Me78569
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Everything posted by Me78569
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I bought the right plugs and created a passthrough on all wires other than the signal, then tapped that signal wire. I don't regulate DP to 2:1, rather I set a max desired DP for EB. Rather than regulate via DP I prefer you set your vane position tuning to keep DP in check where you want it. Down low in the rpm band you will find that you need high DP ratio to get the turbo to light. IE if you are at 2 psi boost you will see 10 psi of drive pressure when trying to get it to light. Then up top you will find that the DP ratio comes down. -
The base of my code is the same as his. %90 of the time my code is only using shaft speed as well. I think his latest set of code uses engine rpm as well. Mine used TPS and drive/boost for backup and to limit exhaust pressure if you like.
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The fleece controller was based on boost pressure. Not a good way to control the turbo. There are some guys over on LILbb.com using the vgt on a manual truck.
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sounds like you have a short in one of the 5v reference wires. I would disconnect the plug from the sensors and probe them with a Multimeter.
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~$20 per injector Here was a 0-60 run with the 7 x .012's. Not as clean as I would like but the tune is getting close. Compare that to the race tune with my 7 x .009's using wiretap. If you look at where I went WOT vs where I hit 60 the runs are nearly identical. So 7 x .012's running fairly clean with no wiretap compared to 7 x .009's with more smoke and running wiretap. In my opinion I would call the 7 x .009 run smokier than the 7 x .012's As a side note I am pretty sure I have a boost leak. I am gonna test here in a few days and see. I am also pretty sure i am pushing hte lockup clutch in the TC beyond what it can handle.
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The wiretap map using boost as one axis. The axis is 0-40psi. Boost scaling will change that to be 0-35 or 0-20. Boost scaling will compress the map between 0 and y9ur boost scaling psi. I dont really see a need to adjust it from 40 psi unless you need to throw a ton of fuel at the truck.
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Big thanks to aub1895 over on CF for lettings us save his writeup on an Eaton 10 speed swap I had to reroute the exhaust because there wasn't enough room for it between the frame rails. This is a convoluted stainless elbow I made up to mate the primary turbo to the exhaust brake Primary turbo + exhaust brake I had to put an air system on the truck so I upgraded to an air actuated exhaust brake. Modified exhaust The tank for the air system The air system runs the transmission, exhaust brake, horn, air suspension and air ride seat. Desiccant air dryer Air system installed Air system installed I had to upgrade to Optima Yellowtop batteries to run everything. Stock RR bellhousing Road Ranger transmission Beginning milling the adapter plate Turning the adapter ring Adapter ring Adapter ring + dodge bellhousing Adapter ring + adapter plate Step bored pockets for the twin countershafts in the back of the adapter plate Front of adapter plate Adapter plate installed Adapter plate + adapter ring installed Adapter plate + adapter ring installed Milling the dodge bellhousing Milling the dodge bellhousing Dodge bellhousing installed I bought a nv4500 bellhousing from advanced adapters for the project Concentric slave cylinder mount Concentric slave cylinder mount Turning concentric slave cylinder mount Concentric slave cylinder mount Concentric slave cylinder mounted I had to do a lot of research to find this slave cylinder, but it really simplified this conversion. It's out of a Mercedes Atego. I found an 1.750” input shaft for this transmission and had one of the techs at South Bend Clutch send me new set of clutch disks with 1.750” hubs in them. The input shaft had to be shortened, and I had to machine the flywheel to fit a larger pilot bearing. I was really impressed with the service from South Bend. When I got the slave cylinder I had to test it with different master cylinders to make sure that it had enough throw. The stock dodge, Mercedes Atego, and high capacity tilton master cylinders all failed. The only one that I could find that put out enough fluid was the high capacity Wilwood, but it didn't fit on the firewall where the old one was so I had to make some modifications. I had to take about 0.125” off of each of the fingers of the clutch diaphragm to make enough space for the input shaft. Master cylinder adapter Master cylinder adapter Master cylinder adapter Master cylinder adapter Master cylinder adapter Master cylinder adapter Master cylinder installed Removing old transmission Removing old transmission Installing RR Transmission Transmission mounts Transmission mounting bolts Transmission cross member Rubber washers cut on bandsaw Transmission mounts Transmission mounted The transmission mount goes over the transmission, so that I dont have to remove it when I take the transmission out, and it's on less thing to have hanging down under my truck. Plus, it seemed like the best attachment point for the transmission. There was little clearance on the top of the transmission, so I placed the cushioned mounts between the cross member and the frame. Transmission mounted Rebuilding the np205Rebuilding the np205Rebuilding the np205Np205 rebuiltTwin stick shifterNp205 mountNp205 mountNp205 mountedBuilding driveshaftsBuilding driveshaftsDriveshaftsTransmission to transfer case driveshaft installed.I used the driveshaft from the semi, shortened it down, and welded a 1410 weldable yoke on the transfer case end. I got the weldable end yokes for this project from DennysDriveshafts.com. They have a great selection of driveshaft parts, and everything is well organized.Transmission oil cooler from the semiTransmission oil cooler from the semiModified tunnel before cover is installedAir seat, cover and twin stick shifter installedEverything installed + mudI've been running the transmission for the last month and a half hauling some heavy loads, and it's work flawlessly. I'm very pleased with the results.I hope this information is useful to somebody. I read a lot on this forum and don't post very often, so here's giving back.
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fleabay is good for stuff like this.
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Yes I would think 7 x .014's would respond better to 330 than 7 x .012's but that;s a wild guess. I am going to write in a routine to add fueling if rpms are dropping and below 700. The reason the truck is stalling is the ecm is pulling too much fuel for the injecfors.
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Another video. @pepsi71ocean Another video of the result of increasing pop pressure here's a 30 mph 3rd gear locked pull. Snap input to %80 throttle. Same 7 x .012 injectors at 330bar The truck pulls so so so much harder compared to the 7 x .009s boost is a touch lower but I am not reving it out yet. Egts on hard pulls is unchanged.
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I should note that now the truck is able to stall itself when putting it into gear. cold truck is worse, but it can still hapeen in some situtations when hot. I am going to test if timing makes a difference or not, worst comes to worst I might try and up the idle to 800
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First time on the highway with the new injectors. My cruising egts are down no less than 50*f pretty sure mileage is up as well, but that will take aome time to figure out.
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750 idle is %100 normal. That's where my truck idles you look at the trans again. Something got messed up when they did the trans. if they wont help then you are screwed and forced to do it yourself or take it someplace else. @Dynamic any thoughts?
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Cleaning the sensor won't do anything. I would probe the signal wire coming off the map sensor for voltage and see what it reads. it should be near 4v engine off key on. 28 psi would be in the 2v region
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Post you tune json for us.
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done. might be the maple syrup version of office you are running
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uneducated guess follows this: lol, after driving around for a few hours now I can say that I think we could go a good bit higher in pop pressure, say 350 bar, IF there isn't a risk of damage as of a result of increased pop pressure. as far as I can tell once rpms are above ~1200 there is no difference in the 7 x .009s and the 7 x .012's in terms of feel. I didn't even bother adjusting idle timing, and I frankly don't see a real need beyond being bored. I think that pop pressure within reason is moot once you are moving. max pressure for the vp is ~1800bar, going from 310 to 350 is a 40 bar increase or %3 increase. The offidle conditions and feel are SIGNIFICANTLY different, but I think I have the tuning figured out for the handoff. OEM tuning is much much much more likely to stall when putting in gear. I am going to mess with timing to see if I can offset that.
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Increasing injector Pop Pressure Theory For awhile now I have been thinking about what would happen if we were to increase injector pop pressure. In the Common rail work you can control rail pressure via tuning, we cannot with the vp44. We get mechanical injectors with a pop pressure set in the 310bar area. What this means is that there is a limitation to how well fuel will atomize through a given size hole. It is my belief that this is why we have idle haze issues and smoke issues when you stepup to big boy injectors. So I asked Jacob over at @dieselautopower to take a set of core injectors I had and set them up as 7 x .012's at 330 bar or roughly 300psi more than stock. The idea is since we now have the ablity to control fueling and timing directly that maybe we can start running big injectors without issues with emissions / power / smoke / heat / mpg issues. Manually offseting the injection event delay with timing means we might be able to make the truck run good. I got them installed today and started in on my tuning. My trans can't handle more than ~450 hp so I am not using wiretap with these bad boys. If you are feeling rich you are more than welcome to send me a triple disc and a billet input My Tune, This tune is going to change a ton now that I have some seat time. Less cruise timing more canbus in the 15+ psi range. Note that my 0psi setting is %5 higher than my 1 psi setting. I am not sure if I need this anymore, as I have redesigned how fueling is handed off between the Quad and the ecm, I will get into that later. The increase pop pressure made offidle low throttle input situations hard to control. That is why there is that %5 higher 0 psi setting The Runs I took the truck out and did my typical route, some mixed crusie accel state driving and a few cruise to WOT throttle changes. EGTs: Highest EGT I encountered was 1253*f Boost: is down ~7 psi, but my tunes, as you can see in the logs are not maxing canbus up top. I am hitting 30psi of boost in 1st / 2nd. no chance to rev out 3rd. the truck has as much power as my 7 x .009's with wiretap using canbus only. Timing: You can feel the truck needing a touch more timing before 1200 rpm, but after that point you would never know that the pop pressures were increased. This was a low TPS to %100 tps showing offidle smoke. Findings I can't speak to the long term issues with running VP injectors at 330 bar, but at this point I am full confident that I am putting more power down across the board with a level of smoke output that is no different than the 7 x .009 injectors I had in it before. The turbo lights faster, amazingly as it already lite fast. I did not adjust idle timing at all, and hte truck idles smooth. No idle haze. I honestly didn't think I would keep the 7 x .012's in my truck after testing, but man they are nice. there is a ton of meat under the curve. We will see how the next few weeks go. The Datalogs 7x012datalog3.csv 7x012datalog2.csv 7x012datalog1.csv
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@Carbur8tr any thoughts?
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Thanks for your service, I am sure that Moparman won't care....just slip him a fiver.
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I could believe that. this should still work within the design of the mpg offset tool. At this point the rough draft is %25 of mm3 is max wiretap. That should get "close" I know know that anyone that does actually know would share.
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Use the Tune builder that @Carbur8tr created Or if you want to make a copy of a tune on the device, just load the tune you want to start with, then click "New" and the current tunes profile will be copied to the new tune.
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Right click run as admin.
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Learn to tune with it. We wont help you be smokey, and yes you will eat your trans. If you want it to be smokey you will have to learn what settings need to be adjusted
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Also has a boost smoothing functi on wrote in to keep the Quad from Rapidly increasing fueling if boost is increase to fast. It should smooth out the tune a little more.
