ty_lowcountry

Since it is a stock replacement, I think it is running just like the stock setup. However, I'm not 100% positive. It was in the truck when I bought it.

I have an airtex lift pump and it has been great. I changed my fuel filter last night and went to bump the starter and got nothing. My pump in the past has always run after bumping the starter. I got the truck running and the fuel pressure was fine: 18 PSI idle, 14 PSI cruise, never below 12PSI. I have stock fuel lines so it is going to drop a little more than bigger fuel lines. Any thoughts as to why the fuel pump didn't run when I bumped the starter? Would it be some sort of relay issue, computer issue, or just fuel pump issue?

Dumb question: where can I find one?

I love my Scanguage II, but the OBD II port is junk on my truck. It looses connection all the time. I used to fill the truck up to the Scanguage procedures religiously, but it looses connection and the darn thing resets to factory default. It got very annoying, so now I just use it to read codes and monitor IAT, Voltage, MPH, and FWT.

I am pretty sure it is the same part, but you can always call your local dodge parts dept and double check. Dang, I wish I would've known about that one. I'm sure it is only a matter of time before the plastic piece breaks again. I'll probably go the heater treater route next time.

I give online to my church and actually prefer it that way. Apart from the convenience, it is also a great way to keep track of giving -- not necessarily for tax incentives, but more for auditing purposes. If I ever get audited, I know exactly where to go to show an auditor exactly how much I've given. It is a shame that I even have to worry about being audited and even more so prove how much of the Lord's money I've given back to Him, but that is world we live in.

My wife and I took a trip to England earlier this year. Video from Bath, UK: From the Cotswolds (this one is a little longer, and features pretty much only my wife...it was pretty much landscape or my wife, and she was a good sport): Enjoy!

Haha that did turn out looking like an article didn't it

A little over a year ago I posted a thread seeking help on my A/C. You can view it here: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/8324-need-ac-help/ It has since been archived, but I'll give you the background to it here to save you some reading. The problem:(taken from the original post): "Most of the time (95%), my A/C just blows hot air regardless of where the temperature control knob is. If I have been driving for a while, especially on the highway, the A/C might start blowing nice cold air. I never get too excited because soon after that, I will hear a single pop noise under the hood and the air gets hot again. This pop noise (thud or thump might be more accurate) usually occurs when I am slowing down. I'm not sure if that is just coincidence, though. I know nothing about a/c systems, but it is killing me not even knowing what is causing this." Recommendations from some forum members: Check the hi/lo pressures with some manifold guages. Sure enough I needed to recharge the system, but I got lucky for about 2 days and the same problem came back. Shame on me for not reporting back to the forum, but soon after that my 2014 year sort of became a roller coaster of events and the A/C fix needed to be put on hold as well as participation on the forums on the interwebs. Well, a year and some change later, I decided it was time to fix. I started to diagnose a little more. When I turned the temp control from cold to hot (on MAX A/C), it would go hot and not back to cold. So, I my first thought was that I needed to replace the blend door. So, the solution to my problems? A $17 part ; Blend Door Spacer Servo p/n 5012923AB. I read about it in cumminsforum and ordered the part. I figured, it is worth a try to $17. Sure enough when I pulled the servo out, it was cracked. Procedure: Getting the blend door motor out is kind of a pain in the rear. There are two phillips head screws holding it in place. One is super easy to get to and the other is not so easy (well for me at least). I ended up cutting some of the rubber mat and padding away to allow enough room to get in there with a phillips head but and small pliers A right angle phillips head would've done the job, but I didn't have one around so I used what I had. Here you can see the blend door motor removed and the mat/foam cut away. That piece sticking up in the middle is where the Servo Spacer sits. Once the blend door motor has been removed from the mounts, You'll need to reach up where the motor was and remove the spacer. The whole job took about 45 minutes and 40 of those minutes was me fighting to get that second phillips screw out! I hope this helps someone. I'm happy to report ice cold A/C, no more thump sound then heat, and temp control works again.

Well, Happy belated Easter. (I have been out of town and just got back to the Internet). He is risen! I hope everyone had a great Easter celebrating the resurrection of our King!

I was going to say the same thing! I had no idea it got that hot there!! The heat and the humidity down here have a great relationship and work really hard together to make sure that you don't get too cold in the summer.

No kidding. Last summer was brutal with no a/c

Ah, yes. I forgot to mention that we did that too. Pressure stayed ~35 PSI at higher RPM. I went for a windows-up joy ride as well and it kept blowing nice and cold.

Hi all, thanks again for the help! I recharged the a/c system and it was blowing ~43* with outside temp @ about 78* Low side was about 35 psi and the high side was at the 200 psi area

Alright, so I finally was able to test the pressures. And my results are below: Low pressure is way too high, but I'm not sure why? Also, when the engine is running, both the low and hi sides will drop in pressure. Then I hear a click sound and the pressure goes back up. I have a video if it makes it easier for explanation.

Awesome, thanks for the replies! I will get some manifold gauges and check.

The weather is soon going to be hot here in the low country of SC, and the inside of my cab won't be any cooler. Here's the issue: Most of the time (95%), my A/C just blows hot air regardless of where the temperature control knob is. If I have been driving for a while, especially on the highway, the A/C might start blowing nice cold air. I never get too excited because soon after that, I will hear a single pop noise under the hood and the air gets hot again. This pop noise usually occurs when I am slowing down. I'm not sure if that is just coincidence, though. I know nothing about a/c systems, but it is killing me not even knowing what is causing this. Any and all input would be greatly appreciated. I had to deal with it last summer as my funds were going towards a wedding and honeymoon, but this year I want cold air. Having heat blowing in your face in 100* humid summer weather is most unpleasant.

Awesome, I will look at it this afternoon. Thanks!

My scangauge every now and then loses its connection. If I wiggle the OBDII port, the scangauge will come on and just say "Connecting..." for a while then shut back off. It is getting kind of annoying because it'll reset itself and all my settings go back to the default settings -- which makes getting real MPG numbers very difficult :banghead: Has anyone come across this or know of any solutions? Thanks, Ty

Like mopartechnician said, Geno's garage has the kit you need. I believe they call it the 97-99 fuel filter kit. I had the same exact issue on my '99 and got that kit. Simple install and the spin on filter is nice to have. If you go that route, you will need I crimp the WIF sensor wires. No big deal there. I actually got some 2-pin waterproof connectors to make life easier when changing the fuel filter. One thing to note, what that kit, you will lose your fuel eater element as there isn't one on there. I'm on the coast in SC so it wasn't a problem for me. They also make a little part that just goes in place on the heater element on the stock housing which is obviously cheaper. I went with the spin on filter kit since it is more convenient.

Nah Beaufort Stew is the same as Lowcountry Boil or Frogmore Stew. Just different names. Gotta love that southern cooking!

Thanks for the welcomes! dripley, nothin like some good ol Beaufort stew. Shrimp and grits is hard to beat too!

I must be one of the lucky ones when it comes to fuel pressure on the Airtex. Currently I am getting: Idle: 19 PSI WOT: 10-12 PSI Cruise: 14 PSI I drive it very conservatively, so I rarely see the PSI hit 10 or even 12 PSI as I understand 10 PSI in the minimum before bad things can start happening. Being that I have the stock fuel lines, there is a greater PSI drop than I would like, but my next system is most likely going to be a Fass 95 (pump only). I don't see a point in spending money on a big line/relocation kit if I know I am going to get that system in the near future.

I've been poking around here for a while and finally made an account. I bought my truck in 2012 with ~210,000 miles for $5,600. It just had the VP and lift pump replaced (albeit Airtex) a few months before I bought it. One previous owner who I've known for basically my whole life who took good care of. Never towed anything more than a 21' boat. Thanks for the wealth of information here! Invaluable resource! -Tyler