Nekkedbob

I have a 1998.5 and have owned my truck for 13 years and only activated the RWAL twice and it didn't work both times. I now have a ABS light on and changed the sensor on the rear end with on joy. I have had it to all of the dealers within 100 miles of my house and it appears that their DRB111s can talk to it but are not functional enough to read the abs module or reset the tire size ( all if them looked really beat). My first question is there a way to determine if the module in the dash is bad or the hydraulic unit under the hood is bad. The second question is only because I am leaving on a 5000 mile trip in 8 days and I would like to kill the ABS light on the dash and still have the brake light in the dash functional along with the speedometer. My speedometer is still working and I have never seen it drop out so I don't think that I have a broke wire to the sensor. My third question is there a way to kill the power to the hydraulic unit under the hood to keep it from activating other then unplugging it from the harness. I am 70 years old and learned high performance driving before ABS and have no problem with it not working for this trip but don't like to leave things broken. \

Put the old style one in my 94 and loved it. When I bought my 98 ten years ago it was one of the first things that I put in it.

The sport head light was what I thought about first but the clear ones on my 2005 do so good was why I am asking about them. I wanted to stay with the halogens mostly because I can find them where I am at and most truck stops when I travel. I did look at projectors but still reading reviews on them and its seem to be real cheap or too expensive. I would like to hear about anybodies experiences with them.

That is why i am asking. I have read many reviews that talk about the the poor pattern that some have. As of now I am looking at these but cant find a review on them. https://www.carid.com/1998-dodge-ram-headlights/lumen-euro-headlights-646483160.html?parentsubmodel[]=SUBMODEL|2500

I do most of my night driving in a 2005 dodge caravan with the clear lens and it does so much better then my truck . What I am hoping is that the clear lens will match them.

I need to replace my headlights as I have polished them far to many times and would like some real world experience from people that have used them. I am in a budget but don't want the cheapest out there. I have about 250 buck to blow and don't want to do it twice. What I have decided on is the clear lens euro style with halogens. I have spent far to much time reading forums and searching the internet and it is just overwhelming . The biggest deal is that they need to be adjustable from the front and if two piece where the adjuster moves only the headlight is any better then one piece. I don't drive my beloved truck at night very often because I live in a high deer population area and we all know how good the stock lights are. Thanks

Here is the one that I am looking at. https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Circuit-Breakers/dp/B000KOVC12/ref=sr_1_5?crid=O8BHWPQ7YLOV&keywords=buss%2Bmrcb&qid=1682022011&sprefix=%2Caps%2C329&sr=8-5&th=1

I was looking at a Bussman 150 amp unit. Some of the testing on Youtube it was the only one that did not get warm to hot under heavy load.

For those of you that did the mod what brand of circuit breaker did you use and have you had any problems with them. I am finishing off mine and also modding my travel trailer to use lithium batteries and wanted to use the same style so I can use it as a disconnect.

Look for a adjustable Hobbs switch. About 9 years ago I found one at Summit Racing but I dont remember the number. The one that I got as I remember it was adjustable from 8 to 16 pounds and I set mine to turn on at 10 and off at 12 @ pound ( dead band ) .

Well I got a different thermostat from a Peterbilt dealer today and it looked like a stant but was a 180 degree unit so I didn't take it and they don't spec a 190 degree for the motor that the parts guy could find. I am waiting on one from Napa. I found a good parts man finally that can dig deeper in their catalog then any one else that I have seen. I should see the new one by Thursday as it was coming from Tennessee.

From what Ive read the early 24 valves had a real oil pressure gauge. I know that the graduations are useless but on the early ones that the dealers didn't get questioning oil pressure they do go up and down with temp and RPM. I have got mine hot and if done over a longer period of time the temp gauge does read as close as can be expected. I am still running my old thermostat until I find the correct one. I still have the one that I removed 6 years ago that was working (stashed under my seat with spare sensors and filters). I have a different ones coming from Cummins and NAPA Tuesday and I will find out if they are correct. And just a FYI I know that Ford was doing the dummie gauge as early as the 70s on the vehicles that had oil pressure gauges. I had 2 different trucks made in the 70s and after on oil pump shaft sheared in off in my first one I got digging deeper then I wanted and found that it was a common thing.

not a problem . You have some good info.

And back on subject. I installed one of the 12 valve thermostat late yesterday and went for a drive of about 35 miles on the 2 lanes around me. The thermostat did not open until 200 degrees and stayed open untill 178 degrees and swung up and down for the hole trip reading off my Scangage2 that is mounted on my dash. This morning I installed a different 12 vale thermostat that I had but not been installed. On this trip I also went on the freeway ( 70 MPH) and it did hold the temp steady at 70 MPH but but varied just the same below 55 MPH. I thought that maybe I screwed something up so I reinstalled the old thermostat and everything is back to normal. Something that I did notice with the second 12 valve thermostat was that the dash temp gauge reaction was so slow that if that was your only gauge you would never see much temp change. Because I have gotten so used to the Scangage2 the only dash gauge that I look at is the oil pressure.

The thermostat was still working but I was noticing a slight rise in temp and a bigger swing in temp so being I had it apart i decided to change it. The OE thermostat appears to be a 180 degree so I will run it for the next month and see how it does. If I decide that I don't like it I will try the new larger one and see how it goes.

I finally got the Cummins OE thermostat and it looks way different. I did a coolant flush,water pump, thermostat and removed the radiator to clean it. I am happy to say that it didn't need it after 6 years with MPM breather mod. As you can see the one on the left in the picture below is the one I removed, the middle one is what is available from parts houses and the one on the right is the OE. So far it looks good but it is only 70 degrees out today but it should be in the 80s by wed and I am going the hookup my trailer and find a good hill and see how it does.

Called genos today and found the oem cummins tstat so after talking to the rep I ordered it. Looks completely different the what the parts house show in their database. I did test both of the tstats that I have and they both open the same amount at the same temp but the larger one flows way more when open. I will post a picture comparing them when it get here

I did check on years up to 2008 and they all show the same numbers but you get pictures of the small one and the big one. When I ask about the small one they said that the cant order them but for stant they both have the same manufacturer number. Per gates motorad and gates are just repackaged stant the other ones are not brands that I know so I chose to stay away from them. Tomorrow I will do a side by side test of the old one that I saved ( it did still work but I had the cooling system removed and drained so I replaced it). I plan to call genos tomorrow and see what the can do for me.

At all of the parts houses that I went to I had them go from 99 to 08 and got the same units. I did install one 7 years ago and got continuous fluctuations from 215 before it would open and a drop to 165 where it would close while driving down the road with minimal load. I too discovered that I have to ask for a 99 because of the midyear change from the 12 valve. I also had the dodge dealer tell me that my truck was built as a 12 valve and that motor was installed by someone but on the build sheet it said 24 valve and was built in may and there paperwork said that the 12 valve was stopped in dec. of 97. I did still have my old one in its replacement box under my seat with my spare parts and the parts house data base show it as the correct number as the one from rockauto. The one from rockauto did have a picture of the correct one but that was not what was in it. After some thought I was wondering if anybody has run the 12 valve unit and did it work correctly and the one that I got 7 years ago was sticking untill it got hotter then it should and then popping wide open

Just today I had Advance auto order in both stant and motorad and they both were 12 valve style with the 24 valve number on the box. The one from rockauto was the correct number but still not the 24 valve style. I guess the next step is to start calling genos or dap.

I am planning the do a cooling system maintenance on my 1998.5 and have not been able to find the correct thermostat for it . The ones that I have been handed are the large one for the 12 valve. I did try one about 7 years ago and had such wild swings in temp that I thought I had done something wrong. After much thought and trouble shooting I found that the thermostat did not look like what I removed ( my fault I did not compare them when I removed the old one). I went back with the old one and finally found one that matched. Here I am 7 years later and the only one that I can find is for the 12 valve and in their data base it said that that is the only one fits from 89 to 09 which I know is wrong.The stant pn 14289 or 46289 for the heavyduty but I could not contact anyone at stant but I did contact a gates tech support and he said that stant makes theirs but he has not got back to me yet. The picture shows the difference with the one on the left is the correct one. I have been to every place I can think to find one including cummins dealers within a 100 mile raduis and they all pull the 12 valve one. How are the rest of you finding yours. I even ordered one from Rockauto that had the correct picture but when it showed up it was the 12 valve.

Well it looks like I will find out how hard they are to remove next spring at the local junk yard. Ill drag one home and see if I can disassembly it and service it or tell if it works different.

When I checked the residual pressure I had drove about 25 miles total in town and parked in the driveway which is flat and let it idle when I got the wrench. I did check everything in the parking brake system and went so far as to even install a helper spring on the equalizer just encase the parking brake pedal was not releasing the cable. Yes MPM my only next thing is to find one in a junk yard and start to compare measurements. I would not be surprised if I find that a replacement component out of spec . One other thought was does any body know where I can find a parts breakdown or assembly instruction for the parking brake pedal assembly as that is one thing that I nor any of the other shops did not take apart because it appeared to work fine. My truck is now put away for the winter because they are now salting and deicing the roads and would really hate to need to buy another one before I die.

I agree that this should not happen. I have owned many cars and pickups since the 70s and most of them have had self adjusting brakes with no problems. My thought was to disable them and see if the problem reoccurs without removing the parts ( I tend to miss place things and then have to replace things only to find them far to late ) . My first thought was I did something wrong and that is why it has been done by other shops with full history when done. Looking at pictures and diagrams it appears that if I reverse the lower spring ( this keeps the pawl from moving) and adjuster should do it. Per two different shop all hardware has been replaced including parking brake cables and adjusted correctly.

I do have that valve on the rear and I lowered the rear for my 5th wheel and that valve sets at it max but I only did that 4 years ago. I have cracked the bleeder and it has on pressure after brakes have been applied and released. My trailer is small and only has 800 pounds tongue weigh.