lcattin

It was easy to rebuild. I used a Weller gun to solder the brush leads in.

Got the starter kit with contacts and brushes today and got it rebuilt and installed. This truck has never cranked over this fast in the 4 years I have owned it. Thanks to everyone who offered advice and guidance to help me get this done. Now all I have to do is change the heater core. That's for another day.?

Thanks for the tips. I have it removed and torn down. It is really dirty inside and I think the brushes are sticking a bit so I ordered the Larry B kit with brush kit included. I don't think this starter has ever been apart in 365K miles. Should take of things. I'll update when I get it done.

Ok. Re-tightened the connections and not much help. Also found the tag that showed that it is a Denso. Time for rebuild.

If I remove the starter how can I tell if it is original Denso or Cummins?

Thanks for the help guys. I ran across the Larry B website the other day so now I know that is the way to go.

I have a 1999 Dodge 1 ton Cummins with 2002 engine showing 365K on the ODO. The starter seems to be spinning too slow. Voltage regulator was out on the alternator so that was replaced. Batteries were 4 years old and store checked them failing their testing so they were replaced. The starter speed hasn't changed with the new alternator and batteries. The question is, do I get a reman starter from O'Reilly or AZ, or rebuild the starter that I have? The rebuild kit would be a little cheaper but more labor intensive. Please weigh in with you opinions on the best way to go. Thanks, Les

I have replaced the rear sensor. I have not done the fronts due to the fact that they are a bit expensive and the brakes do work so it hasn't been a priority. I certainly get tired of looking the red and amber light all the time on the dash though. I have been through the relay harness twice and have not found anything wrong with the wiring. I will look again.

Alternator charging voltage is 14.2 and with my meter the AC voltage showed .02 and less. Positive leads are directly to the battery. Negative lead on drivers side is directly to the battery and on the passenger side to one of the fender bolts. Grounds from motor to body seem to be solid. Didn't touch the glass on the bulbs. I cannot say that they didn't touch the truck though while installing them in the housings. (didn't want to take the housings out of the truck to change) I wish there was a way to log the voltage off the alternator while driving to see if the regulator is letting voltage spikes through the system. The reason I wonder is that since February I have replaced several headlight bulbs, a lift pump, and since I have owned this truck the ABS light will come on when it is warmer outside. When the temp stays under 45 degrees the ABS is fine and works. Also if I remove the harness and hook the headlight up to factory setup I don't have any problem with blowing bulbs.

No, they are solid in the housings and housings are tight as well. Although the Interstate I have to drive to work is rougher from the winter than most dirt roads around here in Arizona.

Last time I checked charging was a bit over 14 and they are lasting a week or less. I will check charging again this weekend.

I picked up a set of aftermarket sport headlights and built the harness from the info on this site. They work great except for the fact that I have started blowing headlight bulbs. I have been using Sylvania and Wagner bulbs. Are these brands just not heavy duty enough for the voltages directly off the battery's? Last week the low beam elements in the 9007 bulbs both burned out. I replaced them both and this week both high beam elements in the 9007 and 9004 on the passenger side went. I am about ready to go back to the OEM housings and just the 9004 bulb on each side. Only problem is that I tossed the old housings as they were in real bad shape. Anyone have any ideas?

Great discussion on brakes. Looks like I will have to get the rotor that is running out, trued back up. I just need to find some place in my area that has a machine heavy enough to do the job. Most places just have the lightweight machines and can't handle the larger hubs.

I just picked up a new set of pads from my local Oreilly's tonight. They are a good bunch of guys there and several are mechanics so I seem to get some good info. They told me tonight that the ceramic pads do not work well on the 1 ton trucks and definitely cause hot spots on the rotors. My rotors are not cheap. It is 2wd and it has the large cast hub and rotor combo about $185 each so I don't want to tear them up. I had another set of stiffer front shocks here and installed them. Seems to have more front end stability now and not as much bounce when breaking. I am going to try the new pads first and if I still feel the problem then I may have the one rotor that is running out .007" turned. Hopefully I can put this to bed so I can get back on my Troopers head gasket project. I've never run across head bolts that were so hard to remove. Thanks for the help guys.

Yes, slightly.

I hope someone can shed some light on this issue for me. On my 99 3500 2wd last year I put all new brake hardware on the truck. Rotor/hubs, calipers, pads and this weekend had to put a new drum, wheel cylinder and shoes on one side in the rear. What happens is that just recently the truck started shaking, bouncing when applying brakes from a speed above 50 or so. Yesterday I pulled the front wheels and checked the rotor runout and the passenger side is only about .001" but the driver side is right at .007" runout on the face. Also looks like some hot spots on both rotors also. I put high end pads on the truck. Will the cheaper pads run cooler? Is that enough to cause the problem that I am seeing? I can feel it in the steering slightly also.

Got the replacement Airdog from Pureflow and it is running great again. Thanks for all the advice. I have not tried the alternator AC check yet. I do not know if my meter is sensitive enough. And it has not thrown another P1689 code. As soon I Pureflow the serial of the failed lift pump the sent one right. I had to pay the extra $68 to get it second day delivery though. They didn't even ask for the old one to be returned.

Thanks. I will talk with Pureflow tomorrow and see about getting a warranty replacement on the way. For some reason the lift pump just quit. I went out this morning and unplugged the pump and then made a direct connection to the battery to verify that it wasn't in the truck wiring and the pump wouldn't make a sound so its definitely DOA. It'll be running by next weekend.

That does make me feel a good bit better. The truck isn't going to move though until a new lift pump arrives. Not taking any more chances. Back to work on the Isuzu Trooper for now. Thanks

Thank you Mike. I have been thinking that I should do that anyhow. The lift pump failed and I was driving in very heavy traffic in Phoenix, AZ pulling a car I just picked up. it was at slower speeds so I didn't notice it for a long time. I think I drove about 80 miles or so without it. I am sure it didn't do the injection pump any good but it will still start and run. The lift pump is an Airdog FRRP and is under warranty so I am waiting to hear from them while working on my new (to me) SUV.

Lost lift pump and this morning I have the p1689 code. Truck still starts but guess the airdog took out the injection pump also. I think that it is just barely under warranty. Ill have to check.

The Isspro gauges are very good gauges. I live about 100 miles north of Phoenix and have found that the exhaust temp gauge is very handy in these mountain climbs. I have a manual trans so don't have the trans temp gauge. I put a fuel pressure gauge in place of that. I think that is the most important gauge in my truck. Mine are mounted in the A-Piller mount and work nicely in that position. Takes a bit of itme to get it all installed though. You will be happy with them when finished.

I am having the exact same problem with my harness. Has anyone come up with a fix for this. I actually exploded one of my bulbs with both filaments on at the same time. On coming drivers didn't like it either.

This drum was so distorted on the outside of the casting that at 68 to 70 the whole truck would just shake and the door panels would rattle. So Glad to have it fixed.

Oops. This was supposed to be in the 24 valve forum if someone would like to move it. Sorry.