
Everything posted by Me78569
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He351ve stand alone Arduino controller code for 2nd Gen Cummins
Another chart. From a stop, No extra fuel only injectors.....Max EGT of under 900*f This turbo tune has almost no smoke even on the idle to high tps input.
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06 dodge
Reason for smarty vs EFI live?
- 06 dodge
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keyless entry
Dunno where the factory keyless was, but I would GUESS under the dash. doubt you hurt anything
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keyless entry
Yea these trucks have keyless...Mine worked great until my fob took a trip to the bottom of 11 mile res when we tipped a canoe haha. The light is a 3rd party system though. It might be a 3rd partry keyless, but you will have to dig to find out.
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Raptor seal and parts
the bearings is a typical skateboard wheel bearing FYI. The seal is a skirt seal, common part, I just cant find the partnumber
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Transmission issue now
Not just in N but you have to cycle through all gears / positions then back to N according to the book.
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Central Axle Disconnect (CAD) System Troubleshooting
Central Axle Disconnect (CAD) System Troubleshooting 4WD dodge trucks from 94-early 02’ had a CAD system for the front axle. It messes up a lot so here is a rundown on how to track the problems. One alternative is a posi lock cable that allows you to engage the CAD manually, eliminating a lot of problems. http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/ Vacuum Lines There are 4 vacuum lines that serve a purpose for the CAD. First off is the white or grey line. This line is the supply line for vacuum. It runs from a T connector on the firewall, down to the vacuum switch located on the top of the of transfer case. Secondly is a green line. This line T’s into the transfer case vent (marked in the pic) and also goes to the vacuum switch to serve as the vacuum vent. It runs up to the firewall and has a fancy end on it that keeps dirt out. Then there are the red and black lines that control the actual CAD. I think red is for 2wd and the black controlled 4wd. They go directly from the vacuum switch to the CAD on the axle. They swap vacuum so one will have vacuum and the other will just be vented. One cause of issues can be the vacuum lines being full of mud. Blow through each one to make sure they are all clear, any connection can be pulled off, there is nothing that is permanent, if it is rubber, it can be pulled. Vacuum Switch The switch itself is very simple and merely swaps vacuum between the red and black lines. All 4 lines go onto the big black connector which will pull off of the vacuum switch. Then you will have just the switch and 4 little ½” tubes where the vacuum lines go. To ensure it is working, take the grey line out and make sure it is getting vacuum (truck must be running). Then pull the red and black lines and the red should have vacuum if it is in 2wd and when you put it in 4wd, the vacuum should switch to the black. You can pull each line out of the 5” or so black hose coming out of the switch so you can feel for vacuum there, just remember where each line went. Make sure the big black connector is not full of mud and you might have to take the vacuum switch out by unscrewing it from the transfer case, then look in it and make sure it doesn’t have mud in the 4 ports either. If it does not switch vacuum, it is junk. NAPA has them in stock as they are a common part among vehicles. CAD Vacuum Solenoid The solenoid that does the actual 4wd engaging runs by vacuum with a diaphragm that pushes or pulls the axle coupling to engage or disengage 4wd. You can take it off of the truck and hook the vacuum lines up and see if it moves in and out. It should move in and out easily by hand. If it does not move easily by hand and does not move in and out when you switch vacuum (make sure it actually has vacuum at the lines too), then it is junk and must be replaced. NAPA has those too for much cheaper than anyone else. Ebay has them for even cheaper. 4WD Light Switch The 4WD indicator light you see on your dash is ran by the switch that is in the CAD housing. When the shift fork moves forward into 4wd, the shaft presses the light switch because it is just a push button. If your light doesn’t work you can test the switch with a multimeter set on ohms. Take the electrical connector off and measure resistance. It should go to 0 (or close to it, maybe 0-10ohms) when it is in 4wd and be at infinity (open) when it is 2wd. You can do it in the truck or you can simply unscrew the switch and just press the button by hand. If it does not do that, it is junk. If I remember, this was a dealer only part. (See video at end) Shifting Fork The fork is what moves the coupling back and forth and all I wanted to mention here is that there are 2 versions of it. One is for 94-99’ 2500s, and the other is for 2000-early 2002 2500s. 1500s use the same fork but for different years.
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Raptor seal and parts
There was a thread recently on CF about the seal too. but I can't find it.
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He351ve stand alone Arduino controller code for 2nd Gen Cummins
Ok cowboy, Here is a 3rd gear pull. at ~35 mph I held the lockup button and went to ~%80 TPS ( then backed off some) I pretty much flooded the turbo haha. had I rolled into the throttle it would have built boost better, but it was fun. EGT's are the most impressive on this one, max of 1200*f
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And he said, Let there be Light!
Well I tried to get some pictures, but it seems I don't have a camera that can adjust to show throw on the lights. update with the article
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Transmission issue now
It's been 2 months? That changes things some. Are you %100 fluid level is good? Did you cycle p to 1st then back to n then check fluid?
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Transmission issue now
I would guess that they messed something up. Sounds like you are leaking trans pressure, maybe they didn't tighten the VB or something like that. TV loose maybe.
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VP44 Troubleshooting
The timing piston is removed from the inside of hte pump, so no you can't really do much with it. I did get a few extra weeks out of my pump by running about 2x the amount of 2 stroke as normal and driving the truck HARD once it warmed up. dunno if driving hard did anything but it did "unstick" for a few weeks. Then it stuck and failed for good.
- Icy roads
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He351ve stand alone Arduino controller code for 2nd Gen Cummins
of the controller software?
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Dead pedal issues!!
So when the dead pedal happens your quads TPS value does not drop?
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He351ve stand alone Arduino controller code for 2nd Gen Cummins
Time for another graph. Again it was slick out so I could't get onto the go fast pedal until I was rolling. Cowboy once it clears up I will get you a graph of a 3rd anfd 4th gear pull from 1200 rpm to show you how boost comes on.
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Dead pedal issues!!
do you have any way to read live data? Edge juice? Quadzilla? Scn gauge? If so do you see the TPS reading drop off when it goes to dead pedal? Who is the pump through? when you sent it in did they give you any indication that they fixed something? what kind of fuel pressure?
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He351ve stand alone Arduino controller code for 2nd Gen Cummins
well I got some data, Looks like I am limited to 5 minutes worth of logs using the quadzilla so I will have to start / stop logging after a run. The log I have I don't go over 10 psi as it is snowy out there and I would have just blown the tires off the truck. Now I just have to figure out how to make it into a pretty graph iQuad-2016-01-07-10.07.372063219092.csv Anyways here is a graph, yaya pretty. no mor ethan %30 TPS, but proof of concept for hte data logging.
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He351ve stand alone Arduino controller code for 2nd Gen Cummins
Its snowing outside and I am considering going out, and giving her the beans on my other phone which the export works for......
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He351ve stand alone Arduino controller code for 2nd Gen Cummins
Alittle more turbo tuning and all I can say is WOW.... yes I know again. At 7000' altitude WOT 3rd gear boost 36 psi ( puts me near 45 psi at sea level if you go by Pressure ratio very rough math) egts 1205*f Drive pressure ~45 psi Kick in the pants. I did recently learn that the quadzilla can now do data logging and export to csv, so I am working to figure that out and get some runs posted. I might be able to make some pretty graphs like cowboy.
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Help!! not sure if grid heater is working properly
100k would make the truck think it is well below zero. I would be curious what IAT reads with that resistor. A couple things will disable high idle none idle state - could be due to a APP that reads 1% vs 0% Brakes hit - could be a brake brake light switch Since you have a Juice you can see what IAT temps are and what ECT temps are? As for your grids, Do you know if one grid works? Have you tested the relays?:
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Normal day...
see, proof..... I washed it before that trip. My wifes truck however gets washed all the time. If you don't wash a nice car / truck it has the reverse affect.
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Normal day...
I have found when it comes to junky cars / trucks it is best not to treat them good in any way shape or form. If you do it all goes to their head and they feel like they have the right to break down. For my truck a wash is the first step to the wheels falling off.