rseabur

Well after sleeping on it, I am a bit concerned they will be too hot. Was going to see if I could change them out to the +50 but just got email saying they shipped.

Well just ordered some +75s. Hopefully they are not going to be too hot. Guy told me I shouldn't have any trouble with the edge on 2.

Anybody know if the DAP injectors are constructed with all bosch components? The guy I spoke with at DAP didn't know.

I was not talking about he bosch rv275 that DAP is selling. Sorry if any confusion. I think I am going to go bigger like a +50 or 60 and was looking at different websites an saw some companies advertising rv275s mainly as +50s and one site +60. Just thought it was odd. I don't want to pay more for a little bigger injector only to find out that it is just an rv275. Was leaning towards the DAPs but everytime I talk to someone over there they tell me to go with a different injector. I try to talk to Jacob but they wont let me talk to him. Talked to Eric at Vulcan and he said he had a 60-70 injector that thought would work and at a great price. Wasn't sure how smokey it would be while towing though. Didn't mention the +50s that molar is running. But then the wife is trying to get me to trade in for a duramax. Oh the decisions

I am around the Springfield area which I believe is about an hour or so south of Findlay.

So the rvs are rated at the flywheel and where people are saying they would be a 30 Hp gain for my truck that would be at the rear wheel. I have not heard of people gaining 50 or 60hp with them. I was looking at some advertised 50 and 60 Hp injectors and when I started reading in the description they say that they are rv275s. Is that false advertising or are they doing something to the rvs to get the 50 or 60 Hp.

Why do some people advertise the Rv275s as either 40, 50 and even 60 Hp injectors? Have also read that they only add around 30 Hp to the 01 autos. Anybody have any info on this?

What oil are you guys running besides supertech? The local walmart only carry the gallon jugs and the half quarts that I like but they are not willing to give me a decent price in bulk. They only have like 1 maybe 2 bottles on the shelf. Napas prices are outrageous so thinking advance, auto zone or orielly might have something. Does brand really matter?

Spoke with Eric @ Vulcan performance. He has a set of 60-70 Hp injectors. Do you guys think they would be too big or smokey for my setup? He said he uses all bosch components. Not sure about diesel auto powers 60 Hp injectors. They don't look the same. Look stainless to me. I am open to suggestions on good quality injectors for a good price. I only want to change them once.

Moparman do you tow with comp on 5x3?

So I could turn the juice up while driving empty and that would help until I got some injector? Then once injector are installed I could turn it down a bit and the injectors would compensate. I thought that either juice turned up or bigger injecters would make it run hotter. Is that not the case?

Got the nail pulled today. The tire was filled with that slime stuff that they use to fix holes. Haven't got all the stuff sprayed off yet but think i am good to go with this problem. Just glad I didnt pull the dash to do the heater core and evaporator. Now its a brake job and trying fix sticking front calipers. Thanks for your input guys

Put an hx on a couple of weeks ago and not impressed with it campared to the hy. Am I missing something? I had a turnbuckle on the hy and have the edge boost elbow on the hx. The Hx seems to be a lot slower boosting up, running hotter and taking a lot longer to get down to 350 for shutdown. All of this while driving empty. Will it perform better under load? I am concerned for when I put the 13000 lb fifth wheel behind it. While cruising at 60 empty I am at 5lb boost and running around 750-800 with the juice on 3x5. Seems hot to me. The hy was around 7lb boost and 700 if I remember correctly. I am not see the advantages. I am wanting to get some rv's or some +50 injectors also. What are your thoughts?

You have to calibrate apps everytime you disconnect batteries??

I have the push loc tee cut in about where my factory filter housing was. Currently running a snubber. So I believe I am far enough away if vibrations from motor are an issue. So....I sould take the snubber off and run a needle valve??? I have the push loc tee cut in about where my factory filter housing was. Currently running a snubber. So I believe I am far enough away if vibrations from motor are an issue. So....I should take the snubber off and run a needle valve?? or run both?? Is the spring and ball changes tricking the sensor some how to give me temporary readings that are good?? Thats why I cant understand how the sensor is bad.. After the spring and ball changes pressure are good and rock solid for a few weeks. This happens at all fuel levels. I am wanting to do some small injectors but think i need to wait until i get this pressure figured out.

If the electric sender was bad why would pressures be good for a while after the spring and ball changes? Have heard to put a 2' piece of greese gun hose on after the snubber to take all pulses out. Is that a bunch of bs?

I am going to try to get a mechanic guage on this weekend just to see how it compares to the edge. I am pretty sure electric sender is fine since it doesn't bounce with the new spring and ball that was installed this past weekend. Holding 17 to 18 all time for now. But got a feeling it will start acting up again in about a month. I guess that is why they sent me 2 springs and 2 balls this time. I have did the bucket test awhile back and that was fine. Hard to trouble shoot when it is acting fine at the moment.

Would a bad overflow valve on the Vp have anything to do with this? Meaning the bouncing pressure guage

I know nothing to hold the fuel but it is all up hill to the filler neck. Loops out of pump, over frame, then down frame and up to neck. Just thought was weird the first two spring changes had fuel spilling everywhere and this time nothing.

Is it normal for the return line to the tank to be dry before the first start of the day? It has never been any other time.

I have the Cts. I have replaced that sensor twice. I did not do it this time as I am trying to figure out what the problem is. The pressure is all over the place with tank full or empty. With new spring I put in today pressure is fine at 18. Why the dry return line today? Is that a pump issue? Spring was changed before truck was started today. I cant see getting 3 bad sensors in a row from edge

Just got some super tech in the tank a few days ago. WOW what a difference. The noise of the motor seems to be cut in half.

I have a fass 95 that was put on in October of 2013. After about a month my fuel pressure will start bouncing all over the place. I call fass to do some troubleshooting and they send me a new ball and spring for the return line to the tank. I am on my 3rd ball and spring in this short time. It is not my daily driver. I only average about 5000 mile a year with most of them being summer miles. The first couple of times that I have change the ball and spring I had to take the diesel bath. This time my return line was dry. Is the pump working properly? I don't understand what is going on. I plan on calling them tomorrow but want to see if anyone else has had this problem or might know what is going on. I am running it off of the factory module. Do I need adraw straw? Tired of dealing with this thing. Thought they were reliable.