Me78569

Getting hard to not talk about it Ed? hahahah

Couldn't agree more.

So don;t go throwing money at it yet. p1693 is compainion code meaning that there is a code in the system but you need to get a code scanner to read it. Go to the local parts store and ask to borrow one. Read the codes and report back.

Are your grid heaters cycling? Pop the hood, turn key to on so the Wait to Start light comes on, then run to the intake horn and hold your hand NEAR the grid heaters at the base of the intake manifold. Do you feel it getting hot? What happens if you turn to crank just long enough to get the lift pump running for 30 seconds, then let it sit for 15 seconds and then try an crank? You could have an air leak causing fuel to drain back to the tank.

Humm cool thanks. No worries I am curious as to how they wired in the aux ,but it isn't worth voiding a warranty. People never let you have any fun haha.

I would guess they ride on the "diaphram" The pocket behind looks to have holes on the outside edge to left pressure out I would assume thus pushing fuel into the chamber and back to the tank? ( mike correct my her because I am flying pretty blind.) But the fact is that jasper and bluechip both say code 216 is due to a cranked "diaphram" causing time to not advance, well the Timing advance piston isn't link to the "diaphram" as explained by Mike.

the ones on the back connected to the chassis is the ground connection for the radio. I am not sure what the white two pin does. Mine is not connected. I am unable to find much info in regards to the radio itself. If you are feeling adventurist I would love for you to pop open your unit and take pictures of how you Aux is wired in.

crazy? ouch, I prefer......well I guess crazy is good.

haha sure ed I will reroute it so it looks better and snap some pictures. /\#* you hahaha gonna need more zip ties. underdash might as well be a jungle I

haha Ed not everyone likes the same thing. I am just a child in the end right? lol the square plate will look better though

Here is a day time picture of my install

Here's my install of the custom mount. Ed had to make the wires longer to reach, but it works good.

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/images/2ndgen24v/bhaf/BHAF_Template.doc

A few weeks ago I ordered some 3.5mm headphone jacks to try and wire up an AUX input into my radio. I did see a write-up on here for the Infinity system, but not the cd/cassette Chrysler radio with the number p04704383ah on the top. Finally got the parts in today to start in on this. Spent a bit of time looking and didn't find anything in regards to this radio. You will need - Radio - Headphone jack with internal Switch - Soldering iron - Heat Shrink - 5 pieces of wire (3x6") (2x3") - Phillips Screw Driver - Multimeter - SuperGlue - Needle Nose - Small Flat head screw driver The headphone jacks I ordered have a left / Right / Ground / and a 2 pole single throw switch. This allows for you to route a signal, such as the radio, though the head phone jack when not in use and disable the signal coming for the radio when you put the headphone jack in. HERE is the jack I used. or searching on EBAY for "3.5 headphone jack switch". I am sure Radioshack has something similar, but I didn't have a chance to look. You will be responsible for understanding how the jack you ended up with works. Since different jacks will have different prongs etc I cannot tell you which prongs go where. Use a multimeter to determine what prongs do what when there is nothing plugged in and when there is something plugged in. The jack I bought has a clear cover which made it easy to see how it worked. I ended up using a larger wire and heat shrink but you get the idea behind the wiring. First you need to disassemble the radio. Ensure to take note of how things go together because you will have to put it back together. If you are unsure about something take a picture of it. This DIY isn't meant to be a ste by step guide to disassemble the radio. There are two screws holding the top cover on towards the top back left and right of the radio. Once those are removing you can pull off the cover. Next you need to remove the cd player. Do this by removing the phillips head screws holding the cd player in place. They are located towards the front of the unit on the left and right hand side on top. You can pull the cd player section straight up, take care to disconnect the ribbon cable under the cd player. Picture shows the approx location of the screws holding in the CD player Next remove the faceplate of the radio. There are 2 screws on both the left and right hand side of the radio holding the plastic faceplate on. You will need to remove the volume knob and equalizer slider knobs. There are also 4 clips hold the bottom and top of the faceplate to the rest of the radio. Gently pop them loose. You will end up with this. the middle board is the next to come out. It is what you will be altering to make the AUX input work. There are 4 bent metal fingers holding this board into place. They are locked in place with solder so you will need to use the soldering gun to melt the solder and bend the metal fingers straight. Take care to not pull it too hard. There are 5 different connections on this board that you need to pop loose to remove the board and one ribbon cable that connects to the tape deck. The red dots on the above picture around the edge of board #3 are the bent metal Fingers you need to straighten. You will also need to remove/bend out slightly the tuner module from the passenger side of the radio. It connects to the board you need to remove, but can't unless the tuner is swung out of the way. The Front case section and board will come out as one piece The main connections you will be working with are the Tuner input and the Amp input Once you get this board out use a small flat head to scratch off a section on the two circuits shown. You will need to ensure that there is no continuity between the amp input and tuner input connectors. Using the wire you will effectively put the headphone jack in place of that circuit. You can find the circuit in the back right hand side of the board, You can see brown marks from a sharpie in the above images. Next you will need to solder in the two short sections of the wires from your supplies to the Radio Tuner board input. The connector is located on the front of the radio to the right hand side if the radioface is pointed towards you. Here are the pins you want to connect your wires to. These short sections of the wire go to the switch poles on the headphone jack. Left and Right don't really matter as the amp controls which signals go to what speakers. At this point if you have a quality radioshack soldering iron you will need to sand off the grime :rof:banghead: Next you need to connect the input prongs of the headphone jack and ground to the Amp input connector. to do this flip over the above board and solder on the L/R/G from the headphone jack. These prongs on the jack will be the ones that make direct connection to the actual jack. Once the poles in the headphone jack and the input for the headphone jack are wires onto the board test the amp input and tuner input for continuity between the two on both the right and left channels. There shouldn't be any continuity when something is plugged into the headphone jack. When the headphone jack is empty however there should be continuity, effectively passing the tuner signal through the headphone jack and into the amp. Once you verify that the jack is working as it should then you can move on. Next reinstall the board into the Radio case. Take care to line up all the connectors. This takes a little time, but isn't too tough. Rebend the metal fingers holding the board down. once the board is back in place route the jack and wires through the hole in the case for the tape deck. Once that is done you just have to drill a hole into the faceplate of the radio and mount your headphone jack. I chose to mount it in the tape deck flap since I don't think I own a tape anymore. If you choose this method you will need to superglue the tape deckflap closed. From my looking I couldn't find a location that my jack would actually fit, you might find a better place. Run the wires for the switch through the opening in the case for the tape deck. Insert your headphone jack into the hole you created and tighten it down. At this point you will want to reinstall the cd player on top of the board you were working with. Take care to ensure that the wires you soldered into place are not being pinched. Once that is done reinstall the faceplate and the volume knob and equalizer knobs and the screws holding it in place. Reinstall the top to the radio and any remaining screws and test. Mine sounds great. plug in my phone when the radio is in tuner mode and it switches to Aux-in from my phone. :blues::party018::thumbsup: Let me know if there is any confusing bits.

Anything that goes into the pump does cool the computer, but if we assume that the vp44 sends %70 of the fuel back then, when the overflow valve is closed the comptuer is only seeing ~%30 of the fuel flow it could see, plus whatever is leaking out of the back of the head ( very little). Now if we open up the overflow then the comptuer is seeing %100 of the flow that is possible because 30% is flowing through always, then an addition %70 is flowing through the vp and out the overflow. Overflow closed the vp is only seeing 30 gph from a 100 gph pump Overflow open the vp is seeing 100GPH Seems to me for good cooling you want to see %100 of the fuel flow possible right?

so if I am understanding what the article is saying means that if the check valve is not open then the only fuel going back to the tank is whatever comes out of the back of the head ( very little) That makes sense because there are only two places fuel can flow back to the tank,. overflow whihc doesn't open unless over 14psi, and the back of the head. So if that is correct then the fule is VERY stagnate when pressure is below 14psi. The 70% going back to the tank doesn't seem like a hard number really. I can't say I believe anyone that says that %70 of the stock 30ish GPH provided from a stock pump flows back to the tank from the back of the head. the VP44 will be using a set amount of fuel based upon rpm and load so when we increase the GPH flowing through it that 70% number should increase. Again though if the overflow valve isn't open then what does that % drop to? 5% ? Do we know how much fuel flows from the back of the head?

yep cooling is done right as soon as fuel goes into the vp HOWEVER the amount of fuel that goes into the vp depends on if the overflow valve is open or not. Realitivly stagnate fuel is going to do a poorer job of cooling than moving fluid. Good job on the Pictures, it is looking good.

Live a little I agree that the sticker will look better and be better all around when it comes to this mount, but it is possible to do and it does fit nice with what is off the shelf now.

From looking at it I wouldn't recommend you putting it there. It doesn't seem sturdy enough and deep enough to really put the switch there. That was my first idea, but the roof slopes down at that point and there really isn't a lot of room over the garage door opener area. Ed is talking with someone about getting stickers made up for the faceplate so you won't have to cut a large hole so close to the lights. You will just have to drill two smaller holes 3/8" and 1/8" I believe, one for the actual switch and one for the led.

I would think that adding virtualization to the equation would make it more troublesome. I run the quad tune loading process from my windows 7 machine all the time without issues. Not saying you wont have issues ever, but I consider it pretty low risk. running the pv upgrade however seems ot be a different story.

mine does this if I dont have it plugged into the truck. my thepry is the laptop usb doesnt put out enough power to run the quad box. if I just plug my box into thw truck and my laptop everthing works fine. agree with ed on this one xp is best

Saved for a possible 3rd post

See First Post

In an Effort to Keep all info in one place I have moved all the info into an article found HERE Feel free to ask questions in this thread, but as I stated in the article I am not longer offering any support beyond what is covered in the article. Jacob at DAP is the new Owner of Quadzilla and all support requests should be forwarded to him. Thanks Nick

Ed sent me a high idle switch for me to install into my overhead console, and do a write-up on it This is for guys that have no where else to put it due to too many gauges, or in the rare case like Jigabop who has too many options :hehe: Ed extended the length of the wiring to allow for the wires to be run from the overhead console, under the headliner, down the A pillar, and into the engine bay. Whole install took about 2 hours. You will need - Drill - 2 1/8" whole saw - Smaller drill bit to drill the center ( 1/4" - 3/8" something small to ensure the center hole is in the right position) - Center Punch - Straight Edge/Ruler 1/16" - X Acto Knife - Wire cutters/Strippers - Soldering Iron - Heat Shrink - Lighter - Phillips Screw driver - Super glue or strong glue of choice - Zip Ties First thing you need to do is remove and unplug the overhead console. Do this by opening up the Garage Door Opener holder. You will see two clips that hold it onto the roof ( near the front). While pressing the clips pull down the front and slide it back. Next you need to remove the wiring and computer. Remote the Phillips screws hold in the lights (x4) and the Phillips screws holding in the Computer (x3) ****Notice the hole between the lights, this is where Ed's wiring harness will be feed through. There is plenty of room between the console and the roof. Remove the faceplate from the High Idle Switch. Do this by removing the set screen in the knob and pulling the knob off. Remove the retaining nut and spacer. You will need to reinstall this later in the reverse order to take care to remember how it dissembled so you can reassemble it. Just looking at the Overhead Console you can see it fits about perfect right between the lights. That being said it is easy to see that if you don't measure the center of the lights you will mess up and break your lights and end up with an off center hole Measurements you want for the center of the plate is 1" vertical and 13/16" horizontal From the corners draw lines to find the center then verify with the above measurements. Measure and measure again. User a Center Punch to set the middle for the drill bit. ENSURE that you are perfectly centered. If this center is not perfect your faceplate WILL NOT FIT. After using the Center Punch, place the drill bit in the center to set the center hole for the hole saw. Again ensure that the drill is set perfectly in the middle BEFORE drilling. Next use the 2 1/8" Hole saw to cut out a circle for the faceplate to sit in. Drill slowly and stop as often as needed to reduce the amount of heat build up to prevent the plastic from melting too much. Verify that the hole you are cutting fits between the clear lens for the lights. Again it will be close, but it does fit. Above all take your time cutting the hole out. The slower you do it the better the end result will be. The plastic is bound to melt some, but you can take care of this with the help of an xacto knife. Once the hole is cut flip over the overhead console and verify that the clip section for the lens is intact. If you notice any breaks glue them back together. You may need to remove the lens to ensure you don't loose the functionality of the button press lights by gluing them shut. Using your faceplate and X-acto knife fit the faceplate into the cut hole. You may need to cut out some melted plastic etc to get the faceplate to fit good. Test the movement of the lens once the gauge is test fitted. Cut overhead console as needed to make the lens work. Once you are satisfied with the fitment/position of the faceplate glue it into place in the console. I choose to have the LED towards the back of the truck, but you can rotate the faceplate until it is in the position of your choosing. Glue from the back in a few locations slowly to ensure that no glue seeps to the front of the faceplate. Once the glue has dried then install the switch assembly into the faceplate in the reverse order of which you disassembled it. You will have to test the knob position, Far left is the off position. Once you have aligned the switch assembly tighten down the retaining nut that holds the faceplate. Reinstall the knob and verify again the turning the knob all the way counter-clockwise makes the knob point to the off position. Next reinstall the lights and computer by feeding Ed's wires through the OEM lights and reinstalling the Phillips screws in the reverse order of the above. Take your time when reinstalling to ensure that the harness fits and the lights click again when you press the lights. It will take a little work to get everything fitting good, but you will not need to cut anything on the light and button assembly. Gently bend Ed's harness to contort in the same place as the OEM wires. Next you need to supply power to the LED light. Thankfully there is 12v power already in the overhead console. The pink wire coming off the plug is 12v and the black wire next to it is ground. The pink wire is a keyed power wire, the yellow wire is a power that is supplied based upon doors open and interior lights. Cut the Black and Pink wire with enough length to install heat shrink on the end. I cut them about 2" from the OEM plug. Strip the red and black wire that are together in the white conduit. Ensure that you DON'T cut the wires that go to the OEM plugs for ECT and IAT. There will be 4 wires in the harness that goes to the engine and 2 wires in the harness that you are cutting. Pre-install the heatshrink wrap onto the plug side of the cut wires. Solder together the cut pink wires and the red wire in Ed's harness. Then Solder together the cut black wires and the black wire in Ed's harness. Using a lighter heat up the heat shrink wrap to seal your solder splice. Use a zip tie to hold the wires together. Test the led in the switch by plugging the OEM connection and turning the High idle switch to any position. If it doesn't work use a multimeter to test for power to the OEM connector. Next remove your sun vizor by removing the 4 Phillips screws holding it to the roof. Feed the Ed's ECT/IAT harness under the headliner by Gently pulling it down. It doesn't take much. Once you feed it through the console hole in the headliner you can pull it towards the A pillar. There is plenty of room for the harness to run between the window and the front of the headliner. You can slip it under the headliner easily. The A pillar cover will pull off by just popping it out. Use zip ties to the hold Ed's harness to the OEM wiring running down the A pillar. Route the wiring through the dash and through the firewall into the Engine bay. Once at this point the install is the same as the other Types of installs for Ed's High Idle switch. You will end up with something that looks like this. ****Ed, Let me know if you want me to remove the bit about them disassembling the switch. You could install the faceplate with the switch assembled, but it would be a good bit harder to do.