvs but shouldnt be more than the hx. Can handle.

I think I am leaning toward the 60 or 75hp. I. Cant see paying a little more for the smaller rv unless I am missing something. But on the other hand I hope the 60 or 75 are not to big and I have to drive by the egts or it smokes while towing. I wouldn't mind a little while playing around but want it clean while towing.

I don't have a Hp goal. Just want a good tow rig. I pull a 14000lb 5th wheel 75% of the time. I have an hy turbo with a lowes turnbuckle on now but have an hx to swap in when I have some spare time. I know the Rv inj aregood and seem to be proven but I can get the 50 60 or 75hp inj cheaper than the rv. My thinking is why not get the bigger ones. I don't want to have to worry about excessive heat. Just looking for a good clean burning injector to give me that little extra that the truck seemed to be missing. Maybe the jwa gave me that but I haven't pulled with it yet. I guess I got the fever. Just don't want to over do it. I think the injectors will be the icing on the cake for me if I can figure out what would be the best size for me

I was originally looking for some RV injectors when I came across DAPs website. Their prices are good. Was wondering what the difference was between the DAP brand and the aftermarket ones are other than 1 requires a core and the other does not. Should I keep my stock injectors? I am probably going to go with 75hp injectors Any info or recommendations would be great. Thanks

Thanks for the info. Was just curious about the kit I have heard about. Supposed to bolt right into place. Has tierods and everything.only think think may have to buy would be Pittman arm I think. is thesteerig brace worth the money? Pretty simple install. I know I needto Dow good check on all parts.

I have a 2wd with ind susp.I don't know much about the components. What can I replace?

I have heard that 2nd gen steering components. Can be upgraded with 3rd or 4th gen parts. Anybody have any info to back that up. Heard you can get the whole assembly. From the dealer for about $300.

I thought I saw a write up on here somewhere about adusting the bands but couldn't find anything. I have found several other websites with info. Anybody have a link?

That was my thinking. I plan on doing the adjustment. Just have to remember in/lb not ft/lb

Well finally got the oil and diff fluid changed today. I used valvoline premium blue 15-40 and valvoline 74-140 synthetic gear oil. Oil wasn't bad but diff seemed pretty nasty. Just got my parts for the tranny. Was planning on adjusting bands but have read not to unless you are having problems. Pretty sure what the answer is going to be but..... adjust bands or.not???

Ok this may be a dumb question after reading all of these posts.....can I run 2 cycle with other fuel additives? (Power service) Only reason for doing that would be winter time. Does the 2 cycle help to prevent gelling? Would the 2 cycle plug my fass filters up sooner? Supertech cw-3 is a good oil to use?

Wouldn't running a snubber on the fuel pressure sensor prolong the life of the sensor?

Easy Killer!! lol....Tranny is doing fine so far @ 80,000 miles. Yes only 80k.... I believe these things were built to handle more than what people think with proper maintenance. I'm not a drag racer or a coal roller, but is fun to pull up to a sports car and leave them like they are setting still. I can only think that they are asking themselves... "Did that old dually just do that??" Back to fuild and service recommendations please. I know 15-40w and ATF +4, I know its probably been asked a ton but just looking to see what brands, if any, are performing good and at a reasonable price. I going to do the sensor and solenoid while the pan is off. Prob do a serp belt change and thermostat also. Trying to get ready to hit the camping season hard in the spring.

Most of the readings for the Edge pull from the OBDII. You have a sensor for the fuel lift pump pressure and have to drill for the pyro. My 01 has a trans sensor that I installed but it will also give you a temp reading from the OBDII also. But like everybody else says, if the monitor goes out you lose all. Not a lot of sensors to go bad.

Just found Cascade Transmission Parts web site today and was going to see if anybody has used it. Found the "47RE Solenoid Service Kit" for around $200. Should I go with that or just get governor solenoid and pressure transducer separate. Kit has everything except fluid. Just not sure if I would need some of the extra parts that nobody mentioned. part # 22420CKP

yeah heard of the band adjustment and actually on this forum somewhere. Was going to do that. The Borg Warner sensor and solenoids are hard to find. Anybody got any connections?