Nekkedbob

Just a FYI I have been doing brake jobs since the 60s and lost count many years ago. When I said brakes overheated both me and the other mechanics could not visibly see which one or if both did it. When I bought my truck I could not tell that they had been overheated because I live in a fairly flat area. On at 400 mile trip I had to use the brakes more then I like and when they got hot I had a bad shudder ( steep down hill in a panic stop from 60 MPH with 600 pounds on the bed) that would go away when they cooled off. I was taught on drum brake (note when I said I started doing brake jobs) and just in case I missed something I have made use of and asked and bothered many other mechanics. And yes it has been checked for residual pressure and none has been found. Maybe I am wrong but if it is a hydraulic problem I would think it would rear it ugly head a little more often then mine has. I did have this problem on a 68 ford in the 70s and took the self adjusters out. That was the cable and pawl that MPM mentioned and the problem went away. Mine has a rod, lever and a pawl that I did not want to remove until I could confirm that it was the problem. I also want to say I was taught to drive with the motor and transmission and only use the brakes minimally. I also have spent most of my working life looking through a windshield of cars, pickups ( on site field service ) and big rigs (owner/operator ) and because I owned them I learned to drive to make them last because I had to fix them when the broke or wore out.

After more research I think that I can install both bottom spring and the adjuster backwards it may solve my problem. I would have to use the other adjustment hole but I don't mind. After I did the first brake job I thought that I my have done something wrong and couldn't tell what it was so I sent it to my trusted local shop and he went through it and adjusted it a little tight but I couldn't tell when I left. 50 miles later that day the brakes are dragging and smoking. He came out (50 miles to his credit) and backed them off and when I got it back to his shop neither he or me could find anything done wrong so he put it back together with the brakes adjusted loose.Lasted just over3 years almost 4 and overheated on a trip again. I then found a local shop that only did diesel pickups and had them do the brakes again and I told him to adjust them loose. 3 years later in a trip they overheat again in Wy. Buy the time I caught it the drums were warped so I backed them off and went the rest of the way to Or. The shop in Or. did the 4th brake job and I asked them to go completely through it again to see if they could find the problem. New drums, shoes, hardware. parking brake cables and here I am again. Im old enough to have owned many cars without self-adjusting brakes that I don't mind crawling under it once a year to adjust them.

When I and the shops did the adjustment everything looks to be set right but as i said the adjustment creeps up ( it takes months ) to the point they drag which they didn't when first installed.

When I bought my truck about 8 or 9 years ago the rear brakes had been over heated and would shudder when the rear drums got hot. I have replaced the shoes and drums once and had 3 different shops do rear brakes including drums , shoes, Ebrake cables hardware and had them check everything that go with it. The last time was in Oregon ( I live in Wi.) when I was in vacation in Oct. when they overheated on the way there and again they have self adjusted back to the point that they drag and the pedal has moved up to the top of the travel. I have 2 question. 1 Can anyone think what else to check. 2 What components do I have to remove to get rid of the self adjusting and just make it manual adjust like they were years ago.

My thought was that I would just put it on the shelf as is. I don't think of it as a upgrade except for the water cooling. I just talked to HiTechTurbo and he was going to check with Holset if it was a drop in including the wheels ( I would use my hot and cold sides ) and if I wanted one what it would cost vs a stock one.

This may be a mute point now because the seller just tripled the price. So here are some pictures that might help. Depend in how you go about water cooling it sounds like it might be the way to go to help them live longer.

I just found a HX35g turbo for sale cheap. I was damaged in storage with zero miles. I cant find it anywhere so I cant check the specs and from what I have found it is water cooled and was a gas application. Only the cold side outlet is damaged and was wondering if I might be able to just use the center section as a replacement for myHX35W when it goes.

Sorry for the delay but here are the pictures of my power points. The one on the left is a Hubbel mini twist lock for any high current items like my inverter ( only 200 watt) and if needed I have a extra automotive aux ( cigarette lighter ) adapter setup for it. I am planning on installing one more dual USB to the left of the Hubbel in the spring. They are always hot and I have not noticed if the battery is any lower then normal after sitting for 30 days.

Sorry but my truck is not where I can get to it but I will post a picture when I get it home hopefully on friday.

I mounted 2 more dual usb ports on the on the most vertical place of the cup holder near the shift boot. One dead center facing the seat and one just to the passenger side. There is a fair amount of room so you can install it by removing the rubber boot. I also installed a small Hubbel mini twistlok for my inverter when I need it.

I looked into nations and a couple other ones and they all say I can just have them overnite the parts but where I stay when on the road doesn't have a address and I don't think they will deliver " down dirt road X 40 miles on right ". I have had times that I unloaded my off-road/on-road motorcycle and made a 180 mile round trip to a parts house to get on the road again. I am also wondering what I might have to change to make a bosch work other then the field connector. During my time on the forums I dont recall any posts about bosch problems but I can see some people that had problems with their alternator and just got a rebuilt unit and never knew what brand it was.

I have owned my truck for just over 7 years now and I do store it from Nov. to April. It is started only about 4 times during the winter just to keep the juices flowing ( i don't need to but it makes me feel good ). When it is removed from storage I disconnect the grid heaters and they might be connected when I take a trip in Oct. if the temp gets low enough to need them. My truck is not a daily driver and I only put about 10k miles on it a year including a 4k mile trip in Oct. so use of the grid heaters is minimal. When it was purchased it had a alternator from a small rebuilder that lasted me 5 years but I don't know when it was installed. The next one that I installed lasted 2 years! To me this is a problem that needs to be looked into ( I am disabled and I am doing the W_T mod at this time). Because I hit the road for up to 4 weeks during my trip I need it to be rock solid reliable and easily repaired by me when on the road. After talking to custom rebuilers I think that I should not reinstall a stock denso and from what I have read maybe install a bosch unit. Because I do travel in some desolate areas I need something that I can get fairly quickly so custom is out of the question in my mind. The more I think about it and being I really have not heard much bad about them I think the connectors will get changed and a bosch will be used. If anybody thinks this is a bad idea please sound off.

They way that it was explained to me was in automotive use during a heavy current draw ( like our grid heaters ) when the draw is turned off the voltage regulator doesn't react fast enough and causes a high voltage spike that can cause damage to electronics. Being we have 2 batteries this might not be a problem but as these trucks age and connections oxidize I can see it becoming a problem. The only way that it was described to me was it worked like a giant zener diode to clamp down any voltage above their rating. So far I havent found if this is true or at what voltage that is. One site stated that the breakdown voltage was 24 volts tho 36 volts and at that point the magic smoke has already escaped on a 12 volt system. This little adventure started about a week age when I checked my ripple voltage and noticed it was just above 40mv. When I went to get a new one and had them test it the test machine said it was good but when they printed out the results the values were far above a failed point. I took the new unit to 3 other parts houses and even with different looking testers none gave a print out that made sense and they all said passed. These were testers that I used 2 years ago with a lot of onfo and all voltage levels for pass and fail. All I can think of is that so many failed out of the box they up dated the software to stop the problem. I ended up talking to 4 custom alternator rebuilders and the " avalanche diodes " came up and I wondered if it was something that might be good thing.

As things are going I hope to have the W_T mod done by the end of the week

I like so many of us go through alternators. I was doing some research as to stop this problem and ran across a rectifier with Avalanche diodes. What little I can find about them is that is what the newer cars are using. From what I have found these will clamp the voltage spike caused by large current things like when the grid heaters turn off. What I have not found was the specs for the voltage that they clamp to or if they will help with the ripple that causes our problems. This is call out to anybody out there with more knowledge then me or better search results if these would be a good choice.

Yes the pre lift pump filter and the main filter mounted on the block It was the first thing I did as they had been on for about 20k miles.

I store my truck from Nov to March and this year when I took it out I noticed that the fuel pressure was dropping more the normal. I have had 2 separate times that I was letting it idle while unloading it I noticed that the idle sounded different. The last time it happened I was going back to move it and there was no lift pump pressure. I shut it down and then bumped the starter to see if the pump would run and it did with 17 pounds at a idle (18 to a dead motor). I have also noticed that the fuel pressure drops almost 2 pounds more this year under hard acceleration. Being that the pump has been on there for at least 7 years I just bought a new one ( fass ddrp 02). Changed pre and post filters and then the pump with no change. I took it for a drive again today and in 4th gear rolled WOT and when it hit 2900 RPM the fuel pressure dropped quickly to 10 PSI and I let up before got lower. I know that I don't have a sock on the fuel tank module because it was gone when I removed it 2 years ago because the float fell off. I am at a loss as what to do next other then a big line kit. The only other thing that I can imagine would be a IP going bad or is it normal to dump fuel pressure when you hit the defuelig RPM which I had never done before but it came up faster then I expected.

The reason that the larger tstat causes wild temp swings is that my 190 degree will not open at anything below about 198 and then temp is so high that it opens all the way dumping a large slug of cold coolant through the motor and cant close fast enough to keep it at temp. This happened with both tstats installed 3 years apart. The way it acted makes me think that when running down the road the flow pressure might be so great that it does not allow the large tstat to open when it should and when it generates enough force it slams fully open because temp has gone to high. When I was a owner/operator I was taught back in the 80 that it was not good to heat cycle a engine and dumping a slug of ambient coolant that fast has to cause a fair amount of stress and will shorten your engine life.

From what I have experienced and researched the one with the larger opening is for the 12 valve. I have installed 2 different ones and also got up to a 40 degree swings from them. I was at the local Napa just one week ago and they could no longer find a 24 valve thermostat with the small opening. They list the large one for all 2nd gens. I did find the correct one at Advance auto by Stant.

Be careful I just replaced mine with a Napa unit and they gave me one for the 12 valve. It caused really wide temp swings and would not settle down. I went back and asked for one like I took out and they could not find one as per their pictures. I had the same problem 3 years ago and they finally found one but the store was bought out and all of the old employees left. I ended up getting one at Advance auto that was a Stant. Here is a comparison with the 12 valve on the right.

Check around I know I saw a vendor that has 3rd and 4th gen mirrors with 2nd gen mounts.

As I recall it is a metric straight thread. A taper pipe thread will thread into it but with a oil gallery I wouldn't trust it . In noncritical use I have just used the tapered threaded pipe fittings .

Sounds like torque management kicking in. You will need to have it flashed as a 5 speed to get rid of it.

If it is the blend door actuator is the problem. It sounds to me you have a plugged heater core. I have had this on several vehicles and as a temp fix that has got me through the winter I did a back flush of the heater only. I pored vinegar in it and then flushed with hot water. I cant say this is a solution but has helped me.

I have never had a blow out but I have had up to 50% tread separation ( bulge on the tread ) when I noticed it. I did see one blow in front of me in the lane to the right and it stuck the split rim ring in the car door next to him along with blowing out the window. The tread glanced of the semi end dump box and sent it higher then the telephone poles into the other side of the freeway. I was past it by then so I don't know if it hit anyone.