ty_lowcountry
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Everything posted by ty_lowcountry
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Full delete (Sinister delete kit). -
Thanks John!
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Hey everyone! I just purchased a 2008 2500 4x4 Auto Laramie with total wife approval. Truck is all stock except what's noted below. I know gauges are important with diesels (I've had a '99 for years), but admittedly I'm not sure what gauges are necessary for the 6.7L. My plans for the truck are primarily daily driving with some light towing. Currently, the truck has been deleted with a mini maxx installed by the previous owner and has been on the "street" tune. So, is my transmission safe on that tune or should I change it to the stock tune? And what gauges do you recommend? Thanks!
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Just did a tranny service. The reverse band was still in good shape. Front band needed adjusting and after adjusting, the adjustment screw is about flush with the locking nut, indicating I'm close to a rebuild. Shifts better now from 1 to 2. We have a great tranny shop near us so I'm confident they'll do it right. $$$ won't be fun though lol
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Have no fear about your guns here in South Carolina We aren't an open carry state, but we are a concealed carry state. We have no magazine capacity limits or any of that nonsense.
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I was born, raised, and still live in the Charleston area. What specifically do you want to know? Charleston (and surrounding areas) is a very charming place. The locals here are very kind and good people. We have seen (especially in the last 5-10 years) a huge influx of folks moving here from out of state for business. We have a growing economy here with Boeing, Volvo, Bosch (yes they used to make the VP44 here...sorry??lol), and a growing tech industry. The economy and housing market has grown much faster than our infrastructure--specifically our highway system. Depending on where you live, if there is a wreck on I-526 or I-26, you can be sitting in traffic for a long time. Now, don't picture LA or Atlanta traffic, but to us natives, any traffic is frustrating! Haha. Real estate: the market is expensive here relative to other parts of the country, but it can also be lucrative if you invest wisely. Obviously, there are going to be areas that are much pricier such as Mt Pleasant, the peninsula (downtown), and parts of Summerville. My wife and I both currently have corporate jobs and have invested wisely in the area and are now in a home that we would otherwise not afford had it not been from making money in real estate. Food: I gotta admit, we have some good food here. I mean, it is the South after all! Just pace yourself is my best advice haha Attractions: We have an incredible amount of history here. You can visit sites that date back to the Revolution as well as the Civil War (where it all began). Schools: There are some great schools in the area (public and private). I would avoid North Charleston public schools. Weather: Summers are HOT, fall is incredible, winter is short but can be cold at times (Jan-Feb is the worst), and spring is pleasant. Hunting/Fishing: Hunting and fishing is very popular here. There are quite a bit of public hunting lands that I hunt quite a bit. Beaches: Summerville is about 30-45 minutes from the beach. We have some beautiful beaches here and sometimes surf (thanks Hurricane Matthew!! ) Mountains: We are about a 3.5-4 hour drive to the closest mountains. Now, I say mountains, but don't expect out-west mountains. Blue Ridge Mountains. Beautiful, just not the Rocky Mts. All in all, Charleston is a great place to live and work. There is a ton of opportunity for work here. However, I'm sure it is a very different place from Idaho (never been there so I can't be 100%). We certainly don't have the scenery that comes with Idaho living. To sum it up: We have great beaches, great food, great schools, nice folks, so-so drivers, and nice weather (excluding mid-summer...yuck). Send me a PM if you have any other questions, or post here if you prefer!
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Haha! That coffee maker is crucial to starting the day lol. I think it came off so easily because the seal of the gear box blew at the pitman arm so it just puked PS fluid all over it and it soaked in that all night haha. It definitely takes a lot of editing, but it is really fun making videos like that!
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Thanks!
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Hey yall! Since it is somewhat relevant to our trucks, I thought I'd share my vlog post for today about replacing my steering gear box on my '99. It is definitely not meant to be an in-depth DIY tutorial or anything, but thought it might help someone who runs into the same repair in the future. Enjoy (or not )! Mods, if this should be posted somewhere else lemme know!
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http://www.genosgarage.com/product/ffk98599/fuel-system-accessories-replacement-parts I run this because I don't have any FASS/Airdog system. Just a good ole Airtex LP. Is the issue on your '99 or '02?
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I had a very similar problem to the OP. Turned out that the fuel heater element o-ring had gone bad and started leaking there and caused air to leak in there. The o-ring is easy to replace, but I wanted any excuse to get rid of that filter housing so I got the fuel filter kit from Geno's Garage that accepts the screw-on filters.
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250,000 on bone stock 47RE. Still going and I really hope I didn't just jinx myself. Put an Edge EZ at ~220,000. This truck has never really towed anything like a 5th wheel or something that heavy. I know I'm probably on borrowed time
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Common symptoms: A/C blows cold for a bit but then you hear a "thud" sound and your cold A/C is now blowing hot air out of the vents. When A/C is on and you change the temp control from cold to hot and back to cold, the air doesn't return cold but rather stays hot. It is possible that it is an issue with the blend door, or in this article's case, the blend door spacer servo. It is a ~$17 part depending on where you get it; Blend Door Spacer Servo p/n 5012923AB. The steps to replace this little part are simple, but the execution can be frustrating/tricky. You'll need: New blend door spacer servo p/n 5012923AB Right angle phillips head (I actually just used a bit with small pliers, but anything to get in a very small space will do) Box cutter or sharp knife Flashlight is also helpful Procedure: It is important to note that this procedure assumes that the blend door actuator is working properly. Firstly, you will need to remove the blend door actuator, which is located on the passenger side under the dash at the transmission hump (techincal term). Getting the blend door actuator out is kind of a pain in the rear. There are two phillips head screws holding it in place. One is super easy to get to and the other is not so easy (well for me at least). I ended up cutting some of the rubber mat and padding away to allow enough room to get in there with a phillips head bit and small pliers A right angle phillips head would've done the job, but I didn't have one around so I used what I had. Once the blend door actuator has been removed from the mounts, you'll need to reach up where the motor was and remove the spacer. Next, simply install the new servo exactly as the other was. This part only goes in one way, so there isn't much margin for error. Here you can see the culprit; the cracked spacer servo. Here you can see the blend door motor removed and the mat/foam cut away. That piece sticking up in the middle is where the Servo Spacer sits. The whole job can take anywhere from ~15-45 minutes depending on how fast you can remove/re-install that second phillips head screw. If both of those screws were easily accessible, the job would take maybe 5 minutes.
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I just replaced mine. My brakes were kicking back on me and I was losing power steering fluid like crazy. Get you a new hydroboost. Steering and brakes aren't something to contemplate on in my opinion.
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Thanks for sharing your experience. I just called http://www.dieselecmsource.com/281/Dodge-Ram%20Truck-1999-5.9L_I6_CUMMINS_DIESEL-ECM%20-%20Engine%20Control%20Module who is part of AutoModule Source and they asked me for clarification if I wanted a PCM or ECM. I looked them up and the are BBB Accredited. I am undecided if I am going to go the Dodge route or go with the company I just called. My gut is telling me to just go through Dodge, but it'd be nice to hear others' experiences before I pull the trigger,
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hm. Dodge said that they cannot flash an ECM. It sounds like my options are buy direct from Dodge and bite the bullet or buy from one of the online vendors for remanufactured ECMs. I found another online retailer, http://www.npddiesel.com/#!cummins-1-plugs-ecms/c4tx I just don't know if those are trustworthy or not. Guess I can sell a couple of guitars to make the purchase hurt a little less.
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I just called my local Dodge dealership, and they quoted me $2,070 for a reman'd ECM.
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Well, no such luck with the battery test. I reckon I'll start looking for an ECM. Too many signs pointing to a failing ECM. Does anyone have experience with any of the following websites for ECM's? -Dodge PCM Direct | ECM,ECU,ECC,TCM,Engine Control Units -AutoComputerExchange
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Since I get good fuel pressure while the truck is running, I'm not sure that is necessary? I guess for fuel filter changes that would be a good idea though! Hopefully I'll have this sorted out before the next fuel filter change
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Will do. Fingers crossed!
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Thanks for the tip! I have an auto trans. I will try to do that this afternoon after work (weather permitting).
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Yikes! So, my WTS light does not come on, but out of habit I wait for a bit before starting the truck. It starts fine, runs fine, and fuel pressure is good. I will try cleaning the connections. Where can I buy an EMC if I really do need one? Is this a good place?: http://dodgepcmdirect.com/productlist.php?make=dodge&model=Ram%20truck&year=1999 Or this one? :https://www.autocomputerexchange.com/catalogsearch/advanced/result?brand=72&model=144&year=56&engine=172&product_type=199&price[from]=&price[to]=&search=
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Lately, I haven't seen the wait to start light at all. I assumed it was due to 100*+ weather lol Failing ECM is no good. That's a lot of $$$$ isn't it?
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By the looks of the instructions, it is exactly as the OEM setup so it goes directly to the pump. http://www.airtexproducts.com/Resources/AIRTEXpdfs/X91205.pdf