jncornett

Great thread guys:thumb1:

bump on tv cable adjustment

Not to bad .... If the tranny wouldnt slip in 2nd ha ha and when the converter locks it will slip also if you press more than half throttle at about 16-1700 rpm.. well at about any rpm now lol but the goerend unit should be here by the end of the month or shortly after.. The one and only time that i beat on it after the sticks and turbo(prolly when the converter gave me the finger)from a stop at about 2/3 throttle i saw 36lbs of boost and was running 70 very quick as in crossing the bridge getting off the 4 lane from the off ramp to the of ramp west side to east side... The exhaust temps are about 100 degrees hotter than with the hy and tst j hook & boost at 70 mph is now 5psi not 15psi.. not crazy about the amout of haze and smoke i have now when the converter locks up under 45 mph.. Was hoping for a little better fuel milage with the injectors and turbo but none seen at this time still holding steady at 14.7 hand calculated, maybe after the tranny when its putting more tq to the ground that will get better .. hoping for 18 will be happy with anything better though..wondering if an edge unit will help mpg any or not previous owner had an ez and swore he got 18 city and 21 hwy... thats what the over head says now but its off..

Thanks ill go get the owners manual and see what i can find.. Its the last electrical gremlin i have to get out of the truck..I like the idea of disableing the truck if its broken into but I hate that it sounds the horn on unlock so often as if im breaking in..

Like the title says, does anyone else have a problem with the horn/security system activating when you use the key fob to unlock the door? Its starting to get old lol.. Usually hitting the unlock button again will stop the horn sounding.. It happens about every 10-20 cycles of the door locks and mostly after rainy humid weather..Cant find any water getting into the truck. I know the truck has the premium central timer module because it has heated seats.. Can the central timer module be reflashed or does it have to be replaced? Also im supposed to be able to unlock the door with the key; turn it in the unlock direction twice and disable the secure keyless entry.. I have tried it on both doors and as soon as the door opens the alarm sounds and the truck will only run for 5 seconds or so and dies due to security protcol.. I was told by another owner of a 01 that he had to unlock the truck from the passenger side to avoid theft protection when he locks his door cause he bought the truck with both fobs mia... not the case for me. im trying to get this figured out mainly because if i lose my keys and retrieve the spare i found under the truck and the fob isnt in the cab im hosed lol TIA

Thats exactly what i was looking at....Just didnt think to look at genos for it thanks.

awesome glad to hear this..i figured that since this truck is a 01.5 model that it would not be as free mod friendly as the previos years..... ---------- Post added at 10:46 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:39 AM ---------- for what its worth i am going to build a run-latch loop through 2 relays with a momentary push button for the mystery switch and break (un-latch disengage lock up) with a signal from the brake switch. so if the wife or step dad drives the truck and gets curious (Huh i wonder what that switch does)it will unlock as soon as the brakes are applied. and add a toggle to disable lockup while towing in town at low speeds to aid in less smoke from lugging. ---------- Post added at 10:49 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:46 AM ---------- Also what is the proper way to set tv cable? Is it like the older kickdown cables that you move the throttle to wide open and adjust the cable so it is fully extended at this point?

Well i guess the truck couldve come loaded with manual tow mirrors... The mirrors on the truck arent like any of the other tow mirrors on the second gens that i saw from the factory.. they are the third gen style fold out type thats why i thought po may have done this mod.. But it makes sence that if the tow package trucks had manual mirrors, that there wouldnt be a switch.... just boggled me to have every option available (leather, heated seats and power everything )except power mirrors.. Thanks for the input its greatly appreciated

thanks for the tips guys... ill decide whether or not to buy the tool or use a big screw driver.... crawling in and out from under the truck to get the bolts loose doesnt sound to fun to me as i will most likely doing this by my self on an off day from the fire house while everyone else is at work....

Awesome, hopefully he will chime in.

cool thanks thats how i did the vp...dont know why i didnt think of that

Just saw this thread and the comp is one of the upgrades i've thought about making when i get my tranny in....But i do have a question does the comp boost fool? i read different opinions on this..

I have an idea to build a little set up for locking and unlocking the converter on my truck and would like to know if anyone knows if switching (opening)the signal wire that locks the converter so it cant lock will throw codes and put the truck in limp mode.. Tired of the converter locking at low speed and not unlocking until i apply half throttle or more.Its a pain after the injector / turbo upgrade (lots of smoke). I installed the tunnel ram at the same time as the turbo it is supposed to help out with smoke... if it does Id hate to see the cloud it would leave if it wasnt there lol.Could be that the tv cable needs to be adjusted but not familiar with the process.

Any one els have a slt+ truck with manual mirrors? Im pretty sure the previous owner may have removed them to add the manual towing mirrors. Just cant imagine the truck being leather power everything heated seats and manual mirrors... If I decide to go to electric mirrors where can the switch for the mirrors be purchased other than the dealer.

Hey guys I have a goerend tranny on the way it should be here some time by the end of the month/first of the month...how big of a pain is it to do without the barring tool?

Just to pick everyones brain....I just discovered that my a/c clutch engages on every position of the vent selection dial on the dash and only goes off when you turn that dial to off... Ever here of this? know of anything to check for? not an a/c guru at all I never mess with them. but with all the other problems this truck has had I might as well jump in and see if i can fix this too. Any thing I can unhook to make it not work till im ready for it or get it fixed? by the way its a 2001 auto truck. Thanks in advance

Just wanted to say thanks again and let you guys know i got the truck running and back on the road today... long list of new parts... lift pump ad100, ecm,pcm, both sent out for repair..iat and map sensors replaced. timbo apps, and last but not least a new ip.. not complaining though i figured i would end up investing 2K into this truck to get it on the road so im am happy.. it cost a little more then i hoped but all is good

Thanks for the heads up I ended up taking the engine harness out of the truck; those grounds on that welded termial were absolutely horrible!!! At first look I checked them it looked clean but it was so corroded it was brownish orange... not white, green or any color ive seen battery grounds change too from corrosion... Had to remove 2" of wire to get to clean copper... new ring terminals and some solder took care of that along with a new bond to the ground cable directly to the grounding post on the body.. I sent my ecm out for repair and something didnt sit right with me.... so i took the engine harness out all of the wire for apps were intact. in fact all of the wires were intact except 1 signal ground that was broken at the splice in the harness near the ecm I got it all back together waiting on tne ecm should be home no later then friday... the map sensor has me boggled and the oil pressure sender as well although they were both ecm problems still puzzled me...Map had good 5 volts good sensor groung and had 4.8 volts on the signal wire unhooked from the sensor( checked before ecm was removed from the truck). definate short and the oil sender was giving voltage and working fine but was throwing a code prolly the ground issue I also found the grid heaters were sticking on for a while. I unhooked them for the time being I ll fix them this spring.. I also replaced the batteries they needed it... Thanks again to every one who offered help.

Yeah that was the first thing I checked they were clean and tight. to be honest I was suprised there wasnt any acid damage under it..I talked to a couple of different people who are 90% sure the new apps will take care of the problem (bluechip, tst,and a guy i trust at the dealer 40 miles away).. Im still puzzled as to why troubleshooting guide suggested i shuld see resistance on those wires that wasnt there and said they were shorted to ground yet they didnt have continuity to ground.. it has me confused because it just happened all the sudden. Really leads me to believe its electronics to blame somewhere. It did white smoke and ran very rough for about 30 seconds when it started today after cleaning grounds and clearing the code; as soon as i hit the go stick the engine light came back on. On another note the scan gauge II says i only have 1 code the key trick still shows all of the codes posted at the begining of this post.. I thought that was strange they are all low voltage codes exept the map code... Is that typical that the cluster says one thing and the scanner says something else or is that another sign that the ecm /pcm may be done.

I used this to start trouble shooting.. DTC P0122: ACCELERATOR POSITION SENSOR SIGNAL VOLTAGE TOO LOWDescriptionAccelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) voltage is monitored when engine is running. DTC may be stored iflow voltage is detected on APPS signal circuit or low voltage is detected between Engine Control Module(ECM) and Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Possible causes are: defective APPS, defective ECM, defectivePCM, or defective connectors or wiring.Testing1. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using scan tool, check for ECM and PCM DTCs. If DTC P0122 isstored in both ECM and PCM, go to next step. If DTC P0122 is not stored in both ECM and PCM, go tostep 8 .2. Turn ignition off. Disconnect APPS sensor connector. APPS is located on bracket, just above fuelinjection pump. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using DVOM, measure voltage betweencylinder block and terminal No. 5 (Dark Blue/White wire) on APPS connector. If voltage ismore than 4.5 volts, go to next step. If voltage is 4.5 volts or less, go to step 7 . I had 5 volts to ground here on to step 3 3. Turn ignition off. Ensure APPS connector is still disconnected. Measure resistance between terminal No.4 (Black/Yellow wire) and terminal No. 5 (Dark Blue/White wire) on APPS connector. If resistance isgreater than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or less, repair short between Dark Blue/Whiteand Black/Yellow wires. The Black/Yellow wire is the sensor ground circuit. no resistance and no short that i can find 4. Ensure APPS connector is still disconnected. Disconnect ECM connector. ECM is located on driver's sideof engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Measureresistance between ground and terminal No. 3 (Light Blue/Black wire) on APPS connector. If resistanceis greater than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or less, repair short to ground in LightBlue/Black wire. no resistance and no short that i could find 5. Ensure APPS and ECM connectors are still disconnected. Measure resistance between ground andterminal No. 5 (Dark Blue/White wire) on APPS connector. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, go to nextstep. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair short to ground in Dark Blue/White wire. no resistance cant find a short to ground, no continuity to ground 6. Turn ignition off. Ensure APPS connector is still disconnected. Reconnect ECM connector. Measureresistance between terminal No. 3 (Light Blue/Black wire) and terminal No. 4 (Black/Yellow wire) onAPPS connector. If resistance is greater than 5 ohms, replace APPS. If resistance is 5 ohms or less, repair short betweenLight Blue/Black and Black/Yellow wire. The Black/Yellow wire is the sensor ground circuit. no resistance no continuity to ground cant find a short 7. Ensure APPS connector is still disconnected. Disconnect ECM connector. ECM is located on driver's sideof engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Using DVOM,measure resistance in Dark Blue/White wire between terminal No. 5 on APPS connector and terminal No.31 on ECM connector. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, replace ECM. If resistance is 5 ohms or more,repair Dark Blue/White wire. no resistance soo it looks like i need an ecm.... this is as far as i got today between rain showers i will try to finish the last 5 tests friday... any thoughts....:confused: I ordered the replacement apps sensor from m1973m page it will be here in a few days.. figured it couldnt hurt 8. Turn ignition off. Disconnect PCM connectors. PCM is located at passenger's side rear corner of enginecompartment. Measure resistance between cylinder block and terminal No. 23 (Orange/DarkBlue wire) on PCM connector C1. This is the APPS signal wire and goes to terminal No. 28(Orange/Dark Blue wire) on ECM connector. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, go to next step. Ifresistance is 5 ohms or more, go to step 10 .:confused:

thanks for the heads up

Hey guys got the truck home pulled the edge ez off cleared the codes..... All of the codes cleared but apps and map sensor stopped by the dealer and got a map sensor ouch!!! The map code is now gone and I guess its a trip to cummins tomorrow for the apps.. Little over an hour drive but they are about $200 less than the dealer none of which has one in stock within a 50 mile radious... I checked around the wireng a little but my gut says just replace it.... Its prolly time at 165kish miles.. I presume the ez took a dump and created the low voltage problem..Could have sworn he told me it happened while he was driving but today he said he started the truck to leave put it in gear and thats when the check engine light came on... none the less im keeping my fingers crossed that ill have her on the road for about $600 instead of $1500 thanks everyone for your help.

Not yet going to finish up the deal on tuesday and throw it on a gooseneck and bring it home.... I hope to get started on it tuesday afternoon. I really hope its something simple like a fuse or loose dirty grounds time will tell...Although i did find out it has an edge ez, remote start and aftermarket head lights That i missed on my first pass around the truck.. the ez may have caused the map code through some research on other forums i apears a blown iod fuse will cause the voltage codes.... I dont know about the apps yet I really hope shes just in limp mode... But I feel a VP swap in the near future.. last one took an hour and fourty five minutes on a friends truck this summer.. I hope to knock a little time off this one lol. Thanks for checking in on me ill post what i find when i have it home and get started haha guess its time to get the scan gaugeII back out of the box to clear these codes... By the way will it clear/read the pcm codes? I got it shortly before selling my 05 and really havent used it to its potential.

awesome thanks for the heads up.... I kinda thought the toaster fired up and maybe the alternator wasnt putting out the voltage and or the batteries were weak.. they apear to be the same brand guessing replaced at the same time.. although the truck sat for a month and started tonight for the first time without hesitation..

Thanks for the quick replies.. the previous engine had a problem with one of the cylinders... rings.... wrist pin.... idk ...all the owner could tell me was the brass thing in the cylinder broke and since they were in there he had a complete rebuild/ freshen up done to the whole engine it truly runs great...so im confused and i hope i havent made a bad choice in commiting to buy this truck..