Me78569

Revmax would be my choice for a single. That or dpc

Well if you stay below 400 hp then a good billet single disc should be fine. I like my revmax, pair that with a good VB and you would be good, ASSUMING your trans is in good shape now.

What are your HP goals? As for the VB, I would say if you can replace injectors you can do a valve body, However it all depends on how worn out your current VB is. A worn VB cannot really be saved by the average joe.

If I get some free time tomorrow I will put together something in depth for you and how to accomplish it.

Update with the article for the install Just a small teaser, I am putting together an article, but in the meantime. Morimoto mini h1 bi xenon swap to resolve the poor 2nd gen lights.

CSM, Thought you were talking about the edge comp, not tst comp. The TST comp is great to stack with the Smarty, the edge comp and smarty has been known to lose power on the dyno compared to just hte edge.

I personally don't like the idea of stacking the smarty with and egde comp. Seem strange to disable the timing of the smarty ( what is it really good at) and allow the edge to do it. If you still have a stock 47re don't add power. You need at LEAST a TC and VB before you add power. The stock trans is good for stock power, that's it. Put your money into trans mods. The TC and VB felt more noticeable than my 100 hp injectors. Power to the ground is where it counts.

the super hx40 is the same compressor wheel as the he351 turbos. I know my turbo has seen 160,000 rpm with the boost code. Looking at the VERY lame turbo made holset gave us for the turbo I am not worried about 140,000, but I would like to see better control on the top end. The turbo likes to slingshot from 100,000 to 140,000 in the blink of an eye, so I am thinking with the OBD I can help manage that.

I would love to know what you see. If 6.7 guys are pushing 450-500 with it they have to be above 150,000 Holset specs the super hx40 at 130,000

If it aint broke don't fix it. Honestly if you truck is in good shape and reliable I would just fix any clunks and so froth. I wouldn't go out looking for things to do due to mileage. If it needs a coolant flush, do it, if it needs an oil change do it, but don't go looking for things to replace at a given mileage. Your pocket book will hate you for it. A lot of the drive-line is good to 200,000 and beyond. Just keep and eye on things, check your steering, wheel bearings and u joints every couple months. Take note of anything new happening when you drive / brake etc.

I hope so haha, Yea I got bored again, I made some changes that really helped with the top end and now I want more haha. currently I am maxing boost at 32ish psi with shaft speeds right at 140,000, Egt's are right at 1200 at WOT, so there is more to give. I think if I can read engine rpm ( why I am goign with OBD) I can keep the bottom end I have right now, or improve slightly, while opening up the top some. Currently you get to 30ish psi and vanes open to keep shaft speeds in check, but it opens too much and you don't have the drive pressure to keep building. however I am struggling to be able to find a good curve that doesn't overreact due once rpms climb. I can tune it for top end, but then the bottom falls out. Right now I am at 1:1 drive to boost at anything over 10psi of boost, so I am really not pushing the turbo hard. The 6.7 guys push their turbo harder in stock form haha.

I always used to ski steven's pass up there. Huge shock that only one resort in colorado does night skiing.

Strange, I go back home ( international Falls Mn) about every year around christmas time. If I plug it in for 2 or 3 hours it will jump to life regardless of how cold it is, could be -30 / -40 pre wind chill pretty easy. However my truck at -30 driving struggles to build more than 140-160 coolant with the front blocked. trans temp never hits 60*f

I must just be cheap, but I don't bother plugging it in unless it is below 0 lol.

So the code will once again split, there will be 3 sets of code. Boost controlled vane position, Freq controlled vane position, and Freq + OBD controlled position. Boost code: vane position is set in normal driving by the boost recorded, IE 5 psi vanes = x 10 psi vanes =10. Drawback to this mode is it is VERY easy to push the turbo out of it's map in terms of shaft speed. You also can't really control cruising vane position to allow for a less high strung turbo. The turbo is always small when at low boost operation IE cruise. This code is no longer updated, but you can download it and run it if you don't want to use everything needed for the Freq reading ( umax 9924 chip) Freq Code: Vane position is controlled by turbo shaft speed, TPS and boost are taken into consideration IE: at shaft speed x vane position is x. Drawback to this is it is hard to tune the turbo. You can tune it for low engine speed or high, but not really both. The current tune / curve is pretty good for middle of the road, but it's top end tops out about 30psi to keep turbo shaft speeds in check. This is a result of having to tune the turbo for lower end operation. This code is no longer updated as of 1.05, it will be downloadable in it's current form and does work very well in DD duty. Freq + OBD Code: Vane position is controlled by turbo shaft speed, but position is altered by TPS + Boost + Engine RPM. Biggest advantage to this is that without knowing the engine RPMS you are unable to predict how much exhaust flow is coming from the turbo. At high engine RPMS the turbo will need to be open more than at low engine rpms even if shaft speeds are identical. This will make the curve more tune-able for both low end operation and WOT high end operation. The Torque curve should be VERY flat and you shouldn't have any issues keeping Shaft speeds below 140,000 rpm, while keeping boost near 35-40psi. This is really the only way in my mind to push the turbo to the limit, while keeping it smoke free at low speeds, without driving the turbo way beyond it's map. You should be able to push ~400 - 450 hp in a 2nd gen safely. Updates for this code will come as soon as I test out the OBD adapter for the Arduino. An arduino shield should come in the future to allow for an easier install or DIY. The OBD adapter you will need is http://freematics.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=30 and cost $39.90 shipped from aussie land.

Thanks looks good.

I bet! the provided wire should read most of the way up the a pillar, so I would think you would only need a few feet of cable max, I doubt that will have a large impact on resistance.

haha doubt you wanna buy it, it comes in rolls of 500' it is just 18 gauge 6 strand with a ground wire, so 7 wire total. Cat5e should work fine, provided it stays inside the cab, and not exposed to oil and so forth. Great looking install by the way!! Pretty cool to see it up there.

I actually don't have enough wire to build you anything haha. I actually had less than a foot left over from the first order. but if you want you can build your own using the male and female. Just run the wires pin 1 to pin 1 on male to female, pin 2 to pin 2 etc etc etc etc. Parts you need are here http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-Circuit-Connector-2-Complete-Molex-Wire-Conn-with-Pins-Molex-Mini-Fit-Jr-/221887898821?hash=item33a98ca4c5:g:U9IAAOSwqu9U0n5M

I really don't idle mine for long unless it is below 0. 30 seconds or so depending on how long it takes me to clean the snow off the window.. Once temps get down to 0 ish I will let it idle for a few minutes and kick it into 3 cyl mode. Bigger thing is taking it easy while things warm up. I keep boost down around 5 psi until temps come up to above 140. I wouldn't worry so much about how long you warm the truck up. The high idle switch works the same with out without any tuner on the market. the nice thing about the high idle switch is it simply makes the truck think it is a set temp out to enable the factory high idle feature. If it is cold out or I am busy and have time to let the truck warm up I will flip on 3 cyl mode, and enable my exhaust brake, this will warm the truck up to 140*f within 5 minutes. The Switch also allows you to do prolonged 6 cyl high idle if you ever need ot idle the truck for a long period of time. This will prevent Cylinder washdown when idling for long periods.

I love DT series connectors.

That's what I would do. Without pulling the canister there is no way to really know what someone else before did or did not do

That's what I would do. Connect the raptor right to the battery and see if it will run so long as it has power.

Vp44 can leak if it isn't tight on the cover. I would check the 4 bolts that hold the vp44 on.

yep, Typically you will see diesel leaking from raptor around where the wires come out.