Nekkedbob

Just a FYI ST tires are not rated for over 65 MPH. I found this out after having to replace at least one tire per trip from WI to CA. I pulled my small enclosed trailer for 14 years and never loaded heavier then 2000 pounds gross with 1500 pound rated tires. After questioning many tire shop techs one finally called the Goodyear factory rep ( I used what ever I could find on the road and 1/3 of them were Goodyears) and after some discussion he asked how fast I drive and I said right at the speed limit then he said thats the problem. Since I slowed down to 65 MPH the last set that was on it when I sold it had gone 5 years with on failures. As I recall Carlisle has a ST tire that is speed rated at 85 MPH and you can tell because it is molded right in the sidewall. I was a owner/operator and like to drive still to this day. I would leave central WI and be in CA in 2 1/2 days and after slowing to 65 MPH I could still make it in 3 days.

It sounds like a bad (high resistance) ground. I would go through all of the parking light grounds included the sockets you will most likely find a corroded one.

I have broken one spring in a stack on 4 different trucks and just went to a custom spring place and ordered just the broken one and restacked them. Some places will know what you need right off hand but others needed the spring in hand before they can help you.

Yes that is normal. After no electrical activity the latch will turn off (about 30 min.) You can check this by opening the driver side window and walk away for a 1 hour (it may be as short as 30 min.). When you come back to the truck reach through the window try to pull the seat belt without opening the door and it should be locked and the current draw should be nil.If you open the door the timer will restart.

I change mine when ever the fuel pressure drops a average of a pound or 2. Sometimes once a year but I have gone two years at about 10k per year.

Both of my 2nd gens had a rattle in the columns that turned out to be the bottom bushing. Open the hood and check the steering shaft for side to side play. There is a fix but I cant remember what it is called. Maybe some one can chime in.

If you turn on the wipers when the wipers are frozen to the windshield you end up welding the park switch and you lose the park position. The park function is related to the intermittent setting. If you are good enough you can sometimes open the motor housing and break it lose. I have done before this but only half of them survived.

On the trucks that I have the switch get hot I found that the switch spades and the plug had started to corrode. Most of them I had to replace both the plug and the switch because they were melted but I have gotten away with just cleaning them back to nice and shining.

Sorry to hear about that but take it easy for a while. I was layed up 2 months ago and not being able to do the things that you think need to be done is miserable. I am getting by and only doing what is needed although slower but being someone who is always done things my self it makes me crazy that I cant yet. Keep your spirits up and dont be ashamed to ask for help when needed, there are a lot of good people around and I am sure they would be happy to do what they can for you and MPMOM. Best wishes to you and thanks from all of us for all that you do. Nekkedbob

This last year mine was opening at higher temps then it did the year before. I decided to change it and NAPA gave me the one on the right in MPM post . Mine is a 98 and it was listed as that one. I started getting wild swings in temp ( late opening and late closing) of over 10 degrees swings. My mistake was not taking mine out and comparing them. Being that 98s had both 12v and 24v they gave me a 12v which is the one on the right. I went back with my original and asked for one for a 99 and I got the one on the left and it has worked perfectly since.

I have had three different vehicles that I just did a backflush of the core and if worked after just fine. I disconnected the heater core from the motor and ran some vinigar through it backwards and then ran hot water through it to flush it.

Your seat belt will continue to draw power when the door is open and for about 10 minutes after the door is closed. To test if it is the seat belt is causing a problem roll down the window, close the doors and walk away from the truck for 10 minutes. When you come back reach in the window without opening the door and try pulling the seat belt, if it doesn't come out its good and the draw for the seat belt will be gone. It is a small draw but I could see that after 3 days it could draw the battery down. I would say pull the fuse and look for any other draw that is there.

If your hitch has a MOPAR tag or sticker there is a TSB about the same crack problem. I just got mine done this year for free by dodge

And as I remember let the seal set for at least 4 hours before starting the engine or it might leak.

With the BHAF on mine I don't hear the turbo until I get above 10 PSI ,that only lasts until about 16 then quiets down until I hit 20 PSI and then starts to howl above 23 PSI

Mine has always had a ungodly howl above about 23 PSI and has done this for 5 years since I disabled the waste gate.

Both NAPA and Advance gave me the one on right but it was the lady put in 99 and I got the one on the left. The one on the left was the same as the one that was put in it 4 years ago from NAPA in Jackson Ca.

Dont forget that the qclb has a timer that keeps the seatbelts activated for up two 5 minutes after you close the door or when the door is open. To check for the draw open the driver side window, close the door then dont touch the truck for at least 5 minutes then reach in and pull one the driver side seatbelt. If the seatbelt is locked then check for a draw without opening the door. If the seat belt does come out you may have a bad seat belt controller under the center seat.

I took a pic. and you can see the difference. I thought that maybe a up date or a different manufacturer so I didn't question it. The flow has got to be twice the stock unit. The one on the right is the old one the one on the left is what 2 different parts houses gave me.

I found the problem! All the thremostats that I found did look a little different from what I had. While at the counter at Advance auto a lady behind the counter walked by when I was explaining to the other counter person what was going on. She took over from the first person and ask if it was a late or a early 98 and I told her a late. She pulled both and nether looked like what I had originally had. At that point she pulled one for a 99 and there it was just like I had. Went home and installed it and all is good. Flat road , 85 degrees out with the AC on right at 191, 195 up the steepest hill I can find locally never below 188.

The one from napa was the one that looks like MPM 190 but was listed as premium unit. So far I have asked for Stant and Gates both and the just list as house brands, no manufacturer. I had a interesting thing today . I crested a fairly steep hill at 189 and about half mile down the other side the temp hit 207 then dropped to 172 before it closed again and was at 198 at the bottom.

I all ready cleaned the radiator and installed MPM CCV breather that dumps at the back of the block and the radiator is still clean. Mine looked worse then that when I pulled it. When it was dirty the only time that I noticed a problem was pulling my trailer up hellish grade on highway 88 from NV. into CA.Just a FYI I replaced the radiator 4 years ago when I installed the thermostat and MPM CCV and had to reclean it in the spring because of a failed pvc joint.

I have worked on vehicles off and on since the late 60s, gas and diesel , air cooled and water cooled and haven't had this happen before. I did a coolant flush as it was due and changed the thermostat because it was running about 5 degrees hotter the last year. The first new thermostat that I installed was listed as 190 degree and it did not open until 207 and not close until 183. I filled the radiator through the thermostat hole as i normally do and topped off in the cap , let it run through open 2 cycles. All good . Took it out for a drive of 20 miles with short but steep hills and flats. The first thermostat was very consistently opening at 207 to 208 and closing 182 to 183. Any motor that I have worked on before never varied more than about 3 degrees after maybe 4 open and close cycles on flat road with it being 75 degrees out. I installed a second one that was a 190 by a different parts house and it is doing the same thing but opens at 197 to 198 and closes at any where from 177 to 182. The second one was driven about 135 miles with no change. I did install the old thermostat and all is well but it is a 190 that was installed 4 years ago and after I brought it out of winter storage this year it has been about 5 degrees over normal but very consistent. I have changed more thermostats then I want to remember and cannot remember a bad one out of the box more or less two in a row. The first one was from advance auto and the second one was a napa premium. Is this the new standard or am I the luckiest person in the world this week. My next move will be to go to cummins and just bite the bullet and pay the price unless someone can come up with a better way to go.

Years ago I remember that there was a hot and cold lash on engines . Mostly industrial engines that ran nonstop so they never cooled down and for mechanics that couldn't wait for a cold engine.

During the 9 years that I was a owner/operator I saw the results of 4 other turbo failures and I was the only one that caused minimal damage as all I had to do was clean the cross over tube and rebuild the turbo. The worst was the one that blew the cold side apart pulling a hill and took the side of the hood out and the one that the driver panicked and forgot to pull the emergency shut down so the engine just ran until it ran out of engine oil . Almost all of them required a rebuild when all was said and done. What worries me is that none of these gave any indication that there was a problem until they went ( no oil in the intake , no shaft play or no odd sounds until it was to late). With a auto as most of our trucks have a shut down sounds impossible but you might be able to limit it until it runs out of oil and with a manual with a good clutch sounds doable but I don't want to think about trying to stall one cruising at 70 MPH.